HELP: How to make a Smython?

[MuayThaiJJ]

Hey gang,
I need some guidance on this. I want to take this on as a project, I am a tinkerer and have a talented machinist buddy on hand.

I have acquired a Colt Python 8" barrel, and an Aristocrat 8" sight rib. What are good Models for a S&W frame to take this on? Older is good for me, since C&R is easier for me to obtain.

Next, what machining is needed to complete this?

I assume the Python barrel will have to be re-threaded on the lathe. Some type of ball-detent on the barrel to hold the S&W ejector. Any details on these would be very appreciated!

thanks ahead of time for the input!
Nick

 

[6string]

Use the search tool on this forum! It's a great resource that is often overlooked.
There's a TON of info that has already been posted that will help you tremendously in your endeavor!

Good luck!!

 

[MuayThaiJJ]

I found this so far: You need to turn the threads to .540-36 from .562-36 or 32 depending on vintage of Python barrel, open the slot for the extractor rod for the thicker S&W ejector rod and you should install a crane ball detent to aid front lock up

I am wondering what models are best for the Python barrel? From what I gather K-frames are good but any specific models? I also read that the Python barrel will need to be reduced and then threaded to fit the K-frame.

 

[steelslaver]

I have done 2 Smolts, both on K frames l,there you must rethread to .540-36, open up channel in under lug because colt rods are only fat at the end and smiths are uniform. You must also adjust barrel shoulder so barrel times with rib at 12:00, adjust barrel to cylinder gap etc and install a ball detent lock on yoke oh and touch up forcing cone.
if you have a later Python barrel with one pin holding front sight it is .562-36, the same as a L frame smith so no rethread needed but all the rest of the stuff is. The older Python barrels are .563-32 and would be difficult to make work without building up the barrel shank first. One guy here has a python barrel mounted on a N frame and that was done by making and adapter from python threads to .670-36 for an N frame. Anything is possible with time and equipment and or money. I don't usually work on other people's stuff as I have no FFL and am currently away from home running part of a oil refinery shutdown working 13 hours a day, 7 days a week and will not be home till mid May.

 

[murphydog]

Given the parts availability and skills involved, an alternative question may be how to 'have' a Smython - and the answer to buy one that was already made properly.

 

[MuayThaiJJ]

I have done 2 Smolts, both on K frames l,there you must rethread to .540-36, open up channel in under lug because colt rods are only fat at the end and smiths are uniform. You must also adjust barrel shoulder so barrel times with rib at 12:00, adjust barrel to cylinder gap etc and install a ball detent lock on yoke oh and touch up forcing cone.
if you have a later Python barrel with one pin holding front sight it is .562-36, the same as a L frame smith so no rethread needed but all the rest of the stuff is. The older Python barrels are .563-32 and would be difficult to make work without building up the barrel shank first. One guy here has a python barrel mounted on a N frame and that was done by making and adapter from python threads to .670-36 for an N frame. Anything is possible with time and equipment and or money. I don't usually work on other people's stuff as I have no FFL and am currently away from home running part of a oil refinery shutdown working 13 hours a day, 7 days a week and will not be home till mid May.

Thanks, that is some great info. On a semi-related note—if the old and new Python barrels have different threading does that mean they don’t all drop in fit? And the number of pins in the front sight will determine frame compatibility?
thanks!
N

 

[steelslaver]

Even a a barrel for the same size frame and manufacturer may not be a drop in fit. 36 to the inch threads are .0277 long per turn so even a a few thousands on the frame or shoulder will cause it to tighten up to soon or worse to late. Too late you need to machine enough shoulder off to go another turn. Sometimes you get lucky but often you have to make some adjustments even N frame barrel to another N frame barrel. J,K,or L are the same way. This is a case of a little bit maters. It is also why you hear all the teeth gashing over mistimed barrels. An old python barrel would NOT work on a newer frame or visa versa. Sticking a python barrel with the right threads on an L frame is Not going to be a screw together deal . Lots of what I call fiddling to make them work. It can be done, yes I did it but I have tools and when I am not working a job lots of time. That is why I can do stuff that would not make economic sense if you had to pay to have it done. The days of low cost gunsmithing is gone

 

[Protocall_Design]

Model 15 and model 19 are probably the 2 best frames to use for this project. All the above from Steelslaver applies, plus get a rear sight for a 2 inch gun, and the tang will butt right up to the Python rib. With a rear sight for a longer barrel, there will be a gap between the tang and rib.

You don't want another sight rib on top of the Python barrel, because you would have to mill off the Python vent rib to put it on. Then you may as well just use a bull barrel made from a blank, as you have then taken away the whole reason to have the Python barrel in the first place.

 

[schutz5]

4. S&W Model 19 - “Smython” CUSTOM... for sale at Gunsamerica.com: 960609256


GUNS Magazine Mix-N-Match Shooters - GUNS Magazine

Have fun!!

 

[steelslaver]

BTW, I do believe you could re thread a old 32 to the inch Python barrel to .540-36 so it could be fit to a K frame, But Not a L frame without building the shank up. To me the an 586 or 686 would be best, But there are some ifs on that. Would the top of aa Python barrel come out near flush or if not a bit high so that an long tang rear sight meets the rib and are there rear sights with tangs long enough to go to the front of a L frame? There is a way to cheat on that though. Take an old piece of rang or rib and mill the frame so it sets in it and silver solder in place.

That is what have done making fixed sight frames look good with a ribbed barrel when I put adjustable sights on them
This 1937 Brazilian with a cut 1950 barrel for example

On this 4" Smolt project I used a J&G "gunsmith special"10-7 fixed sight frame and you can see the initial rib to frame mismatch here

But as I was going to blue the whole thing anyway I milled a new angle in the rear portion of the rib and then tapered the sides a bit and used a long tang rear sight to get to this.

Still not a show gun, just interesting

I have a home made ransom rest and have found them to be no more or less accurate than you average K frame. This is 6 shots from my 6" Smolt