Looking for a cleaner 38 special load

[Sigquick]

Been reloading for a while now and my go to for 38 Special has always been 158 SWC and Bullseye. Accurate in all my 357 revolvers but super dirty. Primarily Laser Cast lead and Missouri painted lead, both equally dirty with Bullseye. I know it will be a little more expensive reload but thinking jacketed 158s or lighter weight jacketed and a cleaner powder. Any preferred loads that are mild and clean? Does going clean push the cost into the better to shoot bulk factory loads territory? Thanks

 

[rockquarry]

We have many fastidious shooters these days that miss out on a lot by choosing the cleanest of components, even though they are all dirty to a degree. I shoot only cast these days in all handgun chamberings. I find accuracy more important than dirty and the dirty cleans off easily from guns and hands. A little dirty or very dirty requires the same effort to clean.

 

[Model19man]

A load I shoot a lot in my 38 Special revolvers is a plated Berry's 148 grain wadcutter over W231 (same as HP38). It is very clean.

 

[Alk8944]

This obsession with "clean" ammunition is just plain silly! As rockquarry pointed out all ammunition is dirty to some degree. The gun should be cleaned after shooting and as he pointed out cleaning a "dirty" gun isn't any more work than cleaning one fired with "clean" ammunition.

This is the sort of question usually only asked by an extremely in-experienced/new shooter!

For a "clean" propellant you can't do better than CFE-Pistol. Go to the Hodgdon web-site and look up loads for yourself instead of asking others to do it for you!

 

[alwslate]

I shoot nothing but cast bullets in my .38 spl handloads. Some powders do leave the empty cases cleaner than others. The powder that produces less fouling than any other that I have ever used is Hodgdon Titewad. Yes Titewad not Titegroup. Fast burning, about like Clays. For plinking loads with 158 gr cast bullets try 2.7-3.0 grs.

 

[Sigquick]

Thanks for the recommendations thus far. I realize the vast majority of 38 special reloaders are firmly in the cast lead camp with Bullseye being the go to powder, and they perform extremely well for me as well too. I also realize all ammo is dirty to some degree. I can't be the only one wondering the pros of finding a cleaner 38 special reload. Maybe the trade offs aren't worth it. Figured with all the wisedom on this forum it couldn't hurt to ask.

To ALK8944 there is absolutely no reason for you to insult me. I'm not a new or inexperienced shooter, but if I was your comments could possibly turn me off to reloading/shooting, and using this forum as a resource to learn and improve. The older more experienced shooters should be helping to promote the shooting sports for the next generation, especially in today's political climate. If you think my question is unworthy of your time simply move on to the next.

Thanks to all the great members on here and to the SW forum for providing this resource.

 

[growr]

You might give AA #2 a try.....does fabulous for me.

Randy

 

[socal s&w]

I have shot Bullseye powder for many years, switched to WW 231 late last year thinking that it might be somewhat cleaner. It is, but not to a great degree.
I recently read where the WW 244 is cleaner burning, so I picked up a couple of pounds, turns out that it's less expensive as well.
Tried it out with the minimum load data at 2.5gr, left case dirt on one side of the cases. I have bumped it to the maximum data, 2.8gr snd will test it out next Wednesday.
Those that think cleaning is equal no matter the dirt level, cannot be right, it DOES take longer to clean a very dirty revolver if you are actually cleaning correctly.

 

[mckenney99]

Thanks for the recommendations thus far. I realize the vast majority of 38 special reloaders are firmly in the cast lead camp with Bullseye being the go to powder, and they perform extremely well for me as well too. I also realize all ammo is dirty to some degree. I can't be the only one wondering the pros of finding a cleaner 38 special reload. Maybe the trade offs aren't worth it. Figured with all the wisedom on this forum it couldn't hurt to ask.

To ALK8944 there is absolutely no reason for you to insult me. I'm not a new or inexperienced shooter, but if I was your comments could possibly turn me off to reloading/shooting, and using this forum as a resource to learn and improve. The older more experienced shooters should be helping to promote the shooting sports for the next generation, especially in today's political climate. If you think my question is unworthy of your time simply move on to the next.

Thanks to all the great members on here and to the SW forum for providing this resource.

Please don't take this person's condescending & rude response as indicative of the majority of the folks here.
Not long ago I asked a similar question. For some reason, this particular question seems to really upset some members who take this question as a sign of laziness. I have over 2 dozen manuals from the last 40+ years and they all differ in the load data and testing methods which really just muddies the issue. I have over 40 years of reloading and shooting experience but haven't reloaded 38 special in many years. Thus I came here for similar guidance. With the cost and lack of availability of powder, primers & projectiles these days, I was hoping that more knowledgeable folks could narrow down my choices and point me in the right direction.
Also, some of us take classes where several hundreds of rounds may be fired in a day and an ammunition that fouls the weapon badly leads to issues while on the firing line. For my last class I wound up using Magtech 158gr FMJ-FP factory loads (AIM Surplus) and they shot very well and were extremely clean. I fired over 300rds in a 7 hour class with no issues.
By the way, I'm still trying to find a powder, projectile combo that will give me a factory equivalent load that is acceptable to me.

 

[Krogen]

You might consider Vihtavouri N310. Although I haven't shot it in .38 Special, I have used a lot of it in .45 ACP. I would think it's a good candidate in .38 Special. It's astoundingly clean in my experience. With any powder, I've found that lighter loads produce a lot more soot than higher pressure loads. 231 in the .38 Special is a good example. I shoot 4.0 gr of 231 under a 158 gr LSWC. It's relatively clean at that charge. reduced charges are not. That load is a peppy .38 Special and nicely accurate. You might like it.

