Congratulations!!! A couple drops of light oil on the hammer and trigger studs, along with a few hours soak, might help getting those two parts out.
Mike Priwer
Mike Priwer
Need Help with Model Identification!
- Thread starter DeltaCompany
- Start date
Earlier I guessed five digits. Wow. It likely shipped in January '52.
Your Chiefs Special has just taken the position as the first known model with a smooth ramp front sight. Yours is nearly 500 numbers lower than the previous record holder.
Thanks for sharing yours and your progress on it with us. Keep it up!
Benton Quest
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J-frame grips are not going to fit...unless you file or sand off the bottom 1/8th of an inch or so.
Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
tom turner
US Veteran
Welcome to the forum DeltaCompany! I'm enjoying your progress on your "Baby Chief" rediscovery. A lot of great folks here who will be glad to help. Best wishes!
OP
DeltaCompany
Member
J frame grips won't fit??? Any chance I can find grips that will fit without sanding?
Originals for your little Chief can certainly be found but prepare to pay the price...
...Ben- Joined
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A bit of context: the original Chiefs Special was built on a modified I frame, which was the predecessor to the J frame. The grips—while similar—are not the same.
That's why an original set of diamond service stocks for your gun tend to cost a lot more than the later J frame diamonds. Yours are earlier and scarcer.
That's why I suggested keeping the original stocks. Regardless of their condition, they're scarce wood.
Mike
That's why an original set of diamond service stocks for your gun tend to cost a lot more than the later J frame diamonds. Yours are earlier and scarcer.
That's why I suggested keeping the original stocks. Regardless of their condition, they're scarce wood.
Mike
Well, that's a bit of a fallacy.
Your Chiefs Special is a J-frame. It takes the stocks made for a 5-screw J-frame. The 4-screw J-frame stocks are ⅛" longer. (See the photo.)
Attachments
Yes. Round butt J frame grips that totally enclose the grip frame (target or combat) will fit. J frame grips made as panels that expose the grip frame can be mounted. But the panels will extend beyond the bottom of the grip frame by 1/8" and look funny. I frame grips will fit.
This is the GREATEST thread of any I remember reading
This is the GREATEST thread of any I remember reading.
OP provided PHOTOS and DETAILS.
Forum members provided GOOD ADVICE and MORAL SUPPORT.
This is an example of why/how this is a GREAT FORUM.
If you agree with me, consider an upgrade to you membership.
Bekeart
This is the GREATEST thread of any I remember reading.
OP provided PHOTOS and DETAILS.
Forum members provided GOOD ADVICE and MORAL SUPPORT.
This is an example of why/how this is a GREAT FORUM.
If you agree with me, consider an upgrade to you membership.
Bekeart
Actually, and it's less than earth shaking in importance---may even have been "a slip of the tongue", but the numbers on the yoke match numbers on the frame---and are there to aid in keeping those two pieces together (before the serial number was applied). The cylinder came along later in the process.
Ralph Tremaine
DWalt
Member
Indeed they will. The only difference is that the grip frame is slightly shorter and J-frame conventional grips will slightly overlap the grip frame base. If that is bothersome, the J-frame grip bottoms can be shortened and re-shaped. Another solution is to use combat-type grips that completely enclose the grip frame. I have done that and it works well. There is a wide variety of J-frame combat style grips available in every price range and they will provide a much more comfortable and substantial grasp than conventional factory grips. That would be my primary recommendation. A third possible option is to get a pair of the black hard rubber replica plastic grips used on the old .38 top break S&W revolvers. I believe they should work OK on your BC, but I have not tried that.
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handejector
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The Chiefs were NEVER built on an I frame, modified or otherwise. That myth persists, but we try to keep it stamped out.
They were built on the J frame. Period.
Roy, Page 224-----
Attachments
Jim Watson
Member
I have seen a lot of messed up guns that can be made presentable.
But that rust inside just turns my stomach. Good luck.
But that rust inside just turns my stomach. Good luck.
I've seen worse. I once worked on a former Birmingham AL PD M10 that when I popped off the side plate, there was enough dirt inside to pot a 'mater plant!
The best was I've found to clean parts like are in the OP's Chief is to use a very fine wire wheel. The only trick is that small parts can be hard to hold onto.
OP
DeltaCompany
Member
Doubtful it's the best set, but I've done ok with the Chapman sets that come in a yellow plastic box. It's a handle with various bits.
DWalt
Member
I have a set of hex driver bits of many types and sizes that I bought at Sears back when there was a Sears. They seem to work fine for gun screws even though they are not marked as being gunsmith bits. I imagine just about everyone already has at least one bit handle. I have probably five or six of them. My favorite is a ratcheted T-handle.
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Jim Watson
Member
Brownells is the gold standard but prices are way up since I bought mine.
The Midway-Wheeler outfit looks good.
Wheeler 43-Piece Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set
Note that these are just 1/4" hex drive, you can get more hollow ground bits from Brownells and Midway or specialty shapes from the hardware store or online. I added Torx tips from Amazon.
The Midway-Wheeler outfit looks good.
Wheeler 43-Piece Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set
Note that these are just 1/4" hex drive, you can get more hollow ground bits from Brownells and Midway or specialty shapes from the hardware store or online. I added Torx tips from Amazon.
I have that one in my gunshow box...I like it...
...Ben
