Need Help with Model Identification!

DeltaCompany said:
Only 4 digits 2452 at bottom of handle
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Earlier I guessed five digits. Wow. It likely shipped in January '52.

Your Chiefs Special has just taken the position as the first known model with a smooth ramp front sight. Yours is nearly 500 numbers lower than the previous record holder.

Thanks for sharing yours and your progress on it with us. Keep it up!
 
J-frame grips are not going to fit...unless you file or sand off the bottom 1/8th of an inch or so.

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
 
Welcome to the forum DeltaCompany! I'm enjoying your progress on your "Baby Chief" rediscovery. A lot of great folks here who will be glad to help. Best wishes!
 
A bit of context: the original Chiefs Special was built on a modified I frame, which was the predecessor to the J frame. The grips—while similar—are not the same.

That's why an original set of diamond service stocks for your gun tend to cost a lot more than the later J frame diamonds. Yours are earlier and scarcer.

That's why I suggested keeping the original stocks. Regardless of their condition, they're scarce wood.

Mike
 
DeltaCompany said:
J frame grips won't fit???
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Well, that's a bit of a fallacy.

Your Chiefs Special is a J-frame. It takes the stocks made for a 5-screw J-frame. The 4-screw J-frame stocks are ⅛" longer. (See the photo.)
 

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DeltaCompany said:
J frame grips won't fit??? Any chance I can find grips that will fit without sanding?
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Yes. Round butt J frame grips that totally enclose the grip frame (target or combat) will fit. J frame grips made as panels that expose the grip frame can be mounted. But the panels will extend beyond the bottom of the grip frame by 1/8" and look funny. I frame grips will fit.
 
This is the GREATEST thread of any I remember reading

This is the GREATEST thread of any I remember reading.

OP provided PHOTOS and DETAILS.

Forum members provided GOOD ADVICE and MORAL SUPPORT.

This is an example of why/how this is a GREAT FORUM.

If you agree with me, consider an upgrade to you membership.

Bekeart
 
DeltaCompany said:
Will post more pics soon. Just started the soak. The numbers on the yoke match. I researched that these numbers are to keep the yoke and cylinder together during manufacturing. I will have to wait till paint is removed to see how much is legible. I can only make out four digits on butt so far but I can tell there are 5 digits under the barrel just not clean enough to make out yet.
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Actually, and it's less than earth shaking in importance---may even have been "a slip of the tongue", but the numbers on the yoke match numbers on the frame---and are there to aid in keeping those two pieces together (before the serial number was applied). The cylinder came along later in the process.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Wiregrassguy said:
Yes. Round butt J frame grips that totally enclose the grip frame (target or combat) will fit. J frame grips made as panels that expose the grip frame can be mounted. But the grip panels will extend beyond the bottom of the grip frame by 1/8" and look funny. J frame grips will fit.
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Indeed they will. The only difference is that the grip frame is slightly shorter and J-frame conventional grips will slightly overlap the grip frame base. If that is bothersome, the J-frame grip bottoms can be shortened and re-shaped. Another solution is to use combat-type grips that completely enclose the grip frame. I have done that and it works well. There is a wide variety of J-frame combat style grips available in every price range and they will provide a much more comfortable and substantial grasp than conventional factory grips. That would be my primary recommendation. A third possible option is to get a pair of the black hard rubber replica plastic grips used on the old .38 top break S&W revolvers. I believe they should work OK on your BC, but I have not tried that.
 
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first-model said:
A bit of context: the original Chiefs Special was built on a modified I frame, which was the predecessor to the J frame.
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The Chiefs were NEVER built on an I frame, modified or otherwise. That myth persists, but we try to keep it stamped out. :D
They were built on the J frame. Period.


Roy, Page 224-----

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Jim Watson said:
I have seen a lot of messed up guns that can be made presentable.

But that rust inside just turns my stomach. Good luck.
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I've seen worse. I once worked on a former Birmingham AL PD M10 that when I popped off the side plate, there was enough dirt inside to pot a 'mater plant! :D

The best was I've found to clean parts like are in the OP's Chief is to use a very fine wire wheel. The only trick is that small parts can be hard to hold onto.
 
DeltaCompany said:
Any suggestions on where to get a kit or the best kit with hollow ground screwdrivers? I have searched around town locally but it looks like I will have to order offline.
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Doubtful it's the best set, but I've done ok with the Chapman sets that come in a yellow plastic box. It's a handle with various bits.
 
I have a set of hex driver bits of many types and sizes that I bought at Sears back when there was a Sears. They seem to work fine for gun screws even though they are not marked as being gunsmith bits. I imagine just about everyone already has at least one bit handle. I have probably five or six of them. My favorite is a ratcheted T-handle.
 
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Brownells is the gold standard but prices are way up since I bought mine.
The Midway-Wheeler outfit looks good.
Wheeler 43-Piece Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set

Note that these are just 1/4" hex drive, you can get more hollow ground bits from Brownells and Midway or specialty shapes from the hardware store or online. I added Torx tips from Amazon.
 
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