"Washer" replacement

Jcon72

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I was given these K-frame Magnas some time back. At the time I had no use for them but it looks like things have changed, due to a LGS putting up a 15-3 for sale.
What is the best option for replacing the missing washer on the one stock? This isn't a show gun so it doesn't have to be factory perfect, just decent and functional.

 
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The "proper way" would be to get another S&W logo escutcheon with a workable stud and a new "washer" - then refit by peening it on.

Another method (although a bit cheesy) would be to epoxy on a replacement washer and put a dab of epoxy on the broken stud so it doesn't come out of the wooden grip panel. Not exactly the right way but it will work for the most part.

I have repaired them with a new S&W escutcheon and washer back to factory spec - but I am the OCD type.
 
The "proper way" would be to get another S&W logo escutcheon with a workable stud and a new "washer" - then refit by peening it on.

Another method (although a bit cheesy) would be to epoxy on a replacement washer and put a dab of epoxy on the broken stud so it doesn't come out of the wooden grip panel. Not exactly the right way but it will work for the most part.

I have repaired them with a new S&W escutcheon and washer back to factory spec - but I am the OCD type.

If it were a show piece with numbers-matching stocks I would be a lot more OCD about it but the epoxy idea sound like a reasonable plan. If the stud is long enough to protrude through the washer that austintexas is sending, I might even consider skipping the epoxy and try a few spots of solder without heating things up enough to damage the wood. IIRC, I don't have any actual money tied up in this set (other than the postage I'm sending austintexas) so whatever happens isn't going to be a big deal breaker.
 
washer repair.....

tough to see in the pictures but seems like the rivet is still there and long enough???,,,just pinch it closed and put the new washer on and restake it or as noted above , epoxy or light dab of solder
 
tough to see in the pictures but seems like the rivet is still there and long enough???,,,just pinch it closed and put the new washer on and restake it or as noted above , epoxy or light dab of solder

Once the washer arrives that a fellow member is sending to me, my plan was to see if the stud is long enough to protrude through and very possibly (carefully) solder it without heating things up too much. I'll keep an eye out for a deal on a better set one day, but these are nice enough that they shouldn't be wasted and will look fine on a shooter. If they do get messed up I'm not out much.
 
I file very small notches in the sides of the stud. Put several. Don't file hard enough to rotate it. Scratch the wood with a scribe or file tip where the washer covers it. Scratch the back of the washer with many scratches using a file or sharp scribe. Make it rough. Degrease washer and epoxy in place. It won't move. If you get it hot enough to melt solder, it is hot enough to scorch/burn wood. If not that hot, you have a cold (useless) joint.
 
If you epoxy the stock circle on but want it to look original, just take a proper size wire nail and cut the head off and epoxy it right into the hole so the head shows flush to the circle. You can even hammer the head before you cut it so it looks penned over.

I happened to have some, but you can go to the hardware store and find them. They will be in little plastic containers hung up on the wall.

Just don't fake it and sell them as original.
 
If you epoxy the stock circle on but want it to look original, just take a proper size wire nail and cut the head off and epoxy it right into the hole so the head shows flush to the circle. You can even hammer the head before you cut it so it looks penned over.

I happened to have some, but you can go to the hardware store and find them. They will be in little plastic containers hung up on the wall.

Just don't fake it and sell them as original.

As stated, these are simply going to be used for a shooter-grade model 15.
 
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