Sticky 22 cylinder

[fleabus101]

My kids shot my '47 Pre 17 22 yesterday.
Had some sticky extractions on some ammo.
What reamer aquire do any suggest to get and from who ? Brownell or Midwest ?
Thanks Randy. I figure to get one,, then put it out for members to holler it me, and pass it around to you guys to use for chamber cleaning/ reaming..
Best Randy..

 

[Protocall_Design]

I prefer Manson reamers over Clymer. You can order direct from Manson at Dave Manson Precision Reamers | Buy the Best to Build the Best.

You want a standard finish reamer for .22LR (cyl).

 

[fleabus101]

Thanks for your advice and experience..
Randy..

 

[cmansguns]

use tap magic and soft jaw vise-go slowly in one direction

I used the Manson FINISH reamer on Model 34-1, and Model 17-3 that were both very sticky ejection. Before reaming pic shows fired cases that wouldn't rechamber...all good after reaming.

Use cutting fluid like tap magic go slowly, stop when reamer just "kisses" the counterbore.

Pic of my vise is just loose on the work bench for pics of soft jaws, vise is securely bolted down to another work table when in use. Remember to put a drip pan or rag underneath to catch the very small chips and cutting fluid mess.

I got the reamer from Midway (I think) maybe Brownells.

Will make your guns a treat to shoot again without the hangup troubles.

 

[VAPA]

Why not try chucking a brass brush wrapped in a patch with Flitz polish with a drill to clean out the black gunk in the cylinder bores?

 

[sigp220.45]

You can just rent a .22 finishing reamer from 4D Rentals in Kalispell, MT.

Works great.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Why not try chucking a brass brush wrapped in a patch with Flitz polish with a drill to clean out the black gunk in the cylinder bores?

Because that won't fix the problem. It's not black gunk, it's too small a hole in the steel.

 

[StrawHat]

Yes, it is unfortunately, a well known issue with the S&W rimfire revolvers. I am not sure if it can be tracked to a certain serial number range or era but the sticky extraction problem is well known.

Polishing the chambers may or may not help. It often results in oval or egg shaped charge holes. Reamer the chambers is the proper solution and works, every time.

It has been speculated that a finish reamer was used past when it should have been retired or repurposed, and that caused the issue.

Kevin

 

[muzzlestuffer2012]

My kids shot my '47 Pre 17 22 yesterday.
Had some sticky extractions on some ammo.
What reamer aquire do any suggest to get and from who ? Brownell or Midwest ?
Thanks Randy. I figure to get one,, then put it out for members to holler it me, and pass it around to you guys to use for chamber cleaning/ reaming..
Best Randy..

why a reamer can't you just open it up with some proper paper or lapping it ? i'm not a expert on that but would think you don't need much to remove ?

 

[yeti]

Chamber reaming would be aggressive, but if actually needed that is the way to go.

You may just have years of buildup.
What about just cleaning up the chamber with a (~$22) Flex-Hone 22LR in 400grit?

 

[armorer951]

Personally, I'm mystified as to why Smith and Wesson would be aware of this pervasive and well documented problem with tight rimfire chambers for decades and decades, and then completely ignore the problem, and dig their heels in.

They used to make their own tooling, and this issue, that continues to inconvenience S&W rimfire revolver owners, could have been fixed many decades ago by simply changing the dimensions of the finish reamers they use which are obviously undersized.

Why haven't they fixed this? No one would have even known that the slight modification in reamer size (and chambers) had been made, (to the correct size) and a lot of owner complaints and down time by their own customer service staff could have been easily avoided. Makes no sense to me.

 

[SS336]

Personally, I'm mystified as to why Smith and Wesson would be aware of this pervasive and well documented problem with tight rimfire chambers for decades and decades, and then completely ignore the problem, and dig their heels in.

They used to make their own tooling, and this issue, that continues to inconvenience countless S&W revolver owners could have been fixed many decades ago by simply changing the dimensions of the finish reamers they use.

