"Smithaconda" - is it possible?

MagnumForce73

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A while back, I learned of a special type of Model 19 known as a "Smython" or "Smolt", essentially a Model 19 with a Colt Python barrel. I've been wondering, though: is it possible to put a Colt Anaconda barrel on a Model 29 and make a "Smithaconda"?
 
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I have heard or seen one but the gunsmith members here should know if the conversion is possible.
 
Darned near anything is possible with enough skill and money. Whether it is worthwhile to do is a personal question. The old "Smolts" and other barrel swaps of that nature might have been worthwhile to a serious PPC competitor, but I doubt most of us mere mortals can make use of or even prove the purported improved performance.
 
Speaking of the devil. I have a model 29-3,that I took the barrel off of, on my bench at home and a 44 Colt Anaconda barrel that I am going to cut down the 5" and thread it to .670-36, so it will thread onto the 29 frame. I will also need to open up the slot in under lug so the thicker Smith ejector rod will work and install a ball detent in the yoke. It is really not much difference than fitting a python barrel to a K or L frame. I will probably have to machine the angle of the rib from the flat where front sight mounts to where it meets the frame for that to come out just right. As the Anaconda barrel is stainless I am going to use a stainless 629 cylinder, ejector rod and thumb piece to make it a pinto.

Anaconda barrel shanks have larger threads than N frame S&Ws, so you could just turn therm down and thread them to fit. When you go to cutting the Python and Anaconda barrels your choices of length have to be adjusted because of the slots in the rib. Don't want any free hanging rib on either end and while it is possible to cut either or both ends, cutting both would be a major pain.

I would rather do it with an 45 colt Anaconda barrel, but got the 44 barrel in trade for setting up a 8" Python barrel to thread onto an N frame. Guy wanted it about 5" so I cut it off a little longer than that which was right where a opening in the rib was. With that piece of rib gone, I set it up on centers in the lathe and turned it to .670then threaded at 36 to the inch and cut a new slot for ejector rod in the under lug on my mill. Left the shank long as he had the ability to fit the barrel once it was threaded and adjust the gap.

I don't really have much interest in 44 mags. But, I have also started collecting up the knowledge and pieces I will need to set up the tooling and jigs needed to bore out and rifle handgun barrels to larger calibers. You can't just order any of it anywhere. So there is hope it will eventually be just what I want it to be.

Just 5 more weeks before I finish this job and get back home to shop. Stay tuned for more completely unnecessary gun modifications that must absolutely terrorize some of the purists.

OH, by the way. Accuracy? Neither my 4" or 6" Smolts show any better or worse accuracy than stock S&W 357s or 38s when using a machine rest. I think part of the whole deal was, if you BELIEVE it will shoot better it will. Choke barrel, different twist etc etc all Voodoo, when your talking about 148 gr wad-cutters at 700fps between 7 and 50 yard. The twist rate maybe a bit. If there is any choke it doesn't show with a pin gauges so it must be pretty small IF it exists. There are a lot of other things that affect accuracy more. IMHO
 
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Ruining two good revolvers to make one...


How can buying a loose barrel ruin a revolver???

What good is a revolver that just takes up space in a drawer. Just how much is a plain Jane 29-3 worth anyway?

Why not just tie a brick to it? The added weight will be about the same.[/QUOTE said:
I will bet you good money that when I am done my anchor will shoot every bit as well as any of your factory guns and be a lot more interesting than a gun that anyone with a few bucks and no imagination can have.

Some people are satisfied with ordinary, some are not. But, innovation, improvements and superior products were NEVER produced by or for those satisfied with ordinary. Colt was satisfied with cap and balls and believed that their customers would be happy with them too, Rollin White and S&W were not. Neither was John Browning. The list is endless. The list of those who were satisfied with the ordinary is endless too, just nobody remembers or cares who is on it.
 
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I made a 44 Mag Ruger 29. Put a Smith 8 3/8” 44 mag barrel on a Ruger SUPER BLACKHAWK single action which I ended up making a 7 1/2” barrel after re-threading. Milled off the extractor rod shroud and attached a 5” Ruger ejector rod/housing from a 10” Ruger SBH. I polished to a high gloss finish for the owner to send off for bluing. But he liked it so much in the white that he never had it blued. Never rusted which in my experience is typical for a highly polished gun surface with normal care.

I have a photo I can email to anyone willing to post it here.
 
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I built a 44 Auto Mag model 29 for shooting bowling pins. It has a ported slab sided bull barrel with a shortened Wichita Rib on top, action job, bobbed hammer, and trigger guard hook to help control recoil. It uses modified 45 ACP moon clips to hold the brass. The frame is finished with electroless nickel, a very good, but forgotten gun finish.

