617, 6 shot to 10 shot

[Lodiguy]

Hi all, new to the forum and have a question about my new (to me) 617-5. It is presently a 6-shot 22LR, but I've been told that I could switch it over to a the 10-shot version (617-6) by changing out the cylinder and hand. Can anyone with more experience tell me that this is a viable option compared to just buying the a 10-shot version of revolver?

 

[swagmeister]

Not sure about this, but I would think that even though the cylinder and hand could be swapped out, you would probably need a gunsmith to fit it correctly for it to be in time. Although, it might just drop in with no problems, but it always was not that simple for me. Don't know, just saying. Find you a 10 shot version and you then have two fine .22 revolvers. Good luck.

 

[Camster]

Put the money towards a 10 shot version.

 

[ladder13]

You may get a better answer in the Smithing section.

And welcome.

 

[DS-10-SPEED]

Here is a link to a new 10 shot cylinder, they come with an uncut ratchet and will not work until fitted to the hand. You will also have to get a 10 shot hand before fitting. I would suggest a gunsmith, S&W used to do the conversions but it may be just better to sell your 6 shot and buy a 10 shot.

Smith & Wesson Model 617 Cylinder: MGW

I replaced a bad cylinder on one of my 617's from the link above, I made a file fixture jig to precisely fit the new cylinder, it worked great. You have to install the cylinder in and out of the gun to test fit each ratchet until the hand just passes the ratchet without binding. There may also be trimming needed to the cylinder length on the extractor end, I had to remove 0.001" on my lathe to prevent binding.

 

[ryxlyx]

8/9 years ago I picked up a 2-pistol lot on Rock Island Auction that included this 10-shot (converted) 617 Ashland (no dash) as well as a 9-shot 17-6 no lug, both conversions done by the same smith:

The 5 flutes and the unusual milling of the recess are pretty good clues that 10-shot cylinders weren't available from S&W at the time this gun was converted.

I assume the 9-shot 17-6 was done first as 9-shot H&Rs had been around for a couple decades and the owner simply wanted a Smith version of the same, I'll guess that there was at least discussion of a future 10-shot Smith that led to the gun pictured.

The cylinder gap on this one is broader than specs, that puzzled me at first given the $$$ spent to commission this gun but it dawned on me that the guy wanted the original gap to remain for the 6-shot cylinder. If the barrel had been reset to properly gap the 10-shot cylinder, the 6-shot cylinder would be too tight (if it slipped in at all).

 

[Green Frog]

My first handgun was a High Standard Sentinal Deluxe snub with a nine shot cylinder, and I now own or have owned a couple of pre-War I frame 22s (HFT) and a 1948 K-22 (all 6 shooters). From my standpoint, I'm not all that sold on high capacity 22 revolvers unless a specific need exists (such as a competitive application). In the current market and with the difficulty of finding and long wait for the services of good, competent gunsmiths, I would follow the advice above and trade it in for a "ten shooter". At the end of it all, this will probably be faster, cheaper, and just as satisfactory.

As someone who has altered a couple of guns to get what I thought I needed, I've followed the rule of thumb, "If what you want is readily available on the market, don't alter another gun to get it!"

Of course if you have some special attachment to the current revolver and don't want to lose it, look into the cost and time involved in having it built (you'll be surprised, I'm sure) and look at the cost to just purchase what you want outright. The difference may be so slight as to make buying what you want make make sense

That's my free advice and is worth every penny you paid for it!

Froggie

 

[Smithpride]

Just buy a 2nd revolver with 10 shots in your favorite barrel length flavor.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

I wholeheartedly agree to get the 10 shot version as well. But as for a conversion, Its doable. As mentioned you need an appropriately fitting cylinder and a 10 shot hand. If you do it yourself buy 2 hands because it goes from perfect to inoperable fairly quickly. If you are patient and swipe the hand with a stone one or two swipes at a time then it will be fine.
It really helps to have worked on these mechanisms prior to fully understand how they operste with each other. Best of luck

 

[Engine49guy]

The earlier 6 shot versions are more collectable, converting it will devalue the gun and cost almost as much as a decent used IL/MIM 10 shot version.

The advantage of the 10 shot is less opening closing loading unloading wear on the yoke.
Consider that firing 600 rds in the 6 shot = 100 open , eject, reload, close and fire procedures, the 10 shot only requires 60 for the same rounds fired.
The advantage of the 6 shot is the cylinder spins up n feels the same as a 6 shot Model 15/19 Model 67/66, model 10/64, Model 13/65 etc so makes it easier to train your trigger finger in double action.

If you always thumb cock the hammer and fire single action you will not feel a difference

 

[steelslaver]

I have an 18-4 I have fired 10s of thousands of rounds through and neither the yoke or extractor are show excess wear. None of the other parts do either.

I do not really get the desire for high capacity revolvers. If you plinking enjoy it, if your hunting be accurate. Opening and closing the cylinder on a 22 isn't where the time goes. it is sticking the rounds in the chambers. Yes. I have some K22 speed loaders and know they come in 10 rounders, but what s with the big hurry to burn up ammo.

My brain is also trained to fire 6 and reload, I often get clicks with my 5 shooters

 

[DS-10-SPEED]

I do not really get the desire for high capacity revolvers.

I can understand the desire to only have 6 rounds to match your other 6 shooters but I got into the speed steel sports like SCSA and bowling pins that has been totally addictive and 10 shots are required if you want any chance of competing against the bottom feeders. There are also stages in RSSF that have 7 plates to shoot and that makes a 6 shooter useless. It all depends on what you want to do, my 617-0 six shot never gets used any more.

 

[Engine49guy]

I should have elaborated a little more as the K frame and yoke are way overengineered for the .22lr round but it does put more use on the yoke and ejector.

Imo the big advantage is if you like to shoot alot of ammo because on the 10 shot you spend about 40% less time loading, that translates to more time on the trigger before u have do go through the loading and ejecting process again.
I don't compete so the points made about needing the 10 shot to be competitive is interesting.

I mostly plink but I use my K22's whenever I'm teaching a new shooter, full disclosure I don't own a 10 shot gun ....yet

 

[Green Frog]

We haven't heard back from the OP. I don't know whether we answered his question, angered him, confused him, or scared him away.

Lodiguy, I hope we gave you enough info to make an informed decision. I'll sum up by saying the consensus is mostly that unless you have some specific reason for wanting to keep that specific revolver, altering it would probably not be economical to do so.

If you price out the parts you will need then add the price of gunsmithing, the cost (including the current value of your revolver) you'll probably get a negative overall value… that's why you're getting a lot of negatives.

When you cost things out, buying a ten shot revolver (reasonably available) it makes sense to trade in the revolver you have or get the second revolver that suits your desired specs.

Regardless, enjoy it!
Green Frog

 

[steelslaver]

I actually do understand that some people like more rounds, that for some completions it is a huge help. It is great that S&W has made them available.

Just not my cup of tea.