 

[BC38]

You might give AA #2 a try.....does fabulous for me.

Randy

I'll second that recommendation.
W231 and HP38 are also great alternatives.

Don't concern yourself with the grumpy old men and their acerbic replies.
They are in the minority around here and you'll pretty quickly figure out who they are. There is also a "block" function where you don't have to read/see/endure the "stuff" that they post.

Welcome to the forum. Some of the best and most knowledgeable people you'll ever meet hang out here.

 

[BrBa]

4.0 gr W231 with a 158 gr lead bullet is tough to beat for a good all around plinking load, and it won't leave your revolver too dirty. I haven't tried AA#2 but have heard it's a good choice as well.

Keep in mind that a lot of powders will be dirty at lower pressures. W231 has been quite filthy for me in .32 ACP, but I'll still use it.

 

[.38SuperMan]

You might give AA #2 a try.....does fabulous for me.

Randy

I completely agree. I shoot polymer coated lead or Berrys plated using either Accurate #2 or Nitro100NF, another accurate product. Both are very clean even with the light loads I shoot. They're much cleaner than 231/HP38 and neither are position sensitive in the light loads I shoot. In addition #2 is a spherical powder and works in my powder measure much better resulting in more consistent loads.

I was a dedicated 231 user for many years and can't even guess how many cans I've gone through but when I tried AA2 and N100NF I no longer use 231. I have about 8 pounds on the shelf I've not touched in several years.

If vs I could only use one powder I'd use AA2.

 

[rockquarry]

I have shot Bullseye powder for many years, switched to WW 231 late last year thinking that it might be somewhat cleaner. It is, but not to a great degree.
I recently read where the WW 244 is cleaner burning, so I picked up a couple of pounds, turns out that it's less expensive as well.
Tried it out with the minimum load data at 2.5gr, left case dirt on one side of the cases. I have bumped it to the maximum data, 2.8gr snd will test it out next Wednesday.
Those that think cleaning is equal no matter the dirt level, cannot be right, it DOES take longer to clean a very dirty revolver if you are actually cleaning correctly.

Your experience level may be much greater than mine, but I've never noticed a difference in time or effort required in cleaning a gun that's a little dirty vs. one that's very dirty. Once you get out the cleaning equipment and go to work, the matter of degree of filth becomes one of negligible importance, or maybe I'm just not very observant.

 

[Jeff423]

Try WST it's easily the cleanest I've used. Just loaded 200 last night.

 

[gwpercle]

The new "Powder Coated" cast bullets can give you relief from the burning / smokey wax based bullet lubricants .
As to "Clean " burning powders ... I'm not sure ...
I always thought Bullseye was a clean burner !
You might want to try Winchester WST or W244 ... those are supposed to be clean burning ... but I haven't tried them yet ...
but I want too !
Good Luck and Load Safe ,
Gary

 

[venomballistics]

You have ample options.
CFE pistol, AA#5, Titegroup, 231, Zip ....
Most will be cleaner .... for the powders part.
coated or plated should solve the rest.
With traditionally lubed, like laser cast, I've always been of a mind to embrace the dirt. It forms a slurry of sludge that seems to keep lead fowling from getting a foothold.
In revolvers and most manually operated arms, I'm not overly concerned with any level of fouling, leading aside.
In autos, it can become a liability with high volumes of fire where it interferes with proper function.
all that matters to me is performance and function. I don't care if I have to drop it in a bucket of diesel to soak the crud fossilized gun overnight before pressure washing it the following day.
As long as it'll deliver the desired energy to point of aim with absolute reliability, it can be an absolute environmental disaster

 

[venomballistics]

The new "Powder Coated" cast bullets can give you relief from the burning / smokey wax based bullet lubricants .
As to "Clean " burning powders ... I'm not sure ...
I always thought Bullseye was a clean burner !
You might want to try Winchester WST or W244 ... those are supposed to be clean burning ... but I haven't tried them yet ...
but I want too !
Good Luck and Load Safe ,
Gary

remember, pressure plays a part.
light loads tend to be a bit sootier than full loads of the same powder. In the search for cheap plinking loads, this is a fairly common vexation to those taking the miserly route, and reducing charges

 

[LostintheOzone]

This obsession with "clean" ammunition is just plain silly! As rockquarry pointed out all ammunition is dirty to some degree. The gun should be cleaned after shooting and as he pointed out cleaning a "dirty" gun isn't any more work than cleaning one fired with "clean" ammunition.

This is the sort of question usually only asked by an extremely in-experienced/new shooter!

For a "clean" propellant you can't do better than CFE-Pistol. Go to the Hodgdon web-site and look up loads for yourself instead of asking others to do it for you!

I only clean my firearms when they need it. I check the bores and cylinders for residue after I shoot. If they need cleaning I clean them. I think people are just obsessed with cleaning their firearms. I remove the cylinders when I do it also.

I don't wash my car every time I drive it.

Of course dirty powder and lead bullets means cleaning more often. Lots of commercial ammo manufacturers use very dirty powder.

 

[alwslate]

OP, be wary of 158 gr Jacketed bullets in the .38 spl. A light load runs the real risk of sticking a bullet in the bore. You don't want that.