New 686+ B/C Gap - Need Advice

scruffy

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I have a dilemma with my new 686+ regarding the factory B/C gap. Input from this forum may help me with my choices.

Background: This is a fun to shoot range toy to shoot steel and paper outdoor. Will never be used for hunting or self/home defense. I have other options for that.

The gun is well put together in every respect with the exception of the B/C gap which measures a tight .012" on all chambers with the cylinder cocked at rest. I can dry fire DA past all seven with no resistance with a .012" automotive feeler gauge inserted. Gap is even top to bottom and on both sides. It measures .011" with forward pressure on the cylinder. Held to the rear it remains at .012", a .013" will not go in. Approx. .0015" end shake.

As mentioned every other aspect of this revolver is on the money. Forcing cone even and smooth, no barrel cant, carry up and timing are spot on in both SA and DA. Action si smooth wit < 12 lbs. pull and SA is 3.75 lbs. Rifling seems a little shallow, but bore is smooth and shiny with proper crown. No cosmetic issues. More importantly it is perhaps the best shooting, most accurate revolver I own. Never had to touch the factory sight settings. No shaving and I only felt a slight powder residue spitting maybe 4 times out of 50 shot with Aguila 158 gr 357 magnums. The gun does appear a little dirtier after shooting than my other S&W .357 revolvers (which all have a .006" gap) but is a pleasure to shoot.

However, the .012" gap bugs my OCD. I spoke with a very friendly and knowledgeable S&W tech rep who offered to send me a return label as their spec is .004" - .010". He said the procedure to correct it would most likely be to machine the barrel shoulder back on a lathe, reset the gap and possibly recut the forcing cone and adjust the extractor if needed. LEAD TIME at S&W is now at EIGHT weeks with a weeks summer shutdown scheduled for last week of July. The tech admitted it's a hard decision given it intended use and how well it shoots, but was willing to do whatever I decided.

What to do?

1) Keep it, shoot it and keep an eye on any splatter and or shaving. Send it in over winter months (no missing outdoor range time) if it becomes an issue.

2) Send it in now and have them address it with the real risk of creating another problem that does not now exist.

3 Sell/Trade off and look for another of the same model with a .004" - .006" gap.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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If it shoots good and does not spit powder or lead at you shoot it and be happy. This my two cents worth.
Get ready for the other OCD to flame S&W about todays QC but they have always had these problems don't let anyone tell you different. May be more common now but it has around
 
If it bothers you, send it in now, and get it over with. 12/1000" is a lot. You obviously care about the gun and would like more if it was closer to spec. What you think is what really matters here.

I would probably just shoot it, and keep an eye on the forcing cone and the top strap, but I am used to shooting guns which are less than perfect. A little extra cleaning would not bother me much either, but that's just me (shrug).

Oh and...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5Em-xoAtSM[/ame]
 
I'd leave it alone so long as it is not spitting lead or jacket material from between the cylinder face and barrel. If you think a tighter gap will result in higher velocity, you would be correct, but it is not enough to be worth the effort. You said it is cosmetically correct, no barrel cant, cylinder play is negligible, and it is very accurate. No guarantee that it would not come back from S&W with barrel canted just a bit or a roughly re-cut forcing cone.
 
If I recall correctly, S&W now considers .012 is within the "Factory limits". Since it's shooting great, I'd shoot it until it may no longer do so then get it fixed.

The tech I spoke with seemed really knowledgeable about S&W specs, repair procedures, testing for splatter from B/C gaps, etc. I told him about the conflicting info on on various forums regarding the .010" vs 012" upper spec limit and what they consider in spec for the B/C gap. He replied without hesitation and said S&W specs were .004" - .010".
 
Send it back, it won't get any better by shooting it. Is there any end shake? What is the headspace measuring?
 
Send it back, it won't get any better by shooting it. Is there any end shake? What is the headspace measuring?

