ACORN
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I recently bought another 1911 .45 and want to become more proficient with the platform/caliber.
Should I use shock buffers or not to reduce wear and tear?
Should I use shock buffers or not to reduce wear and tear?
1911 shock buffs. Yay or nay
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I have tried them, just out of curiosity. I don't find them to be worth the bother, but that is only my opinion.
If you do try them, I would recommend that when you disassemble the gun for cleaning after shooting, examine the buffer. They do wear out, so don't try to get the last little bit of service from them. If it shows much wear, replace. When they let go, small pieces of plastic, delrin, or whatever your choice is made of can go places you don't want.
If you do try them, I would recommend that when you disassemble the gun for cleaning after shooting, examine the buffer. They do wear out, so don't try to get the last little bit of service from them. If it shows much wear, replace. When they let go, small pieces of plastic, delrin, or whatever your choice is made of can go places you don't want.
I have used them and it was a waste of time and money.
I never exceed factory duplication loads so wear is not a concern for me.
I never exceed factory duplication loads so wear is not a concern for me.
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100% true, IMO. If you do decide to use them, either change them regularly or don't put them in any gun your life might depend upon.
The best advice is what Jimmy gave in part two. Don't try to make a hot rod out of your .45. A 205 LSWC at 850 is a pleasant target load, but not whimpy, and will be easy on your gun with typical 16-17# recoil springs. Likewise for a 230 at 850, if you want to shoot that particular weight.
My opinion, FWIW.
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Lots of theories, but it seems no one knows for sure if they serve a useful purpose. I've tried them and found they can hamper reliability (in one gun only).
My late father was a shooting buddy with Bill at Cylinder and Slide, back in the day. I asked him once, when getting a new barrel fitted in dad's old 1911, what he thought... "Not for carry, and be careful, they will disintegrate at the worst moment" basically adjust the spring rate if necessary.
If you're concerned about wear and tear, you're better off getting a recoil spring calibration kit from Wolff gun springs.
They make 1911 recoil springs from 5 to 24 lbs.
They have a variety of calibration kits to suit any need from reduced power, to standard service, to extra power, etc.
https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911+GOV'T+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#799
Once you have figured out the maximum recoil weight that still gives you reliable function for your gun and load, just be sure to change out the spring after the recommended number of rounds fired.
You can even carry more than one type, so you can have one for, say, light wadcutters, and another for hardball, etc.
They make 1911 recoil springs from 5 to 24 lbs.
They have a variety of calibration kits to suit any need from reduced power, to standard service, to extra power, etc.
https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/1911+GOV'T+PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#799
Once you have figured out the maximum recoil weight that still gives you reliable function for your gun and load, just be sure to change out the spring after the recommended number of rounds fired.
You can even carry more than one type, so you can have one for, say, light wadcutters, and another for hardball, etc.
I never heard of them until this thread, so I looked them up. I suppose in theory the idea is kind of nifty, but in reality it is just something to separate you from your money.
I see Wilson Combat sells them. Give them a call and get their take on them. I mean they sell them, but do they recommend them?
I see Wilson Combat sells them. Give them a call and get their take on them. I mean they sell them, but do they recommend them?
Yendor357
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If for a range toy, and you swap them out every couple of months, I think they'd be ok.
I don't shoot my 1911 all that much anymore. I left one in the gun for a while, and when I shot it, the shock buff did disintegrate. Maybe the shock buff simply got old? The gun still worked tho.
I don't use them anymore.
I don't shoot my 1911 all that much anymore. I left one in the gun for a while, and when I shot it, the shock buff did disintegrate. Maybe the shock buff simply got old? The gun still worked tho.
I don't use them anymore.
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Back in the hay day of shok buffs, a common thing to see would be cracks at/near the junction of the dust cover and the frame itself. [where the thin part of the frame that covers the recoil spring meets the actual frame] One suspects that the cause was the buffer being squished out against the dust cover, stressing it in a manner the design didn't expect. Don't know if frequent change of the buffer might mitigate it.
After seeing those cracks, I quit using the things.
Also, about recoil springs. I've noted before that the slide impacts the frame at 800 Gs with a standard 16 lb spring, and goes into battery at 850 Gs-after stripping and chambering a round.
The idea that you could reduce "recoil" by increasing the recoil spring strength took fire and you got, as noted above, springs up to 24 lb rating. So, whiile you might reduce the jolt of the slide hitting the frame you INCREASED the jolt of the slide returning to battery. While this might push the muzzle down from recoil more, it also stressed the slide stop, barrel underlugs and frame beyond design. Result: frame cracks at the slide stop pin hole, broken slide stops, sheared barrel underlugs.
The standard spring is 16 lbs, I wouldn't go heavier than 18.5 lbs. Do keep a few unused spares, when the spring gets really obviously shorter than a new one change it out. Or, figure 3-5000 rounds in a full size gun. Back in the day the new competition season meant new recoil springs.
ETA: about wear: the really serious competitors back then had a stable of 3 guns. One in use, one spare and one being rebuilt. One of the reasons for the falling power factor levels.
After seeing those cracks, I quit using the things.
Also, about recoil springs. I've noted before that the slide impacts the frame at 800 Gs with a standard 16 lb spring, and goes into battery at 850 Gs-after stripping and chambering a round.
The idea that you could reduce "recoil" by increasing the recoil spring strength took fire and you got, as noted above, springs up to 24 lb rating. So, whiile you might reduce the jolt of the slide hitting the frame you INCREASED the jolt of the slide returning to battery. While this might push the muzzle down from recoil more, it also stressed the slide stop, barrel underlugs and frame beyond design. Result: frame cracks at the slide stop pin hole, broken slide stops, sheared barrel underlugs.