Why haven't they fixed this? No one would have even known that the slight modification in reamer size (and chambers) had been made, and a lot of owner complaints and down time by their own customer service staff could have been easily avoided. Makes no sense to me.

I agree, and because of this problem and people addressing it them selves, without the knowledge or skill, a lot of nice old K-22's might have been ruined.
This early '50's revolver had someone ream it all the way through. I bought it without seeing it and discovered the problem when cleaning it up. The dealer took it back and reimbursed me. It was sad too say the least.
I did not shoot it but I would think accuracy would be compromised. Has anyone seen a cylinder rechambered like this?

 

[cmj8591]

I agree, and because of this problem and people addressing it them selves, without the knowledge or skill, a lot of nice old K-22's might have been ruined.

Over and under on how long it takes for someone to post how dangerous it is to fire the gun like that.

 

[Mike-AK]

IMO, just keep 'em clean. Tight is good as long as the chamber throats are a bit over bore size.

 

[GypsmJim]

Why not try chucking a brass brush wrapped in a patch with Flitz polish with a drill to clean out the black gunk in the cylinder bores?

I did that, followed up with a small plug with some 600 emery cloth attached. Haven't had a problem since.

I must admit, though, that it was only 1 brand of ammo that was the problem. In fact, it was only one LOT of ammo.

Nevertheless, I "cleaned" it about 10 years ago and haven't had a problem since.

 

[sigp220.45]

I bet far more cylinders have been ruined with a Black and Decker than the correct sized finishing reamer.

I had one - A Model 63 with the usual tight chambers that had been power-tooled into uselessness by the previous owner. His efforts, though enthusiastic, were ineffective. He sent it to the factory, who sent it back with a note - chambers out of round, no replacement parts available. In other words - you made your bed, now snuggle up.

I got it cheap and sure enough - empties had to be pounded out with a big mallet.

40 bucks and minimal effort later I had a perfectly functional .22 WMR Model 63, thanks to the nice folks at 4D Rentals.

It was too far gone for a .22 LR fix. Most aren't though.

It was easy, too. I didn't even put the cylinder in a vise - I wrapped it in a piece of leather, and held it in one hand while I twirled the reamer with the other. Lots of cutting oil, turn it only one way, stop when its all the way in.

Those long skinny cases just slide right out.

I've had at least four other Smith .22s that were a pain to shoot, despite vigorous non-power tool cleaning. The "change owner" light came on and off they went. Now I know the secret.

 

[StrawHat]

Bubba's have been flex honing, spinning emery paper and doing all sorts of things in there efforts to avoid spending money to correctly fix a problem. In the meantime, they have ruined more than a few fine firearms.

To all who suggest other than reaming, sometimes the cheap methods help. Often they do not.

Your 22, your choice.

Kevin

 

[Tanners Owner]

For those who have reamed their cylinders, 2 Qs:

1. How does the reamer stay true? In other words, what do you do to ensure the reamer doesn't angle off true center?

2. How does one prevent damaging the counterbore?

I ask as I have a M63 that is sticky at times with specific ammo. I did an aggressive cleaning and that helped, but suspect it may need reaming.

Thanks in advance

 

[StrawHat]

…This early '50's revolver had someone ream it all the way through. I bought it without seeing it and discovered the problem when cleaning it up.

This is a 455 New Century, from 1914. Made into a 45 reverse Colt.

Kevin

 

[sigp220.45]

For those who have reamed their cylinders, 2 Qs:

1. How does the reamer stay true? In other words, what do you do to ensure the reamer doesn't angle off true center?

2. How does one prevent damaging the counterbore?

I ask as I have a M63 that is sticky at times with specific ammo. I did an aggressive cleaning and that helped, but suspect it may need reaming.

Thanks in advance

It fits so tightly it centers itself.

Once you get to the counterbore, stop.

Its pretty easy. I can't even change my own oil, and I did it. Its like sitting on the couch and turning a corkscrew 5000 times.