Will I get kicked out for hacking this 3.5” M27?

I recently gladly overpaid for a 3.5" M27 for a few reasons:
- It was local
- I always wanted a 3.5" N frame
- I had the money
- I make bad decisions

Anyway, it's a good shooter with serious finish issues. It came with the 3 T's, which I really don't care for, especially on a short barrel. I am thinking about trading the stocks for magnas and a Tgrip, and grinding down the hammer to a semi target profile, and the trigger to the "combat" width.
What do you guy think? Any special value to a 3.5" with 3T's?


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YOUR gun..........YOUR $$$.....YOUR likes........Fix it the way you want it.........Nobody's opinion on here matters
 
By an interesting twist of fate, I also acquired a basic M10 at the same time. It came with what I believed to be ill-fitted (and chipped) target stocks. It turns out they are perfectly fitted…. for an N frame. So now I have two sets of targets that I don’t want and, believe it or not, only one random K frame grip panel in the house.
 

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Here is what I would do.

strawhat-albums-strawhat-picture24504-06fd4392-086b-48c2-8801-dbe3f4c185b0-custom-model-25-2-right.jpeg


You have a shooter grade revolver. Make it fit you and have fun.

Kevin

I love this gun, and what you did with it. It actually was part of the inspiration for getting another N frame.
 
A few mods wouldn't hurt. I would swap that barrel out for an 8 3/8" one, then cut it to 7 1/4 ", my favorite length. Line the barrel and chambers to .32 S&W Long, which is a great old target cartridge. Those sights are OK, but no good for low-light conditions so off they go and tap on a set of Sig-Sauer Siglight night sights. I like the grip angle of a 1911 Colt, so cut the old handle off and graft on the 1911 handle. I would put a hinged plate where the magazine went and store spare .32 rounds in the handle cavity.
 
A few mods wouldn't hurt. I would swap that barrel out for an 8 3/8" one, then cut it to 7 1/4 ", my favorite length. Line the barrel and chambers to .32 S&W Long, which is a great old target cartridge. Those sights are OK, but no good for low-light conditions so off they go and tap on a set of Sig-Sauer Siglight night sights. I like the grip angle of a 1911 Colt, so cut the old handle off and graft on the 1911 handle. I would put a hinged plate where the magazine went and store spare .32 rounds in the handle cavity.

Creative and funny :D
 
I would not grind the original target hammer and trigger, we are not living in the 1950's and S&W is not making these revolvers or parts. If the TH and TT bother you, I'd replace them, not grind them. As for stocks, keep the originals as well as the original hammer and trigger. When you decide that a K or L frame 357 is easier to tote, you can put that Model 27 back into original configuration and sell it for a lot of $$$. Refinish it? I would not. Even the best refinish that puts it back to looking like it did when it left S&W will actually devalue the revolver and cost a lot of $$. Firearms are original only once, when permanent alterations are made to them, then can never be original again.
 
A few mods wouldn't hurt. I would swap that barrel out for an 8 3/8" one, then cut it to 7 1/4 ", my favorite length. Line the barrel and chambers to .32 S&W Long, which is a great old target cartridge. Those sights are OK, but no good for low-light conditions so off they go and tap on a set of Sig-Sauer Siglight night sights. I like the grip angle of a 1911 Colt, so cut the old handle off and graft on the 1911 handle. I would put a hinged plate where the magazine went and store spare .32 rounds in the handle cavity.
You forgot about welding an accessory rail to the ejector rod shroud. :D
 
I like your Model 27 just the way it is, but that's just me. I have no room to talk because neither of my 3-1/2" bbl. 27-2s is factory original. You may notice that one of my 27-2s has undergone a trigger job and has a smooth trigger. I bought it that way from another Forum member because at the time I really wanted a 3-1/2" bbl., the condition was great, and the price was right. The other 3-1/2" (I bought from a friend's father) has custom high quality "brass" plates bonded to the bottom of each stock. Inside the right stock is inscribed "Special Order Gold", but a local jeweler couldn't verify gold vs. high quality brass alloy. It may have been an LEO revolver. Even Hondo44 couldn't explain why these plates were installed (head knockers? or maybe for an inscription?), but said they were very nicely fitted but definitely not factory. I'm with those that say leave your 27 alone and enjoy it...but it is your revolver to do with as you will. Perhaps just a parts swap would satisfy your fitment and aesthetic needs. Enjoy!
 

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Your gun, your call. Were it mine, I would replace the hammer and trigger with the ones I wanted. I'm no gunsmith at all, but have tinkered with S&W revolvers. Isn't rocket science. Get the Jerry Kuhnhausen book.
 
The finish issues are minor - it looks better and is worth more now than it would with a re-blue.

I think the target grips are too big for 3.5" guns. I prefer magnas or boot grips:
Spyvs-Spy.jpg



I do have a 4" 27-2 that came with 3Ts, so I left it alone even though I would prefer it without them. Here it is with a couple of 28s:
20150824-095508-zps41cd7a5f-1.jpg
 
Not my gun so not my call.

I can't stand bobbed/altered hammers which are hideously ugly and only offer illusory benefits in the mind of the owner anyway. They place single-action sears on double-action hammers for a reason. I like having choices on my double-action revolvers, single-action or double-action, and I will have choices.

I could admire that revolver with its original impaired finish if I saw it lying on a table. I'd look right past it if it sported any kind of refinish.

Now for shooting purposes Magnas and a T-Grip would be just the ticket.
 
See pic. The other side is not as bad.

Here is what I would do with that. I would keep the bad areas wet with Kroil for a few days, then rub the area with a bronze brush and bronze wool. Then rub the areas with with alcohol or acetone to remove residue. Then I would cold blue the areas and put a couple coats of Ren Wax one it. Then I would shoot it.
 
Not my gun so not my call.

I can't stand bobbed/altered hammers which are hideously ugly and only offer illusory benefits in the mind of the owner anyway. They place single-action sears on double-action hammers for a reason. I like having choices on my double-action revolvers, single-action or double-action, and I will have choices.

I could admire that revolver with its original impaired finish if I saw it lying on a table. I'd look right past it if it sported any kind of refinish.

Now for shooting purposes Magnas and a T-Grip would be just the ticket.

Just to be clear, I never intended to remove the spur. Just harrow it down to match the length/width/shape of a “semi-target” hammer.
 
Wonder if one could scare up an N-Frame service hammer and trigger such as would be for a Model 28 from off of Ebay?
 
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