Bodyguard 2.0 Back Plate Removal

[scruffy]

I have read that the bodyguard 2.0 back plate can not be removed to clean out the striker channel without having to remove the rear sight. I verified this with a call to S&W CS. I typically like to clean the striker channel out and inspect the striker assembly every 500 rounds on a carry pistol. Has anyone tried to remove the rear sight yet? I'm curious if this is difficult to do without having to forcefully drift it out with a punch and or if there is a set screw helping to keep it in position making and making it easier to remove once loosened. This design of making the plate not removable without taking the rear sigh off the slide could be a deal breaker for me. Shame as I was thinking of getting one to fit into my J-frame carry rotation.

 

[WR Moore]

That seems very odd, and all CS folks aren't all that conversant with the product. Especially very grimy details. What you might try is to get the LGS people to show you how to do it

If you haven't done the full size ones, at least the 1.0s go like this: with the slide off and sitting upside down on a flat surface, you'll need a small screwdriver or two. You need to pry the plastic tube of the striker assembly forward to take pressure off the end cap to be able to remove it. It's been awhile, you may need to depress the striker block plunger and move the striker forward, then release the SB plunger to lock it in place to lower the pressure in the striker assembly first.

2nd paragraph is a bad information, see post # 5.

 

[scruffy]

Look at the plate on the pistol from the rear. It appears you can only get it out by pushing it upwards, but the rear sight blocks that. The C/S rep had me on hold while he talked to a tech who confirmed the rear sight needed to be removed before you could get the plate off.

That seems very odd, and all CS folks aren't all that conversant with the product. Especially very grimy details. What you might try is to get the LGS people to show you how to do it

If you haven't done the full size ones, at least the 1.0s go like this: with the slide off and sitting upside down on a flat surface, you'll need a small screwdriver or two. You need to pry the plastic tube of the striker assembly forward to take pressure off the end cap to be able to remove it. It's been awhile, you may need to depress the striker block plunger and move the striker forward, then release the SB plunger to lock it in place to lower the pressure in the striker assembly first.

 

[Kallo00]

I also read that somewhere, i really need instructions on removing back plate and striker.

 

[WR Moore]

Don't have one and after cleaning my 1.0 I have to admit what I posted in #2 is way off base. Memory isn't what it used to be.

If you look at the removed 1.0 slide, look very carefully at the striker, just ahead of the "foot" that rests on the sear you'll see the edge of the nylon striker sleeve. If you move that slightly toward the muzzle, you'll unload the end cap/back plate and be able to remove it.

 

[scruffy]

Don't have one and after cleaning my 1.0 I have to admit what I posted in #2 is way off base. Memory isn't what it used to be.

If you look at the removed 1.0 slide, look very carefully at the striker, just ahead of the "foot" that rests on the sear you'll see the edge of the nylon striker sleeve. If you move that slightly toward the muzzle, you'll unload the end cap/back plate and be able to remove it.

Right, except on the Bodyguard 2.0. the plate goes up in the direction of the rear sight (which blocks it) not down. Look at pics of the the back of the slide and you'll understand.

 

[WR Moore]

OK, looked at the pics on the factory website. The rear sight dovetail may be generous enough that you don't need to drive the rear sight (left to right viewed from the rear) to remove once the set screw is loosened/removed. If that's the case, just be careful not to lose the parts for the striker safety plunger while removing. Also, mark the sight's original position so you get it back where it belongs.

If that's not the case, my personal opinion is that it's a serious design flaw and you need to find another personal defense tool. The micro handguns are generally considered "carry often/shot seldom" so they may consider cleaning the striker channel not/rarely needed.

Also, IMHO (which you didn't ask for-sorry), the .380 is a marginal defensive caliber out of a 4 in barrel. The Bodyguard doesn't have that. There's a thread in the Concealed Carry area on .380 v .38 Spl. You might want to read through it. While shot placement is the most important factor, the bullet does have to reach vital areas to be effective.

 

[scruffy]

"The micro handguns are generally considered "carry often/shot seldom" so they may consider cleaning the striker channel not/rarely needed."

Those were the exact words of my LGS who was holding one when he spoke to me on the phone. Sorry, but I practice with what I carry a minimum of once a month. The BG 2.0 would be in addition to, but definitely not replace my 642 PC and 637 PC .38 snubbies which I shoot well enough for their intended purpose. .38 Special, especially +P defensive rounds are superior ti .380 ACP no question.

 

[LVSteve]

Took a look at the rear of the BG 2.0, and it appears that S&W might have run out of room to engineer a plate that could move downwards. Either that or they just screwed up.

 

[WR Moore]

May be a case of "we want a gun this size, make it work". Focus groups at work?

 

[SeniorShooter]

OK, looked at the pics on the factory website. The rear sight dovetail may be generous enough that you don't need to drive the rear sight (left to right viewed from the rear) to remove once the set screw is loosened/removed. If that's the case, just be careful not to lose the parts for the striker safety plunger while removing. Also, mark the sight's original position so you get it back where it belongs.

