And so what’s this 4” renickeled Triple Lock revolver worth?

[mrcvs]

Since refinished revolvers and their value seem to be the subject matter of numerous threads lately, what's the value of this revolver today?

Has been renickeled and, in places, chromed. The markings on the barrel are correct for a 4" barrel—that which can still be seen from wear and buffing prior to refinish. Sight has been filed as is lower than original. I got it with mother of pearl stocks and changed them to wear appropriate N frame stocks with medallions.

This revolver letters as nickeled and with a 4" barrel.

A Triple Lock revolver with a 4" barrel and nickeled is uncommon with only about 100 to 125 manufactured, but this revolver is, to put it mildly, a bit on the rough side.

 

[JH1951]

I would likely hit that baby with some Flitz and Renwax, then ask the question again.

 

[series guy]

Looks sweet to me. Take it to the range before you clean it.

 

[mrcvs]

I would likely hit that baby with some Flitz and Renwax, then ask the question again.

I tend to leave revolvers "as is" and this, would not Flitz. Renaissance wax, however, is a favorite!

 

[mrcvs]

Looks sweet to me. Take it to the range before you clean it.

I have fired it at the range, from time to time.

 

[Mbrgr1]

Well........

I like em rough!


She and I would get along just fine.

 

[SAFireman]

It looks like it is had an interesting life. Send it to me, I'll give it a good home

 

[A10]

I don't see anyone giving you a value yet. To me, if it were a 5 inch, I'd say maybe 450 to 6. Being a factory 4 inch adds interest, so maybe 7. If there's solid LE provenance the price could go up from there depending on who owned it.

But that's just me.

 

[LEO918]

Here's mine, a refinished 5" with Ivory. It came with factory letter and letters as Nickel, shipped to New Orleans. I have about $900 in it.

 

[Venom6]

Around here, even in its condition, that would sell easily at a show or in a shop for over $1k, given its rarity; especially with the MOP grips (which, IMHO, you should reinstall). That is a way cool revolver. Does it shoot to the sights?

 

[murphydog]

It's a bit of a dilemma to value. It is probably worth more than a 5 or 6.5" gun in equal condition but someone looking for a "well-loved" shooter gun may not pay more, and a collector would probably seek out an example in nicer condition.

That said, it is probably worth somewhere in the low $1000 range to the right buyer.

 

[Hondo44]

Any original 4" TL is a prize.

Flitz may not bring it back but at least it would remove the black tarnish that is not original to the gun.

I would consider removing the nickel from the hammer, trigger and 3rd lock cam plate. That's very easy to do.

Have you dated it with the serial #?

 

[lamarw]

Do whatever Hondo44 recommends. Here is the before and after my compliance with his advice. Mine does have some of the original finish but is not a 4".

 

[mrcvs]

Any original 4" TL is a prize.

Flitz may not bring it back but at least it would remove the black tarnish that is not original to the gun.

I would consider removing the nickel from the hammer, trigger and 3rd lock cam plate. That's very easy to do.

Have you dated it with the serial #?

I'll post a photograph of the factory letter that came with the revolver this weekend. It shipped in 1915.

How would you remove that nickel and what would you do with the finish underneath?

 

[mrcvs]

Around here, even in its condition, that would sell easily at a show or in a shop for over $1k, given its rarity; especially with the MOP grips (which, IMHO, you should reinstall). That is a way cool revolver. Does it shoot to the sights?

I think I have $800 into it as purchased about 8 years ago, and it included a factory letter. IIRC the seller wanted a nice round number for it, like $1000 and I said I like nice round numbers too like $500 and we settled somewhere in the middle.

The mother of pearl stocks are removed as I use this as a CCW from time to time and don't want to damage the mother of pearl stocks. IIRC, the fit suggested these were not fitted to this revolver by the retailer, and, of course, NO N frame mother of pearl stocks are factory.

I just tossed this out there to see what others thought. I don't intend to sell it anytime soon.

 

[mrcvs]

It's a bit of a dilemma to value. It is probably worth more than a 5 or 6.5" gun in equal condition but someone looking for a "well-loved" shooter gun may not pay more, and a collector would probably seek out an example in nicer condition.

That said, it is probably worth somewhere in the low $1000 range to the right buyer.

Knowing a 4" Triple Lock revolver with nickel finish is rare, or at least uncommon, I purchased this revolver despite the condition and it's, in fact, the only revolver in my collection that does not have factory applied finish.

And, in time, I acquired a 4" Triple Lock revolver with nickel finish in much better condition.

 

[Hondo44]

I'll post a photograph of the factory letter that came with the revolver this weekend. It shipped in 1915.

How would you remove that nickel and what would you do with the finish underneath?

Brownells sells an inexpensive kit to plate and remove nickel plating or take the parts to a plating shop. As I recall they just reverse the polarity used for plating to take off old plating.

Notice lamarw's gun above where the black corrosion used to be. The bare metal is polished bright and blends quite well with the nickel.

 

[steelslaver]

Use a 12v battery or batter charger, some battery acid aand a piece of lead or copper. Attach wire from positive to part and the negative to the lead. Lower lead to bottom of glass jar or bowl full of battery acid, stick in part and a couple minutes later take it out and rinse it off well. Inspect for any remaining plate. I have done several parts and it is pretty easy

Here is smiling Larry from Midway USA doing it to a chromed part
How to De-plate Nickel Plated Gun Parts | The Model 67 Project | MidwayUSA - YouTube

 

[mrcvs]

Use a 12v battery or batter charger, some battery acid aand a piece of lead or copper. Attach wire from positive to part and the negative to the lead. Lower lead to bottom of glass jar or bowl full of battery acid, stick in part and a couple minutes later take it out and rinse it off well. Inspect for any remaining plate. I have done several parts and it is pretty easy

Here is smiling Larry from Midway USA doing it to a chromed part
How to De-plate Nickel Plated Gun Parts | The Model 67 Project | MidwayUSA - YouTube

Now I recall reading about how to do this, in the past. The chrome is ghastly, and this is a logical approach.