Stuck case remover parts

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Tooling up preparatory to getting into reloading .223, and looking online at dies, tools, and lubes. Looking at the RCBS stuck case remover, I'm wondering how close I can get to making my own.
1. I have tons of threading taps and drill bits
2. I have a lot of 1/4-20 screws with the recessed hex caps, and hex keys to match.
3. Looks like the only serious question is the critical dimensions of the tubular part.

I'd much appreciate it if someone could measure and post the various dimensions of the tube / cup/ whatchamacallit.
I'd also be happy to learn the size and thread pitch of the threading tap in the kit (should be noted on the shank)

Thanks
 
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i use a small socket that will fit over the rim and rest on the bottom of the die. I drill a 3/16" hole through the primer pocket. Tap hole with 1/4-20 tap. Insert die in vise upside down. Set socket on die. Take a 1/4-20 hex head bolt and run a nut up the bolt about 1 ". Stick the bolt through the socket and screw it into the tapped hole in the case. run the nut down till it seats on the socket. take 2 ea 7/16" wrenches. Hold the bolt with one and tighten the nut with the other. Hull will pull right out of the die.........Cost is ZERO since I have all the parts on hand.
 
Back in the old days, someone invented a little tool called the

"Easy out"

that would fix a lot of problems around the house, used with 3in1 and a little muscle.

On my first stuck case,
I remembered a sentence in one of my reloading manuals, that stated;

"Next time, lube that case".
 
The standard thread for loading dies is 7/8"-14 TPI, the same as 1/2" black pipe/gas lines!

A homemade stuck case remover using a 1/2" pipe connector works great you can thread it on a little way and free up a hand. (might take a little longer screw and you still need a washer)

Ivan
 
The standard thread for loading dies is 7/8"-14 TPI, the same as 1/2" black pipe/gas lines!

A homemade stuck case remover using a 1/2" pipe connector works great you can thread it on a little way and free up a hand. (might take a little longer screw and you still need a washer)

Ivan
A good idea. Except I haven't stuck a case in a sizing die for many years. I sort of remember that RCBS would remove a stuck case for free if you sent the die to them. But that was a very long time ago.
 
I have drilled and tapped the stuck case and used a wrench socket and washer as the tubular part. I have used sockets for all sorts of things unrelated to loosening or tightening bolts.

big sockets and a chunk of all thread work wonders on control arm bushings.
 
most of my die sets are Lee, how do you do it?

I am not certain, but Lee dies use a primer punch rod held in a collet. I believe the method is to loosen the collet so the rod can slide, and punch the case out by striking the rod with a hammer while it is in the press. I have never done that, but it seems like it should work.
 
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I am not certain, but Lee dies use a primer punch rod held in a collet. I believe the method is to loosen the collet so the rod can slide, and punch the case out by striking the rod with a hammer while it is in the press. I have never done that, but it seems like it would work.

Yes, Lee deprimers use a pin in a collet. I'll have to remember this. The pins are only a couple of bucks, and I ordered a bunch of spares.
 
and to make it easier put the whole die etc in the freezer when set up steel and brass...when really cold usually slides out easy
 
I seem to get 30-06 brass stuck more often than anything.
I use the same lube (Imperial Wax) on everything. But if I stick one and pull the rim off,,it'll be an '06 for some reason.

Most everything else of the same class seems to resize easier for some reason.
303, 30-40, 8mm, 7mm, ect. Even 9.3x74r.

Maybe it's time to upgrade from my 1960's Herter reloading dies.

I drill and tap the base 1/4-28. Use an Allan head socket screw with a big washer on it.
The spacer is just a large hex nut (1/2"?) . Big enough to allow the case to be drawn out of the die.

The biggest pain is unscrewing the expander button/pin from the decapping rod first.
Then after drawing the case out of the die, you have to saw one end of the case off to get the expander out of the case.

I could just drill out the already D&T'd hole larger but the hacksaw works quickly. Just make sure that expander w/decapping pin is laying at the other end of the case when you saw thru it.
 
I seem to get 30-06 brass stuck more often than anything.
I use the same lube (Imperial Wax) on everything. But if I stick one and pull the rim off,,it'll be an '06 for some reason.

Maybe it's time to upgrade from my 1960's Herter reloading dies.


It sounds like you might invest $10 in a used RCBS 30-06 sizer!

Ivan
 
I had a set of Herter's 30-06 dies. first set I ever had. Without a lot of lube they worked terrible sizing. I gave 'em to a friend...well he WAS a friend before I gave 'em to him. Talking with him the other day...He still has 'em. Bought then in about 1964...they were cheap. I do have 3 Herter's carbide sizers from way back. 38/357,44,45. They probably have 75 dollars worth of carbide in 'em at todays prices
 
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