Will I get kicked out for hacking this 3.5” M27?

[steelslaver]

Wonder if one could scare up an N-Frame service hammer and trigger such as would be for a Model 28 from off of Ebay?

Ya, they show up all the time, or someone here might want to trade you a service set for your target set.You need a non MIM trigger from a model numbered K, L or N frame will work but you need a N hammer hammer. Only reason I say model numbered is the early K and N frames had a different set, which you can reconise by the hammer spur location. The part that most often takes some firing is the double action sear on the hammer, but often putting the old one in the new hammer works. Not always and even sticking in a matched set may not work. Another thing you can trade is the hand.

But, in my opinion anyone who owns and shoots revolvers should learn some basic skills for working on them. In this case you can always stick the original parts back in.

 

[dbarale]

Ya, they show up all the time, a non MIM trigger from a model numbered K<L or N frame will work but you need a N hammer hammer. The part that most often takes some firing is the double action sear on the hammer, but often putting the old on in the new hammer works. Not away and even sticking in a matched set may not work. Another thing you can trade is the hand.

But, in my opinion anyone who owns and shoots revolvers should learn some basic skills for working on them. In this case you can always stick the original parts back in.

Fine! You guys win… I will leave the hammer alone and just get a trigger off Ebay. I am a DA shooter and that target trigger is just not working for me. It should be interesting as it’s been a while since I’ve worked on a S&W action.
Anyway, a couple of follow-up questions:
- am I correct that all KLN case-hardened, non-mim, “short action” triggers are the same?
- and is there value in the chipped smooth target stocks that I posted above? Could I trade them for some shooter grade magnas? Or am I good to reshape them into boot grips!

Thanks again for all the help and input.

 

[bmcgilvray]

You'd like the Magnas and T-Grip. Makes shooting the big N-Frame like drivin' a Cadillac ... well, the older big, long, and heavy Cadillacs rather than the stunted "Cadettes" they're selling now.

I've got an early 50's 3 1/2-inch N-Frame .357 that's less than perfect, but sure is a dandy way to do .357 Magnum as a side arm. It came with Magnas and the T-Grip is a nice addition for fit, not for looks. I think T-Grips look hideous, but pretty is as pretty does. I've toted it fairly regularly, especially since a friend made a nice Brill style holster for me.

 

[grendelbane]

Put me in the camp that switch out the hammer and trigger if you want to. Grinding them down would be a job, they are really hard.

I know because I despurred a j-frame hammer once upon a time. It can be done, but it is a job.

I kept the original hammer so I can put it back if I want.

 

[SmithNut]

The 3 1/2" M27 speaks of "lawman", or working gun.... While they can sub as a "target" gun, IMO that is not their correct and proper role...
Having said that I believe Target hammer and trigger on a 3 1/2" M27 is a waste, they need to have standard hammers and triggers as noted by many above.
Here's my two, properly equipped as noted:

When it comes to grips/stocks, that's more of a personal decision, how they fit and how one shoots them dictates what works for them personally.

For me, I love Spegel's "short" targets with S&W medallions... (the large pre-war medallions are best ) as shown above. These are "size appropriate" to the gun and mission, they don't get any better.... Just my opionion...

 

[steelslaver]

I have a wide grooved trigger on my 25-5 and hate it. Much double action shooting and my finger starts to get tore up. I would trade it for a wide smooth trigger.

 

[StrawHat]

I have a wide grooved trigger on my 25-5 and hate it. Much double action shooting and my finger starts to get tore up. I would trade it for a wide smooth trigger.

Having read about all the work you do firing cylinders etc. it surprises me that you have not cleaned that trigger! A bit of file work and some polishing, done!

Kevin

 

[steelslaver]

Don't want to mess up a nice looking target trigger. I have a bunch of triggers, I should take the wide one out and stick in something else. But, that isn't very interesting and I have a stainless 5", a blue 6", a blue 6 1/2" and a 3 1/2" to shoot anyway. It sure does look good though It would look good with a wide smooth trigger to. LOL

One of these days I am going to get some bone charcoal and learn how to color case harden. I already have a heat treat oven.

