Reaming?

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I’ve got a Blackhawk cylinder I’d like reamed. Can’t seem to find anyone local here to take on the work.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I know DougGuy no longer does cylinder work due to medical issues.

-Glenn
 
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It would be helpful to know where you're at and what the starting chamber is and what the ending chamber would be.

I would need the throats miked and compared to the barrel. I don’t own the correct pin gauges for the job. I have been experiencing leading and mediocre accuracy. I might also want an 11 degree forcing cone.

Can anyone recommend a proper sixgun smith that isn’t in the wait time of years?
 
Hate to hear that Doug is having medical issues.He has done really good work for me in the past.
 
I would need the throats miked and compared to the barrel. I don’t own the correct pin gauges for the job.

I have been experiencing leading and mediocre accuracy. I might also want an 11 degree forcing cone.

You don't need pin gauges, you need to slug the barrel and if the barrel slug will pass through the cylinder throats with little or no pressure they are as big as they need to be.

Leading and poor accuracy with lead bullets are most frequently the result of the bullets being too soft, less than 12 Brinell, undersized, or poorly lubricated. Bullets that are too hard, over 20 Brinell, can also result in leading as they are too hard to "bump up" to fill the barrel rifling and result in blow-by melting the exterior of the bullets. I prefer bullets cast to 12 to 15 Brinell. As long as bullet fit is proper 15 Brinell is adequate for any cast bullet shooting, including any of the magnums! Loads that are too light will not bump-up the bullets to properly obturate (seal) in the bore will result in leading and poor accuracy too.

Bullets should be sized .001" to .002" larger then throat diameter, not barrel groove diameter. Most shooters and commercial casters size bullets too small! Address the bullet issues first before making irreversible changes to the gun. An 11degree forcing cone is not magic either. The factory angle is perfectly adequate most of the time, as long as it is large enough. I have tried most of the commercial bullet lubes and the best of them all is Saeco Green. None of the rest do what they claim!!!

I have been casting and shooting lead bullets since 1959. I have shot several hundred thousand cast bullets. I know what I am talking about.
 
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You don't need pin gauges, you need to slug the barrel and if the barrel slug will pass through the cylinder throats with little or no pressure they are as big as they need to be.

Leading and poor accuracy with lead bullets are most frequently the result of the bullets being too soft, less than 12 Brinell, undersized, or poorly lubricated. Bullets that are too hard, over 20 Brinell, can also result in leading as they are too hard to "bump up" to fill the barrel rifling and result in blow-by melting the exterior of the bullets. I prefer bullets cast to 12 to 15 Brinell. As long as bullet fit is proper 15 Brinell is adequate for any cast bullet shooting, including any of the magnums! Loads that are too light will not bump-up the bullets to properly obturate (seal) in the bore will result in leading and poor accuracy too.

Bullets should be sized .001" to .002" larger then throat diameter, not barrel groove diameter. Most shooters and commercial casters size bullets too small! Address the bullet issues first before making irreversible changes to the gun. An 11degree forcing cone is not magic either. The factory angle is perfectly adequate most of the time, as long as it is large enough. I have tried most of the commercial bullet lubes and the best of them all is Saeco Green. None of the rest do what they claim!!!

I have been casting and shooting lead bullets since 1959. I have shot several hundred thousand cast bullets. I know what I am talking about.

Thank you warmly. I have a box of .457" round balls for my cap and ball revolvers. I wonder if one can be driven through the bore and tested in the throats?
 
I have done it with round balls. Bullets are easier, you get more surface to work with. Of course depending on what size bore you are working with (as far as I can tell you never did say) you could smush them down a bit so they would be less round and more football shaped. That might help.
 
Yes, .457 balls will work. They will reduce to size and form a cylinder in everything but a way oversized 45 cylinder throat. Tap them in with an brass hammer or place a piece of aluminum between lead and hammer. If driving though the bore use a smooth rod with the leading edges rounded. Lube the bore up well before you start

In the case of something like a 357 or smaller you only need to tap it part way in, then pull it out to measure

I would first tap though the throat. Measure then tap same piece though the bore as it should be reduce to near bore size. Even if the throats are a bit small the soft lead will upset as it is forced to accept the lands and grooves.

If your barrel uses an odd number of lands and grooves you will not get a true reading as one jaw will be on land mark and the other a groove mark. Nut, like Alk8945 said a slug that has been driven though the bore shouldn't take any real pressure to pass through the throat
 
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All, I cannot thank you enough. That is why I love this forum muchly. I have ordered a Power Customs hammer and trigger kit for the ‘Hawk to bring it back to the old style “Colt” half-cock mechanism, and figured since I’m doing that I need to investigate my throats. I’ve read nearly all Blackhawks are undersized from factory but only this test will show, that you have all graciously instructed me on and for that I thank you!
 
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