How long do primers last?

GT_80

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Messages
559
Reaction score
638
I have kind of an odd question- I know if primers are stored properly, they should last a very long time.

I have a bunch of resized/primed .28 special shells that have been in a poppycock popcorn tin with a tight lid on it for an unknown length of time. I got them with a pile of other reloading stuff that I bought from my sportsman’s club a few months back. Originally I was going to toss them because they 95% nickel cases, and I’ve heard you can’t reload nickel as many times as brass. But I sorted through them tonight, there has to be about 250 rounds of not 300… in todays environment, that’s like $25 worth of primers.

Do you think they’re still good? Should I throw a few in a revolver and see if the primers pop off? I don’t want to load them unless they work. I have no idea what kind of primers they are.

The can is pretty old, so I don’t know how long these have been sitting either…

C342B769-0298-4080-A482-5AB0AAAA74FC.jpg

06B7AEF0-7B1C-4226-A617-6D140189E5B4.jpg

E794E3BD-9637-448A-8599-B33F7671FBA9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Chances are there is nothing wrong with the primers. As I have said several times before in other contexts, just pick out some primed cases randomly, at least 10, and if they all pop, there is a statistically very high probability that all will fire.

As an example, let’s assume that 20% of the primers are bad. The probability that a random sample of 10 will result in all 10 firing is only 10%, or conversely, the probability of having at least one misfire out of ten trials is 90%. Firing 15 would provide even greater confidence, a 3.5% probability of 15 of 15 firing.
 
Last edited:
That’s what I was thinking. Wait till the wife and kids go out for a bit, put hearing protection on, and try a few :)
 
I'd just load a few for a test. Firing an empty case with a live primer will likely cause the primer to back out and may tie up the gun. If it does sometimes you can put a dowel down the barrel and hammer the primer back into the case. Or you can often just force the cylinder open. If you do it just load one at a time.
 
Last edited:
I'd just load a few for a test. Firing an empty case with a live primer will likely cause the primer to back out and may tie up the gun. If it does sometimes you can put a dowel down the barrel and hammer the primer back into the case. Or you can often just force the cylinder open. If you do it just load one at a time.

Yeah that’s not a bad idea either. I may just try one with just a primer to see- that would be quicker because my range is only open sundays right now because hunting season is open
 
Shoot inside an empty 2 liter soda bottle or an empty plastic milk jug. Makes very little noise. Primers will not back out.

Are we talking BB gun noise? Cap gun? .22? Just curious.

I have tons of 1 litre seltzer bottles so that’s not an issue for me
 
nickel brass

I don't understand, people are given 38 Nickel brass and won't reload it because it doesn't last as long as brass. If It is free, just load it until it cracks then throw it away. I'll bet 100% of those primed cases will go bang. I see no difference if they are in a sealed environment or in original packaging. I'm using old Remington primers that were shipped in the wooden packaging and they all go bang. If you are real worried keep them separate and when you are shooting pay attention for a squib and have a wood dowel handy.
SWCA 892
 
Think about all of the old military ammo still in existence now that will fire 100%. Use it for practice anyway because you surely want factory ammo for self defense.
 
As austintexas said - they're probably good. My oldest primers aren't in wooden trays, but they are dated December 1979.
As to the subject of plated versus non-plated .38 Spl. brass, I've literally worn the nickel off some cases, and they still haven't cracked or failed in any way - other than looking kind'a weird.
To relieve your concerns, I'd say load and shoot a few to be sure. Then when they all go bang, you'll not be worried about loading them with powder & bullets.

WYT-P
Skyhunter
 
Chances are there is nothing wrong with the primers. As I have said several times before in other contexts, just pick out some primed cases randomly, at least 10, and if they all pop, there is a statistically very high probability that all will fire.

As an example, let’s assume that 20% of the primers are bad. The probability that a random sample of 10 will result in all 10 firing is only 10%, or conversely, the probability of having at least one misfire out of ten trials is 90%. Firing 15 would provide even greater confidence, a 3.5% probability of 15 of 15 firing.

Best advice.

I've used many old primers of all types and have found them to be as reliable as new ones. I've also fired a lot of old ammo that worked like new stuff with one exception - a batch of WWII .30-06 ammo that was about one third no-fires. I suspect improper storage for decades may have been the problem.
 
I'm still using primers that I bought nearly 50 years ago and have made no great effort to store "properly", with no issues whatsoever.

I've heard the "nickel-plated cases split sooner" argument so often and from so many people whom I respect that I have to believe it has some validity, but my own personal experience is that there's no apparent difference. I have nickel .357 cases (Super-Vel, remember them?) that I've reloaded so many times the plating has just about worn off and they're still going just fine. I did have one batch of Remington .38 Special cases years ago where the plating started to flake off after a couple reloads, so I tossed them - but otherwise I just load nickel-plated interchangeably with brass, in several different calibers, and haven't had any problems.
 
I'm still using primers that I bought nearly 50 years ago and have made no great effort to store "properly", with no issues whatsoever.

I've heard the "nickel-plated cases split sooner" argument so often and from so many people whom I respect that I have to believe it has some validity, but my own personal experience is that there's no apparent difference. I have nickel .357 cases (Super-Vel, remember them?) that I've reloaded so many times the plating has just about worn off and they're still going just fine. I did have one batch of Remington .38 Special cases years ago where the plating started to flake off after a couple reloads, so I tossed them - but otherwise I just load nickel-plated interchangeably with brass, in several different calibers, and haven't had any problems.

I'm with you on not really seeing a difference with nickel cases. Most say they have trouble with them cracking but I have many nickel .38 cases (mostly Federal) that I've loaded so many times the nickel is worn off except around the base.

I keep my nickel cases separate. They are mostly held as reserve these days but I still load them when the Dillon and I are on a roll and in "load everything" mode.
 
I'm still using Alcan primers that I bought in early 1970's , dealer was having a close - out sale and they were dirt cheap.
Recently fired 9mm Luger ammo from WWII ... my Dad had several boxes stashed in his sock drawer with a WWII P-38 ... they all fired just fine .
Primers have a Looooong Shelf Life and even soaking in water doesn't seem to harm them , after they dry out they go bang !

Your primed shells ... load and shoot , I will bet a dollar to a dough-nut hole they all fire just fine !
Gary
 
I'm with you on not really seeing a difference with nickel cases. Most say they have trouble with them cracking but I have many nickel .38 cases (mostly Federal) that I've loaded so many times the nickel is worn off except around the base.

I keep my nickel cases separate. They are mostly held as reserve these days but I still load them when the Dillon and I are on a roll and in "load everything" mode.

I hate to go with the crowd unless they really know what they are talking about, but, I have to agree with them on the life of of nickel-plated brass. I've used it off and on for years in 9mm, .38 Special, .357, and .45 ACP. I generally get far fewer loads from it than unplated brass before the necks split. I'd guess half as many loads, but I've never counted. With rifle brass, I've only used it in .223 and .308. My results have been inconclusive.
 
Bricks currently on hand have price tags of $16.99, purchased 40 years ago, still going bang.
 
my 1970s and 1980s federals I got from a senior are even more accurate that current production
 
Back
Top