Head space is .067" and end shake is .001" (.011" gap forward pressure on the cylinder and .012" gap when held to the rear). I don't want to do anything to alter those numbers like play with shims. I don't expect the gap to widen or get worse as the gun will most likely see less than 2,000 rounds of mixed .38 and .357 a year. If some other things were wrong with it I wouldn't hesitate to send it back, but everything else checks out fine.
 
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The .012" gap will forever irritate your OCD ... It will alway's bug the hell out of you and later you will kick your OCD self for not getting it fixed .

You know what OCD does ... Send It Back NOW and get it corrected ....
or forever hold your complaints .
The sooner you send it back ... the sooner the work will get done and your OCD will be Happy-Happy !
And don't be concerned about creating some other " problem" ...
They know how to correct the "problems" .
You really need help with that OCD thing ... Have some faith in S&W , they will take care of you !
Gary
 
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I would definitely send it back! .012" is just way too much. Don't know if it would mean anything but ask them to shoot for .004-006". Good luck & let us know how you made out.
 
I would seek out a reputable GS and pay to have it done right. S&W could not or would not do so. If you like guns, you want them to be done right.

^^^ This. I took it to a good gun smith I've used before. He told me he could remove the barrel, machine the shoulder in a lathe, set it back, recut the forcing and adjust the extractor and center pin if needed. He would charge $250....then he advised me to just leave it alone and shoot it. He said as long as it's not spitting or shaving there is nothing wrong with the .012" gap and I would be wasting my money for zero noticeable gain.

I'm taking his advice. Thanks to everyone for their input. It's why I like this forum and I do appreciate it.
 
^^^ This. I took it to a good gun smith I've used before. He told me he could remove the barrel, machine the shoulder in a lathe, set it back, recut the forcing and adjust the extractor and center pin if needed. He would charge $250....then he advised me to just leave it alone and shoot it. He said as long as it's not spitting or shaving there is nothing wrong with the .012" gap and I would be wasting my money for zero noticeable gain.

I'm taking his advice. Thanks to everyone for their input. It's why I like this forum and I do appreciate it.


Smart decision. It's not broken, so don't fix it!
 
Send to smith and they will set the barrel back to a more acceptable amount. They are pretty quick usually . It is a new gun and the gap will probably get larger over time. Have it done right at no charge. It’s a no brainer. Only then will you really be happy with the gun and you know that .
 
Send to smith and they will set the barrel back to a more acceptable amount. They are pretty quick usually . It is a new gun and the gap will probably get larger over time. Have it done right at no charge. It’s a no brainer. Only then will you really be happy with the gun and you know that .


Eight weeks minimum S&W turnaround per their CS not counting summer shutdown. As far as being done right, I've read too many stories on this and other forums of fixed guns being shipped right back for another problem that didn't exist when they sent it in for repair the first time. If I wanted it done, I'll have local smith do it. The one I trust, told me at .012", he would leavy it alone if all else is fine.
 
Interesting

You could put 2 .004 shims in between the cylinder and extractor and shorten the crane barrel the same amount. This would keep the headspace and endshake the same, and make the cylinder gap .004. Very cheap, very easy.

Is this a durable correction? Is there an issue with the cartridges head spacing off the star, such as the star loosening? Any problem with less case-head support?

I've considered this in the past, but haven't tried it because I don't like the idea of the case being held back by the star, and part of the head being unsupported.

I have no objective reason to think this wouldn't work, just seems wrong.
 
Eight weeks minimum S&W turnaround per their CS not counting summer shutdown. As far as being done right, I've read too many stories on this and other forums of fixed guns being shipped right back for another problem that didn't exist when they sent it in for repair the first time. If I wanted it done, I'll have local smith do it. The one I trust, told me at .012", he would leavy it alone if all else is fine.

To each his own but I have had good luck when I have sent guns back to Smith and I have sent a number back over the years.. A couple of months is nothing really in the big scheme of things but it does piss you off when it is a new gun. I have been there.
 
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