If that's not the case, my personal opinion is that it's a serious design flaw and you need to find another personal defense tool. The micro handguns are generally considered "carry often/shot seldom" so they may consider cleaning the striker channel not/rarely needed.

Also, IMHO (which you didn't ask for-sorry), the .380 is a marginal defensive caliber out of a 4 in barrel. The Bodyguard doesn't have that. There's a thread in the Concealed Carry area on .380 v .38 Spl. You might want to read through it. While shot placement is the most important factor, the bullet does have to reach vital areas to be effective.

Not sure which pistol you're looking at but the Bodyguard 2.0 doesn't have a set screw on the rear sight. The only way to get the backplate off is to completely remove the rear sight.

 

[BLLefkay]

Not sure which pistol you're looking at but the Bodyguard 2.0 doesn't have a set screw on the rear sight. The only way to get the backplate off is to completely remove the rear sight.

Yep, pulled my striker after 3K rounds, it was dirty AND had to pull rear sight, goofy design!

 

[agksimon]

Yep, pulled my striker after 3K rounds, it was dirty AND had to pull rear sight, goofy design!

I was able to shoot some plastic safe gun cleaner down the striker hole and wash it out then blow it dry with my compressor and air gun.

 

[ImDrRich]

The current rear sight does not have a set screw because I used a magnifying glass to determine what that small circle is: an S&W Logo.

 

[geeollie]

OK, just 1 more reason to get that XS sight so I can clean the striker channel and blocker assembly!!!

Sure appreciate the info that keeps coming from this forum.

 

[Jra*1951]

I have read that the bodyguard 2.0 back plate can not be removed to clean out the striker channel without having to remove the rear sight. I verified this with a call to S&W CS. I typically like to clean the striker channel out and inspect the striker assembly every 500 rounds on a carry pistol. Has anyone tried to remove the rear sight yet? I'm curious if this is difficult to do without having to forcefully drift it out with a punch and or if there is a set screw helping to keep it in position making and making it easier to remove once loosened. This design of making the plate not removable without taking the rear sigh off the slide could be a deal breaker for me. Shame as I was thinking of getting one to fit into my J-frame carry rotation.

Use BREAK CLEANER on the slide when it's off the frame. The firing pin spring is exposed on the bottom of the slide and the BREAK CLEANER will clean that area fine. Use the NON CHLORINATED TYPE OF BREAK CLEANER, It is ok to use on the whole pistol.

 

[halfmoonclip]

No need to remove the striker frequently. Move the striker by hand...does it move smoothly, without grit? Same for the firing pin block. If everything works, you're good to go.
As others have suggested, shooting solvent into the striker channel, and then blowing it out with compressed air, will do a fine job.
Removing the rear sight is not for the faint of heart. It is really tight in its dovetail, and will require force, with a drift and hammer, or a sight pusher, to remove it.
If it ain't broke, don't fu......,er, fool with it.
BTW, the crew over on the SIG board is equally determined to remove the striker, and it, too, isn't meant to be routinely removed.
Moon

 

[tarheel13]

As others have suggested, shooting solvent into the striker channel, and then blowing it out with compressed air, will do a fine job.
Moon

I have no plans to remove the rear sight to take down the pistol. Maybe later if the process has been well documented. I agree with using non-clorinated brake cleaner. It is pressurized with CO2 so you don't really have to use compressed air. The CO2 will blow any residue out along with remnants of the acetone solvent. Any remaining solvent will evaporate very quickly.

The problem with highly compressed air is that it cools as it expands. It cools so much that it will condense water out of the air and this water will end up in your pistol. I'd rather have acetone residue than water residue in the gun.

 

[GnarlsR2]

I cleaned my 2 P365's today. I was very surprised at how dirty the firing pin and striker channel was. It had gritty particles of carbon and particles of copper and brass.

For my defense carry, I will not go more than about 400 or 500 rounds before cleaning the striker and channel.

Regarding my BG2, I have been able clean the striker and channel without removing it.

I use Bore Tech +2 Copper Remover to drop a few drops at the spring, firing pin block, and at the firing pin port. I let it soak for a few minutes and then blow it out with canned air onto a Kleenex tissue to see what comes out. I do it several times. So far it has worked fine without having to remove the rear sight. I have over 250 rounds through with 9 different ammo brands with zero failures.

I'm not advocating that it's the best way to clean the striker and channel, but I'm not drifting the rear sight off.

 

[GnarlsR2]

Other than compressed CO2 or canned air, I will NOT use anything that sprays under pressure when I'm cleaning my firearms.
There is WAY too much chemical blowing around places I don't want it, or bouncing it into my face and eyes.
I do use Hoppes No. 9 Foaming Bore Cleaner.