 

[larondo]

I wouldn't do a thing to that revolver. It's got patina, that's worth more than any alterations. Maybe it was over-paid, that happens.
Clean it, tune it, oil it & shoot it.

 

[DR505]

I agree that a standard trigger and hammer are better for a 3.5" Model 27. This is how my 27-2 came to me...and I like it. However, it is easy to swap out for a standard trigger/hammer than go grinding on parts that are no longer produced.

 

[raygixxer89]

I agree that a standard trigger and hammer are better for a 3.5" Model 27. This is how my 27-2 came to me...and I like it. However, it is easy to swap out for a standard trigger/hammer than go grinding on parts that are no longer produced.

Beautiful! Did they ever make a model 27 RB?

 

[SixgunFife]

As has already been said, I’d leave it alone as much as possible, save your expectation to find a replacement hammer and / or trigger rather than modify the originals. Like you and others, I prefer the service-style triggers and hammers and was glad my well-travelled 3-1/2” 27-2 came with them.

I’ve been tempted to consider a refinish of some sort but always come back to preferring the worn original. Gun is shown here with a mix of Barranti and Sparks gunleather and wears a set of stocks from the old Bear Hug Grips.

 

[DR505]

Beautiful! Did they ever make a model 27 RB?

S&W did make a RB 627. My 627-0 has a RB.

 

[Ruger 13]

It’s your gun…….do what you want! If it was mine I’d refinish it!

 

[steelslaver]

I have a blue set up and have refinished some of my own, but always ones I have modified or were really sad. A older revolver that has a thin finish from being holstered and used has its own kind of appeal and beauty.

Probably crass comparing women to guns but nobody has every accused me of being all that "woke". So, here goes.

There are some truly beautiful women in their 50s and 60s. They may not look as "shiny" and "cute" as they did at 19 but, being a lot smarter now that I was at 21, I wouldn't want the shiny model anyway

 

[dbarale]

Well I did get a trigger off Ebay. It looked great with very little wear, no pitting, etc.

That is until I tried to fit it, it would not activate the cylinder stop enough to release the cylinder and allow it to rotate. As I was trying to see where the engagement points were, a piece just fell off. I have never seen that kind of failure. Any ideas? I was not forcing anything. I wonder if it fell and bent/cracked at some point?

 

[tops]

I think guns are like women. I feel better if I have a good looking one. Larry

 

[Muley Gil]

Well I did get a trigger off Ebay. It looked great with very little wear, no pitting, etc.

That is until I tried to fit it, it would not activate the cylinder stop enough to release the cylinder and allow it to rotate. As I was trying to see where the engagement points were, a piece just fell off. I have never seen that kind of failure. Any ideas? I was not forcing anything. I wonder if it fell and bent/cracked at some point?

PM me your address and I'll send you a trigger next week. Looks like the one you bought had a flaw in the metal.

 

[Inland7-45]

A 40 -50 + year old Model 27, 19, 29 or 57 with an original but flawed bright blue finish like this one is to me preferable to a new Classic version or an original that has been refinished in the newer black oxide. I vote with the leave the finish as is block.

I do not like the wide target trigger. I shoot all of my S&Ws DA most of the time. I even have a model 29 with a service trigger and standard N frame hammer. The original parts are stored away and will go with the gun when sold. I have .312” smooth CT trigger in my model 67 . Both types work great for DA shooting. I do not prefer one over they other. From what I understand the factory will work with customer supplied parts. Having the factory install the parts and smooth up the action at the same time. Not sure what this would cost but the gun will likely be tied up for 2-3 months. This is based on my experience with a repair on an by older model 36 that I had done last year.

For stocks you could likely find a set of non diamond magnas in nice shape and install them with a grip adapter.

I do disagree that a gun like this is only a shooter and has no collector value. While it may not be as valuable as a LNIB with all the papers and tools it deserves to have what is left of it’s originality preserved.

If it were mine I would get out my old pair of smooth N frame target stocks that have been nicely reshaped for DA work and look great on a short barreled N frame. While waiting to get the hammer and trigger taken care of I look for a nice old 70’s vintage Bianchi or Safariland holster.

 

[edwardyoung]

I think I used to own this 27-2. Traded it to a guy from Lenoir. Small world.