The standard spring is 16 lbs, I wouldn't go heavier than 18.5 lbs. Do keep a few unused spares, when the spring gets really obviously shorter than a new one change it out. Or, figure 3-5000 rounds in a full size gun. Back in the day the new competition season meant new recoil springs.
ETA: about wear: the really serious competitors back then had a stable of 3 guns. One in use, one spare and one being rebuilt. One of the reasons for the falling power factor levels.
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Oldsalt66
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Certain sorts of guns such as ARs became known as "platforms" due to their inherent modularity and their ability to be mission modified with the addition of tactical accessories suitable for specific missions in the field.
Lasers, night vision, thermal, grenade launcher, various types of optics, bipod, vertical forend grip, tactical rails, etc.
I always refer to my guns as "platforms" when I "operate" "operationally" or when I'm "driving the gun" and whenever I'm " rocking" one of them in a holster.
However the term "platform" is so tactically cool that these days, it's been extended to encompass every firearm currently in existance.
That being said, in my own experience as a high volume shooter, shock buffers are unnecessary in 1911s.
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I'm not sure who started applying "platform" to firearms. I think it wandered in from aerospace/military jargon where you have a basic foundation item (aircraft, artillery design etc.) and then emerging variations from the original/base item. The C130J is visually almost identical to the original, but very different. The Cobra was based on the UH-1 Huey.
I wonder what JMB would think of what's happened to his creation-which went through various versions before becoming the 1911.
Over on the long gun side, Gene Stoner's AR10 was the original "platform" that a couple of other engineers made into the AR15.
I wonder what JMB would think of what's happened to his creation-which went through various versions before becoming the 1911.
Over on the long gun side, Gene Stoner's AR10 was the original "platform" that a couple of other engineers made into the AR15.
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Having shot 1911s for almost 60 years, member of US Army pistol team , managing an indoor range and owning around 20 1911s, don't waste your $$$ or time. Back in 80's tried them in a LW Commander and a full size Series 70. After few 100 rounds they started disintegrating so quit them. IMHO just another " gimmick". As posted check and Adjust recoil spring.
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If you make it (especially if you're a NAME) someone will buy it.
Hey, it's cheaper than practice ammo.
Waste of $$$.......Case in point.......CMP is selling WWII 1911's that STILL WORK that went to war w/o SB's.......Lots of stuff is a waste of your $$.
SnidelyWhiplash
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I think the term "platform" is appropriate...as much as I hate political correctness...it applies to the pistol. To be accurate...a 1911 or 1911A1 is a pistol made for the US military by several contractors. No 1911A1 has been built since WWII. Commercial pistols were Government Models or similar as they've been made and continue to be made by numerous companies but they are not US military issue.
Maybe a distinction without a difference...but my two cents.
Back in the early days of IPSC USPSA, when needing to make a power factor, (my poor memory tells me 165?) the loading's were pushed pretty far. That's when the buffers were were most commonly used. Eventually the power factors were reduced a fair amount and there was no longer a need for them. Some early 1911's did get frame battered before using them.
I used them when I was competing in USPSA, but that was with the old major power factor of 175 and I was experimenting with bullets weighing 200 to 255 grains. I would use them in old 1911's, as in those that were made before slide hardening techniques were perfected. I absolutely would not put them in a 1911 that was to be used for defense, they do shorten slide travel and they can come apart and tie up the slide.
.38SuperMan
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I used them for years in my 2 IPSC 1911's. One was a custom 45 5" on a Springfield frame, still have it after 35 years, and the other a custom 38 super race gun on a high capacity Caspian frame. After tens of thousands of rounds in both, never a problem with function in either but then I used optimum spring weights too.
No issues with my 45 and no function issues with my 38 super. I did however crack the frame along the rail in the super. I ran major loads and eventually the stress of high pressures took its toll but the damage wasn't done by pounding of the slide on the frame. There could have been a flaw in the frame or it just might have occurred due to pressure stresses inducing fractures. I ram a buffer in both and none ever disintegrated but would eventually flatten to some degree and then I'd replace them. Ever time I shot them I'd do a thorough cleaning and inspection. I was particular about spring weights no only from a punishment standpoint of the gun but they run more reliably if properly sprung.
I still have my 45 and only shoot mild loads due to arthritis and have removed the buffer and don't see a need for it. As to most people using a buffer, if you're shooting factory ammo and have correct weight springs then I'd say you don't need one. If you're putting a hundred thousand hot loads through it and you're running light springs then yes you need one.
Put the correct springs in your gun for your loads, keep it clean and we'll lubed and it'll function properly for a lifetime.
No issues with my 45 and no function issues with my 38 super. I did however crack the frame along the rail in the super. I ran major loads and eventually the stress of high pressures took its toll but the damage wasn't done by pounding of the slide on the frame. There could have been a flaw in the frame or it just might have occurred due to pressure stresses inducing fractures. I ram a buffer in both and none ever disintegrated but would eventually flatten to some degree and then I'd replace them. Ever time I shot them I'd do a thorough cleaning and inspection. I was particular about spring weights no only from a punishment standpoint of the gun but they run more reliably if properly sprung.
I still have my 45 and only shoot mild loads due to arthritis and have removed the buffer and don't see a need for it. As to most people using a buffer, if you're shooting factory ammo and have correct weight springs then I'd say you don't need one. If you're putting a hundred thousand hot loads through it and you're running light springs then yes you need one.
Put the correct springs in your gun for your loads, keep it clean and we'll lubed and it'll function properly for a lifetime.
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