Need Help with Model Identification!

[DeltaCompany]

I don't know how to start my own thread but I hope I can get some help with the model number of this .38 spl. Hand ejector fixed sights. Barrel length 2". It's been dipped in paint at some point and a lot of the etching isn't readable

 

[DWalt]

I don't know how to start my own thread but I hope I can get some help with the model number of this .38 spl. Hand ejector fixed sights. Barrel length 2". It's been dipped in paint at some point and a lot of the etching isn't readable

Not quite sure with all the paint on it, but I believe it is is a Chiefs Special, later called the Model 36. Can you see a serial number stamped on the butt? Those grips show extreme wear. Is there an interesting story there?

 

[s&wchad]

Welcome aboard!

You have a "Baby Chief Special" from the early 1950's.

Remove the grips and soak it in mineral spirits or acetone. Can you make out the serial number on the butt?

This link may be helpful.
(Click hers)> To IDENTIFY your Gun >

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Welcome aboard from ol' Wyo.

There's a project! Wow.

S&W made the 5-screw Chiefs Special from 1950 through 1954 (you'll find the 5th screw under the top of the right stock), when the 4-screw model deleted the trigger guard screw, made the rounded trigger guard more ovate, and extended the grip frame by ⅛".

Wow, in reading Dwalt's wiki link I can see where many online sellers get some of the bogus information they use in their ads:

"It was produced as the "Chiefs Special" until 1957, when it then became the Model 36. The "Chiefs Special" continued to be manufactured as a separate variant."

Balderdash!

I look forward to you sharing the serial number with us if you choose to do so (at least the first two or three digits will do -- many folks use x's for the last two digits so they don't tell all online). We can give you some idea when S&W shipped your Chiefs Special -- sometime between early 1952 and late 1953, for sure.

 

[gmborkovic]

Hello Delta, what a neat gun. I like it. If the barrel and chambers are clean,
go shoot it. Post a pic of the right side. I want to see the side plate and seam. It is definitely a conversation starter.

 

[Goony]

I'd really like to see another photo after its acetone soak. In removing the paint, use a nylon bristle brush, and absolutely don't employ a wire wheel or anything like that. This is not an unimportant gun and deserves to be saved. I wonder if the front ramp sight is serrated or smooth.

 

[DeltaCompany]

Thanks everyone for the insight. I will definitely keep you guys updated on the project. Starting the acetone soak first thing tomorrow. The first 3 numbers I make out on the serial are 245. I tried dry firing it the trigger diesnt return on its on. I haven't tried disassembly yet I was worried about ruining the screw heads.

 

[DeltaCompany]

I'd really like to see another photo after its acetone soak. In removing the paint, use a nylon bristle brush, and absolutely don't employ a wire wheel or anything like that. This is not an unimportant gun and deserves to be saved. I wonder if the front ramp sight is serrated or smooth.

The sight is serrated. I will definitely post more pics

 

[DeltaCompany]

Also when the trigger doesn't return all the way I can slightly pull on the hammer and it will sort of jump back into place

 

[4K2022]

What an awesome project! I think I see a hint of case color on the hammer and trigger. I'm surprised the paint on the yoke isn't scratched from swinging out the cylinder (if it actually does open). I wouldn't worry about the operation at this stage, your complaints are consistent with gunked-up or rusty internals (springs). If I was to offer advice I would suggest 3 things; a good set of screwdrivers, patience and more patience! I recently spent a week trying to remove 1 stubborn sideplate screw from a 1896 32HE. I tried everything from heating it in the sun to freezing it in the refrigerator! It did come out, and when it did it looked like new. PATIENCE

 

[4K2022]

BTW, I want to be the first to congratulate you on your new, Pinto!

 

[JH1951]

Welcome to the Forum!
It wouldn't surprise me if the innards are quite gunked up and preventing the mechanism from functioning properly. A soak in acetone should help free things up. Work the action several times during the soak. Keep us posted. As said above, this one deserves to be brought back from the edge, and odds are that it can be done.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

The first 3 numbers I make out on the serial are 245.

Assuming there are five digits in the serial number, S&W likely shipped your Chiefs Special near the end of 1952.

Eager to see how things turn out after the acetone bath.

 

[rct269]

The FIRST step in removing ANY screw is to CLEAN the slots-----such that there's nothing in there but air.

Ralph Tremaine

Oh, and the next step is to use NOTHING but a hollow ground screwdriver----wedge blades are best used as pry bars.

Oh again, and don't even think about prying the sideplate!!

 

[Goony]

One last thing - if the paint turns out to be latex, the product that will quickly and safely remove it is Goof Off.

 

[JP@AK]

use NOTHING but a hollow ground screwdriver

Agreed.

But this:

wedge blades are best used as pry bars

NO, Ralph!

Screwdrivers should NEVER be used as pry bars. The steel is not tempered properly for that and using them for that purpose is a receipe for disaster. Don't, don't, don't.

 

[rct269]

Agreed.

But this:

NO, Ralph!

Screwdrivers should NEVER be used as pry bars. The steel is not tempered properly for that and using them for that purpose is a receipe for disaster. Don't, don't, don't.

At the risk of being misunderstood, I was being facetious.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[mikepriwer]

I notice two or three areas on the gun that appear black. I wonder if these are areas that have, or maybe had, roll makings, or stampings. That is, I wonder if the markings have all been ground off.

After the soaking, round toothpicks will help clear/clean out the screw slots. If any of the paint worked it's way into screw threads, it may take a long soaking time to free that up. A week or two would not be unreasonable.

When using heat, the idea is to heat the metal surrounding the screw, but not the screw itself. Heating the surrounding metal will cause the screw hole to expand, which ought to break a rust bond. When using cold, the idea is to cool only the screw, and not the surrounding area. This will cause the screw to shrink diametrically, again breaking the rust bond.

Mike Priwer

 

[Hondo44]

At the risk of being misunderstood, I was being factitious.

Ralph Tremaine

I'm pretty sure Jack was as well.

 

[DeltaCompany]

Any suggestions on where to get a kit or the best kit with hollow ground screwdrivers? I have searched around town locally but it looks like I will have to order offline.