Model 27 - Hammer Stuck

[DeepBlue99]

Had a bit of an issue at the range today while shooting my 70's production Model 27.

While pulling back hammer for single action pull, hammer became stuck half way and would not move in either direction. I'm NOT sure exactly what I did, but after several tries I did manage to pull it back to full cock. At this point, I tried dry firing several times and it happened again. Stuck about half way to full cock.

With cylinder open, I put a drop of oil into the hand slot which returned function to normal.

Wondering if I should have it checked out by a gunsmith now. It is a fairly old revolver. I've had it about 20 yrs and I never had it open for service. No idea if the previous owner ever did.

What do you guys think? Did I just dry it out and it needed some oil or does it need a bit more help?

 

[Muley Gil]

You need to pull the side plate and look inside.

Don't do it if you don't have gunsmithing screwdrivers though. Take it to a pro.

 

[45Smashemflat]

Yup, I’d be taking a peek inside. Sounds gummy.

 

[DeepBlue99]

You need to pull the side plate and look inside.

Don't do it if you don't have gunsmithing screwdrivers though. Take it to a pro.

I don't have the tools. But even if I did, I don't believe that I am qualified to diagnose or even spot anything outside of norm should I encounter it. Although, I have detail stripped many auto pistols, I guess messing around with revolver's guts is outside of my comfort zone. I would prefer to leave that to someone skilled in this area.

It does seem to feel and function as normal right now and if I'm being honest, it might have been an extended length of time since the last time I dropped oil in there. Wondering if its just neglect on my part that's caused this.

 

[RMFnLA]

Check the mainspring strain screw.

When they back out the mainspring doesn’t bend enough and can cause the hammer to bind.

Ultimately breaks the claw that engages the hammer stirrup, so check it before any more dry firing.

 

[DeepBlue99]

Check the mainspring strain screw.

When they back out the mainspring doesn’t bend enough and can cause the hammer to bind.

Ultimately breaks the claw that engages the hammer stirrup, so check it before any more dry firing.

Mainspring strain screw appears to be pretty tight. I know some people like to loosen them to lighten up the DA pull. Doesn't appear to be the case here.

I suppose it won't hurt to have it checked out by a good gunsmith and I certainly don't might paying for one to take a look. Trouble is that I don't know any that work on revolvers. Will have to ask around. Unless someone here can recommend a place I can mail it out to. I don't mind a month or two turn around. Would rather have a reputable gunsmith who knows old revolvers vs some local hack.

 

[RCL-09]

Are you sure it is the hammer that is binding? Not the cylinder?

 

[DeepBlue99]

Pretty sure. Once I was able to lower the hammer, the cylinder opened without any issues at all.

 

[Muley Gil]

Pretty sure. Once I was able to lower the hammer, the cylinder opened without any issues at all.

Does it rotate freely?

 

[gmarshall99]

Does it rotate freely?

A high primer will cause this type of problem also. Were you shooting reloads or remanufactured rounds?

 

[RCL-09]

Pretty sure. Once I was able to lower the hammer, the cylinder opened without any issues at all.

Will the cylinder rotate freely when locked in place?

 

[SmithNut]

You might try opening the cylinder and pushing the extractor in and wiping the underside of the star as well as the surface where it mates to the cylinder. Any build up of powder and other dirt will tie up the cylinder making it hard to rotate it. If the cylinder doesn't rotate that will also keep the hammer from coming all the way back.

 

[DeepBlue99]

Will the cylinder rotate freely when locked in place?

Assume you mean... pull back hammer with cylinder closed to half way and try to rotate the cylinder?

Yep, it turns freely.

 

[DeepBlue99]

You might try opening the cylinder and pushing the extractor in and wiping the underside of the star as well as the surface where it mates to the cylinder. Any build up of powder and other dirt will tie up the cylinder making it hard to rotate it. If the cylinder doesn't rotate that will also keep the hammer from coming all the way back.

Interesting... That was the other place I put a drop of oil on after first occurrence. I have since cleaned the revolver thoroughly post range session. Have not been able to replicate this since initial occurrence.

 

[SmithNut]

Interesting... That was the other place I put a drop of oil on after first occurrence. I have since cleaned the revolver thoroughly post range session. Have not been able to replicate this since initial occurrence.

That area under the ejector star should be as clean/dry as possible, if you use oil there you will find that it will collect powder blast "dirt" and will force the ejector star to push up against the recoil shield which then bogs the whole works up. At the first sign of a gritty trigger pull, or a stoppage, I always open the cylinder and clean both surfaces which usually gets things well and good again.

 

[scooter123]

Have you ever used WD-40 to lube/clean this gun? If so that's the likely cause of your problem, because it's a drying oil intended to be a Rust Preventative. The original name for this goop is Water Displacing Oil formula 40.

Beyond that issue a good professional cleaning is in order so find a good revolver smith and "get her done".

 

[DeepBlue99]

Have you ever used WD-40 to lube/clean this gun? If so that's the likely cause of your problem, because it's a drying oil intended to be a Rust Preventative. The original name for this goop is Water Displacing Oil formula 40.

Beyond that issue a good professional cleaning is in order so find a good revolver smith and "get her done".

Never used WD40 on any of my firearms. I typically go with G96 or similar. Have been for many years.

Finally decided to stop screwing around and took this revolver in for a quick check up. Couple of things stood out. The star is a bit beat up, not much but it may be enough to bind up the hammer. Additionally, and this might be the true culprit... cylinder advancement arm is a bit rounded off. Its not sharp at all. The person I had shown it to did not have the parts to address these items as this is a 1973 production revolver. But I did get an introduction to a local gunsmith who has the right expertise and parts to fix this right up. We'll see how that goes.

 

[DeepBlue99]

Interesting development...

Got revolver back from the gunsmith today. No issue found, no charge.

Looks like he cleaned it and it seems a lot more precise. Otherwise, it's perfectly fine as is.

Good news I suppose, but not what I expected. I suppose its possible it was a bit dry when hammer got bound up as I was not able to replicate after adding a bit of oil.

Figured I'd let you guys know.

 

[Model19man]

Sounds like you picked the right guy. Honesty goes a long ways.

 

[DeepBlue99]

Honestly, I didn't expect this. 100% sure it happened at least twice during that session. Now I'm wondering... did I short stroke it?

Either way, it seems to be working better than before now. So happy ending I guess .