.32 H&R coming back to the J frame - Ultimate Carry by Lipsey
- Thread starter Dump1567
- Start date
With recent CA court cases going our way, manufactures are again able to submit applications to get new guns on the CA roster. I am sure S&W wants to capture a chunk of the CA market. Revolvers are easy, autos must have "cartridge loaded indicator", magazine disconnect, manual safety, etc.
Not dreaming.
On a different forum where it's being discussed, individuals directly and indirectly involved with this project have confirmed these Js are the front end of a proposed -- not yet approved, pending how these Js go in the marketplace -- family of similarly-styled revolvers, including in a K-frame.
StakeOut
US Veteran
I'm an old timer so it might not surprise many of you that I prefer all steel,double action and hammers with spurs but thankfully we have choices
Yeah, I was wondering that too. They already have the 357 J-frames with the enlongated cylinder, so that seems a more logical choice. I mean, you can still shoot 32 H&R in a 327 magnum, so why not make it magnum capable?
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Doug M.
Member
I think that was explained by Nyeti on the first page.
Ammo: make your comparisons reasonably valid. LRN is generally not a good performer, and as far as I am concerned the only reason to buy very much is to reload with effective projectiles. I saw one poster comment on their belief that a few carry wadcutters for defense, but they are in fact a decent load for that purpose because of their shape and controllability. The same with standard velocity SWC. If the load you use is not one you can shoot well under stress, it is less than useful; misses stop no one unless they are scared away, and misses present real risk to others.
Ammo: make your comparisons reasonably valid. LRN is generally not a good performer, and as far as I am concerned the only reason to buy very much is to reload with effective projectiles. I saw one poster comment on their belief that a few carry wadcutters for defense, but they are in fact a decent load for that purpose because of their shape and controllability. The same with standard velocity SWC. If the load you use is not one you can shoot well under stress, it is less than useful; misses stop no one unless they are scared away, and misses present real risk to others.
riverrat38
US Veteran
See posts #8,12, and 16.
The Scandium frame would put the cost into the 4 figure range.
327 Federal pressure is 45 kpsi.
73,
Rick
It's almost a great idea, but if they aren't going to go .327 magnum (not saying they should), then building the gun as an I-frame could have made it a smaller, lighter, and ultimately stronger package.
Even if they had taken the lazy way out and just shortened the cylinder and lengthened the barrel stub it would have been some help.
Even if they had taken the lazy way out and just shortened the cylinder and lengthened the barrel stub it would have been some help.
Why is that? I only ask because I had both a 432 and a 431 and they weren't remarkable in any way.
Roper1628
Member
No problem
I’ve been reloading 85 and 100 grain XTP for years for my Ruger Single Six.
I’ve been reloading 85 and 100 grain XTP for years for my Ruger Single Six.
Roper1628
Member
For those set up to reload, Starline has brass for every 32 caliber. Hornady’s 50th has loads for each one. They also make their XTP. Sierra makes a 98 grain HBWC. Everglades puts out a plated 85 grain RNFP. Lots of options. And Dillon has dies…just sayin.
K-frame to 327 mag
What was the process of converting a K frame to 327 mag?
Did you personally perform the conversion?
If not what gunsmith did you engage?
I like both the 32 H&R mag and have 2, a ruger single six and a smith Model 16-4
also like the 327 and have 2 a ruger sp 101 and a single 7 I would like a K frame 327
Like this K frame I made up in 327 mag
What was the process of converting a K frame to 327 mag?
Did you personally perform the conversion?
If not what gunsmith did you engage?
I like both the 32 H&R mag and have 2, a ruger single six and a smith Model 16-4
also like the 327 and have 2 a ruger sp 101 and a single 7 I would like a K frame 327
Glenn R. McMannly
Member
Just watched a snub nose gel test between .32 H&R and .38 Special.
You couldn’t tell any difference in the wound track. The “little” .32 did plenty well. An extra shot plus lessened recoil too. It’s a winner.