The brass was made from cut down and reamed .308 rifle. It took 2 months part time after work to make 500 brass. I didn't get to work on them every night. There was no brass available at the time. Now Starline makes it. It was loaded with 300 gr. cast and lubed .429 lead going 920 fps. That's around 275 power factor. Those will take off any bowling pin on the planet with authority.

protocall_design-albums-protocall-design-picture21114-44-auto-mag.jpg


protocall_design-albums-protocall-design-picture21115-44-auto-mag.jpg


protocall_design-albums-protocall-design-picture21116-44-auto-mag-trigger-guard.jpg
 
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Speaking of the devil. I have a model 29-3,that I took the barrel off of, on my bench at home and a 44 Colt Anaconda barrel that I am going to cut down the 5" and thread it to .670-36, so it will thread onto the 29 frame. I will also need to open up the slot in under lug so the thicker Smith ejector rod will work and install a ball detent in the yoke. It is really not much difference than fitting a python barrel to a K or L frame. I will probably have to machine the angle of the rib from the flat where front sight mounts to where it meets the frame for that to come out just right. As the Anaconda barrel is stainless I am going to use a stainless 629 cylinder, ejector rod and thumb piece to make it a pinto.

Anaconda barrel shanks have larger threads than N frame S&Ws, so you could just turn therm down and thread them to fit. When you go to cutting the Python and Anaconda barrels your choices of length have to be adjusted because of the slots in the rib. Don't want any free hanging rib on either end and while it is possible to cut either or both ends, cutting both would be a major pain.

I would rather do it with an 45 colt Anaconda barrel, but got the 44 barrel in trade for setting up a 8" Python barrel to thread onto an N frame. Guy wanted it about 5" so I cut it off a little longer than that which was right where a opening in the rib was. With that piece of rib gone, I set it up on centers in the lathe and turned it to .670then threaded at 36 to the inch and cut a new slot for ejector rod in the under lug on my mill. Left the shank long as he had the ability to fit the barrel once it was threaded and adjust the gap.

I don't really have much interest in 44 mags. But, I have also started collecting up the knowledge and pieces I will need to set up the tooling and jigs needed to bore out and rifle handgun barrels to larger calibers. You can't just order any of it anywhere. So there is hope it will eventually be just what I want it to be.

Just 5 more weeks before I finish this job and get back home to shop. Stay tuned for more completely unnecessary gun modifications that must absolutely terrorize some of the purists.

OH, by the way. Accuracy? Neither my 4" or 6" Smolts show any better or worse accuracy than stock S&W 357s or 38s when using a machine rest. I think part of the whole deal was, if you BELIEVE it will shoot better it will. Choke barrel, different twist etc etc all Voodoo, when your talking about 148 gr wad-cutters at 700fps between 7 and 50 yard. The twist rate maybe a bit. If there is any choke it doesn't show with a pin gauges so it must be pretty small IF it exists. There are a lot of other things that affect accuracy more. IMHO

What a wonderful post. I spent almost 20 years in a machine shop and finished that phase of my life as a miscellaneous machinist. I think very few folks can comprehend the skills and tools required to attempt and then complete such a conversion of parts. Kudos, sir.
 
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I never planned to do it. But, when the offer of the barrel came, I gave it some thought and figured why not. The 29-3 has just sit in the safe since I bought it. I have a 4" 629-1 if I want to shoot a stocker 44 mag. To me working on them is far more interesting than shooting them.

Amen to that. Even just thinking up ways to use parts of same manufacturer in different combinations to come up with models the manufacturer didn’t make, or make yet.

Just a few examples:

50 years after first building .44 specials on the old model midsize frame, Ruger finally offered .44 special in their new model mid frame flattop Blackhawks and New Vaqueros.

Or model 34 .22 Kit Guns with 3 1/2” barrel from the model 43 Airweight Kit Gun.

Or .32 H&R mags on .32 long hand ejector J frames before S&W made them.
 
I made a 44 Mag Ruger 29. Put a Smith 8 3/8” 44 mag barrel on a Ruger SUPER BLACKHAWK single action which I ended up making a 7 1/2” barrel after re-threading. Milled off the extractor rod shroud and attached a 5” Ruger ejector rod/housing from a 10” Ruger SBH. I polished to a high gloss finish for the owner to send off for bluing. But he liked it so much in the white that he never had it blued. Never rusted which in my experience is typical for a highly polished gun surface with normal care.

I have a photo I can email to anyone willing to post it here.

EDIT: I mixed up projects: this one has the standard 4” ejector rod housing. Photos up soon.

I put the 5” on a 5 1/2” SBH where it is even with the end of the barrel.
 
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