Truck Battery $$$$$$$$

... buy a cheap battery and you'll be replacing them sooner than you would like or expect.

Is anybody here versed on battery manufacture? A long time ago you could nurse a dying battery along for a while until you could get it replaced. After some point in time it seems they die FAST and won't take a charge at all. It's either jump the car and take a chance on getting to the store or remove it, take it to the store and bring the new one back to install yourself.

There are only a few manufacturers of batteries in this country. Exide, Interstate, and East Penn in Reading , PA. I had a long talk with a battery rep from East Penn once. They make all the Walmart auto and Marine batteries as well as countless other private label brands.

I usually buy OEM spec batteries, and never upsize a battery. Buying the super deluxe, barely fit in the pan, extra heavy duty battery is a waste of money. If you can't exercise it properly it will be the quickest to go
 
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... buy a cheap battery and you'll be replacing them sooner than you would like or expect.

Is anybody here versed on battery manufacture? A long time ago you could nurse a dying battery along for a while until you could get it replaced. After some point in time it seems they die FAST and won't take a charge at all. It's either jump the car and take a chance on getting to the store or remove it, take it to the store and bring the new one back to install yourself.

I remember when auto batteries gave you a little warning, the vehicle would be a little slower to start but the last time I had the batteries go bad on a truck I had NO warning. One day the truck ('12 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4) start3d up fine and it was completely dead the next day. That's why I've decided to replace them near the end of their service lives instead of waiting for them to go bad. I'm hoping the AGM's last longer (but being maintenance-free was the real draw for me).
 
Most 12V car/truck batteries last about 7-9 years as long as they are NEVER fully discharged. Every time that happens, about 20% of your battery life is killed.
The longest Ive personally seen a battery last was on a customers 2001 Tacoma. He bought the truck new and I serviced it its entire life. In 2018 his original battery died.It was a Panasonic built unit.
I'm installing two new batteries today,by coincidence.10 times more batteries die in the summer than the winter.
Battery warehouses store batteries in "chiller" rooms for the pricey ones. It's 38-40 degrees in there.
Common batteries are up about 20% last 3 years. None have come down in price.Many have doubled.
 
There are only a few manufacturers of batteries in this country. Exide, Interstate, and East Penn in Reading , PA. I had a long talk with a battery rep from East Penn once. They make all the Walmart auto and Marine batteries as well as countless other private label brands.

I usually buy OEM spec batteries, and never upsize a battery. Buying the super deluxe, barely fit in the pan, extra heavy duty battery is a waste of money. If you can't exercise it properly it will be the quickest to go

In my career I've sold many different brands of batteries.
Now that I am at NAPA we (naturally) sell NAPA brand batteries. They are mfd. by East Penn. I have had less come backs with East Penn batteries, by far.
I toured the factory years ago. Very impressive!
As Pete stated above, they make batteries for many other brands, as well as many OEM auto manufacturers.
When my previous employer dropped East Penn (Deka) I was not enthusiastic.
I will say that many new "defective" batteries are often mis-diagnosed. Corroded terminals on either end, including the end you can't see, bad alternators, electrical issues, bum starters.
My 79 Ford pickup was getting sluggish starting. The battery was getting up in age so I replaced it. Still sluggish. Checked the connection at the starter it was good, clean and tight.
I took a close look at the cable and found a small nick in the insulation, up at the terminal.
I skinned the insulation back a found about 12" of corroded copper under the insulation. Externally the cable looked fine.
The older Ford used about 1/3 of the current just to engage the starter drive or Bendix.
But the car won't start, the default diagnosis is replace the battery.
Most places can and will test the charging system and battery for free.
I don't remember the exact figure but years ago our AC Delco rep told us GM pulled a random sample of alleged defective batteries, charged and tested them. The actual number of bad batteries was less than 10%.
Just my experience of 50+ years.
 
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Any time I buy a vehicle and the battery goes out I put in an Auto zone Duralast Gold battery. It has a 3 year battery free replacement warranty and I enter two years and eleven months in my phone to remind me to have it checked. When I take it to any Auto zone they check it and it typically fails the test and they put in a new battery, and I don't have to take in any paperwork or receipt, the information is on the battery. I had a Nissan Titan for 10 years and 260K miles and I only bought one Duracell Gold that whole time because it would always fail the test and I would get a new one for free.
 
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Most 12V car/truck batteries last about 7-9 years as long as they are NEVER fully discharged. Every time that happens, about 20% of your battery life is killed.
The longest Ive personally seen a battery last was on a customers 2001 Tacoma. He bought the truck new and I serviced it its entire life. In 2018 his original battery died.It was a Panasonic built unit.
I'm installing two new batteries today,by coincidence.10 times more batteries die in the summer than the winter.
Battery warehouses store batteries in "chiller" rooms for the pricey ones. It's 38-40 degrees in there.
Common batteries are up about 20% last 3 years. None have come down in price.Many have doubled.

Yeah, around here (Texas Gulf Coast) it's the heat that kills them. They always die in parking lots on 100°+ afternoons with a car full of groceries.
 
Hint: Buy the battery with the most generous replacement policy -- because the most expensive one sold won't last 5 years today. As the price has gone up, the quality has plummeted...
 
My C6 battery lasted 7 years until it gave up the ghost in my garage. I could not jump start it, but the AAA guy could. I drove straight to my mechanic and he installed an higher capacity Interstate battery.
He advised me a cell went bad.
That was at the start of Covid so the battery wasn't a fortune.
 