You couldn’t tell any difference in the wound track. The “little” .32 did plenty well. An extra shot plus lessened recoil too. It’s a winner.
I have done several, I use K22 cylinders, which gives you a recessed 327 cylinder. I built 2 of them using the J&G gunsmith specials which were re imported 10-7 frames without barrels that they sold for around $160 apiece.
I made the barrels by buying a 32-20 barrel then taking K frame barrels turning the most of the length I wanted to something like 3/8", then the a short section to .540 and treading it at 36 to the inch so it would thread in a K frame. Then I cut the treads off a K frame barrel and bored them out and silver soldered the piece I made inside. The is a thread here somewhere. But look
The hard part about making 32 cal barrels is finding ,312 cal barrel at a reasonable cost. Most of the companies that make blanks want quite a bit per inch for .312 barrel as it is an off caliber,
But, I have been studying on how they cut rifling and plan to built a machine to rifle short handgun barrels. Then I could simply ream out K22 barrels and cut new rifling in them. There are very few guys that do that and they have long waiting lists.
But, I have been studying on how they cut rifling and plan to built a machine to rifle short handgun barrels. Then I could simply ream out K22 barrels and cut new rifling in them. There are very few guys that do that and they have long waiting lists.
Steelslaver thank you. Was able to find your original post as well K frame 327 project
How did you settle on the dimensions?
What is your thinking on silver solder vs sleeve retention compound?
How did you settle on the dimensions?
What is your thinking on silver solder vs sleeve retention compound?
I went with those dimensions after relining a couple of Stevens 22 lr barrels. I then did a lot of thinking, measuring and planning before doing the first 32 barrel
I also did a bunch of reading on lining barrels. Silver solder is old school. Most guys now use either a high grade epoxy or red Loctite to fix the liner in more powerful rifles like the 30-30. 38-40 etc, and those are with a liner with no step that begin rigth at the front of a chamber. With this stepped setup there is no way the liner can be pushed forward into the sleeve or the "sleeve" pulled off the liner. As they liner is a tight fit in sleeve the amount of force needed to bend the assembly would be very close to the amount need to deform a factory 32 cal barrel and more than that need to deform a 38 cal barrel
I dit it that way because of the barrel shank forcing cone dimensions. If the liner went all the way though at one size the threaded section of original barrel material would be very thin or the liner really thin at the beginning of forcing cone.
Using my method the barrel shank it full strength as it is exactly the same as a factory barrel, plus the heavy section ahead of the frame makes it so there is more strength at the frame to barrel junction than if you went straight to liner OD at barrel's rear shoulder.
I believe this method is the best way to make a lined 32 Barrel and is every bit as strong or stronger than any 2 piece barrel used in the newer guns like my 325s or the model 69s etc
I also did a bunch of reading on lining barrels. Silver solder is old school. Most guys now use either a high grade epoxy or red Loctite to fix the liner in more powerful rifles like the 30-30. 38-40 etc, and those are with a liner with no step that begin rigth at the front of a chamber. With this stepped setup there is no way the liner can be pushed forward into the sleeve or the "sleeve" pulled off the liner. As they liner is a tight fit in sleeve the amount of force needed to bend the assembly would be very close to the amount need to deform a factory 32 cal barrel and more than that need to deform a 38 cal barrel
I dit it that way because of the barrel shank forcing cone dimensions. If the liner went all the way though at one size the threaded section of original barrel material would be very thin or the liner really thin at the beginning of forcing cone.
Using my method the barrel shank it full strength as it is exactly the same as a factory barrel, plus the heavy section ahead of the frame makes it so there is more strength at the frame to barrel junction than if you went straight to liner OD at barrel's rear shoulder.
I believe this method is the best way to make a lined 32 Barrel and is every bit as strong or stronger than any 2 piece barrel used in the newer guns like my 325s or the model 69s etc
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Boscobarbell
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Could you share which rounds those are?
