S&W Model 3 Russian Cylinder lock-up

[blackpowder]

Hello all around,

As far as I know, the cylinder should be locked with the hammer in the down position. When the hammer is pulled back in the "half cock" position, which allows the Top-latch to be raised, the cylinder should spin free in both directions, and the gun can be opened. When the hammer is completely cocked, the cylinder is locked again. So, as far as I know, the cylinder should be free to spin only in the half-cock mode. On my gun, the cylinder can always be moved when the gun is closed and only locks when the hammer is fully cocked.

Anyone out there owning a model 3 Russian? Would appreciate feedback how this works on yours.

Thanks

 

[mmaher94087]

Your assessment is correct. It sounds like you have either a chipped (broken) hammer sear or trigger sear. Possibly the cylinder stop (bolt) is bad. Any and all of these parts could be the problem. If I were a gambling person, I'd bet on a broken hammer. I usually lose bets.

The revolver will need to be taken apart to ascertain what broke.

 

[BMur]

Trouble shooting

The cylinder should never spin in both directions. Only clockwise. If it spins in both directions you have multiple problems associated with wear and will require adding metal to worn pieces. I've done this many times with my welder. You should always have a fully functional S&W in your collection to compare parts with.
When you purchase or have an example that does not function you can compare parts with the functional gun to see what's wrong. Makes life much easier.

Murph

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


There were two different cylinder stop bolt systems used in the
No. 3 depending when it was made. Early No. 3's had a stop
bolt that worked off a cam on the hammer but later ones worked
off the trigger. Of course, if this is a New Model No. 3, then it has
the later style stop bolt (and a rebounding hammer).

As previously mentioned, the revolver will have to come apart to
ascertain what is the problem (I suspect the sear nose of the
trigger has been broken off).

If you can post pictures (and you're willing to do so), take some
pictures of the position of the trigger (in relation to the trigger
guard) in full, half and not cocked. If the nose of the trigger is
broken off, the trigger will rest a little farther out away from the
rear trigger guard bow.


Cheers!
Webb

 

[mmaher94087]

The trigger sear is usually the problem and is the easiest to repair. Often when the trigger sear is broken, the half cock notch on the hammer is broken also. Any filing or heavy stoning of these sears will affect the timing and lock up of these revolvers.

A quick test will help diagnose the problem(s). Hammer down. Pull the trigger slightly. Does the cylinder lock in battery? Place the hammer in half cock. Can the trigger be easily pulled? Lastly, slowly pull the hammer rearward as to cock the arm. Does the trigger hold full cock before the cylinder locks in battery? Your answers will help diagnose the problem but clear photos of the mechanism in the various stages of being cocked will also help.

 

[blackpowder]

I forgot to mention that the Gun is a modern copy from Uberti/Italy. I don't know if this is important as all parts should match the parts of the originals, I have been told. But perhaps there are slight differences - I don't know.

Attached are 4 pics of the various stages in cocking the weapon.

1. Hammer completely down (in this position, the cylinder can be rotated counterclockwise but not clockwise, and, it locks up when the trigger is slightly pulled)
2. placing the hammer one notch back in the "safe-cock" position - same result: cylinder moves counterclockwise but not clockwise, pulling the trigger, locks the cylinder. (the only purpose I can see is that this position prevents the firing pin from accidentally striking the cartridge primer).
3. Placing the hammer in half-cock: now the cylinder can be freely rotated in both directions and the trigger moves forward a bit and can not be pulled. Also, the gun can now be opened in the half-cock position).
4. Placing the hammer in full-cock, locks the cylinder until the trigger is pulled.

As far as I understand the mechanics of this gun, the cylinder should move only in the half-cock position.

again, many thanks for your help and inputs!

 

[mmaher94087]

I'm out. Uberti heavily reengineered the mechanism and added the "hammer block safety". I've never worked on the Uberti copy. Sorry.

 

[blackpowder]

I'm out. Uberti heavily reengineered the mechanism and added the "hammer block safety". I've never worked on the Uberti copy. Sorry.

Thank you just the same.
I was not aware Uberti significantly changed the mechanism. Does anyone have the Uberti version to compare. Does anyone know how the Uberti mechanism is supposed to work? Thanks!

 

[mmaher94087]

Dude, I'm bumping this up to the top again as I suggest that you contact Uberti for the diagnostic for the repair. I wish that I could help but it is beyond my experience.

 

[blackpowder]

I understand, thanks, maybe someone will chime in who knows and shoots Ubertis. I understand they are very popular among Cowboy Action Shooters.