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Any time I buy a vehicle and the battery goes out I put in an Auto zone Duralast Gold battery. It has a 3 year battery free replacement warranty and I enter two years and eleven months in my phone to remind me to have it checked. When I take it to any Auto zone they check it and it typically fails the test and they put in a new battery, and I don't have to take in any paperwork or receipt, the information is on the battery. I had a Nissan Titan for 10 years and 260K miles and I only bought one Duracell Gold that whole time because it would always fail the test and I would get a new one for free.

Sorry to say you're gaming the system.
Returning good parts claiming they are defective to get a freebee is dishonest.
 
Lead acid batteries are damaged by low voltage. If they get down to 12.3 volts get a charger on them now! Any lower is bad.
I've had all my Battery Tenders eventually overcharge batteries. Yes, it took me three times to learn...
Now I have a modern digital charger I put on my RV and tractor at least once a month.
 
My Harley (custom build) can't fit a standard size battery. I got tired of going thru small batteries, so I purchased a Lithium battery. I was told that if it ever dropped to eleven volts it would be junk. I installed this battery almost eleven years ago. Since then, it has been run dead about three times (kids playing with it etc). But, after all that abuse it still charges back up and holds a charge well enough that after a few weeks it will still show over 13v and easily starts my 120ci (2000cc) motor. Guess I'm lucky because from everything I've read it should have been DOA years ago. Those batteries are so light that at first I thought it was just an empty battery case.
 
I bought my 2019 in 2020. I just replaced the battery even though I was having no issues. I got an Interstate AGM from Costco. I also bought a CTEK 40-206 MXS 5.0. I wanted to make sure that I can keep all of my batteries in good condition. I replaced the battery in my wife's Subaru as well. The CTEK will not only charge your battery, it will maintain and recondition your battery. I got cords for both vehicles and my motorcycle to be able to just plug the charger into the cord. The CTEK was about $100 but if it gives my batteries a couple more years then it will be worth it.

What I didn't realize that that there was such a thing as a battery management system with my F150. Gotta luv Youtube. After about 5 minutes of searching and watching a video I was able to figure out what to do to reset the BMS.
 
I remember when auto batteries gave you a little warning, the vehicle would be a little slower to start but the last time I had the batteries go bad on a truck I had NO warning. One day the truck ('12 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4) start3d up fine and it was completely dead the next day. That's why I've decided to replace them near the end of their service lives instead of waiting for them to go bad. I'm hoping the AGM's last longer (but being maintenance-free was the real draw for me).

Back in the day you had a reliable amp meter that gave you a good indication of what was going on and if you paid attention to it could nip a problem in the bud. Then they went to idiot lights in replacement to gauges and if you didn't heed the faint glowing you could find yourself in trouble. It used to be you could limp along on a poor charging battery but the first sub freezing temps of fall and winter would spell sudden death to a weak battery. Gauges might still be available in some vehicles, my previous Highlander had them but it was a 2008 or so, the new Highlander is a 2019 and just has a light with a battery symbol. Gauges have gone the way of the clutch pedal and quarter window as well as window cranks, a by gone era few would appreciate today. I plan on selling my last "toy" vehicle next year, its nice old '29 Model A tudor...I'm just not feeling safe in it anymore after a few close calls and the understanding that I am surrounded by a wooden body frame covered with sheet metal as well as a ten gallon gas tank literally in my lap. I will miss it and all the fun I have had working on it, the last thing I am working on is the complete rebuild of the rear axle before selling this coming spring. I have been running an Optima 6 volt battery since I bought it, if I am not driving the car it is on a Battery Tender, no battery problems. I do run a 6 volt alternator which makes a huge difference.
 
I bought my 2019 in 2020. I just replaced the battery even though I was having no issues. I got an Interstate AGM from Costco. I also bought a CTEK 40-206 MXS 5.0. I wanted to make sure that I can keep all of my batteries in good condition. I replaced the battery in my wife's Subaru as well. The CTEK will not only charge your battery, it will maintain and recondition your battery. I got cords for both vehicles and my motorcycle to be able to just plug the charger into the cord. The CTEK was about $100 but if it gives my batteries a couple more years then it will be worth it.

What I didn't realize that that there was such a thing as a battery management system with my F150. Gotta luv Youtube. After about 5 minutes of searching and watching a video I was able to figure out what to do to reset the BMS.

Yes, originally when Ford had the BMS we were told that only the dealer's computer could reset it.

Now we learn that there is a walk around. I'm also told it will reset itself after sitting for eight hours.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjyhAqsD9F4&t=258s[/ame]
 
The battery in my wife's 2020 Nissan Rogue died to day. $235 for a new battery. This country needs to reopen lead smelters.
 
... I plan on selling my last "toy" vehicle next year, its nice old '29 Model A tudor...I'm just not feeling safe in it anymore after a few close calls and the understanding that I am surrounded by a wooden body frame covered with sheet metal as well as a ten gallon gas tank literally in my lap. I will miss it and all the fun....

Not to hijack this thread but the way people drive these days I'd be afraid to drive anything that didn't have front & side airbags, ABS, etc. I investigated enough crashes over the years to know bigger & (usually) newer is safer so I usually drive my 1 ton truck (and I obey traffic laws).
 
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