Building a 14-5 from parts

[-BTM-]

I’ve done plenty of tuning and spring swapping but never done this! As soon as I find a 14 donor for the frame, that is. In the meantime there is enough of a frame stump to work with.

Building a wrench and frame/barrel clamps now, should be fun. The wrench is just a long piece of 1/4” angle iron, the clamps will be cast out of JB Steel Stick. I’ll see how the barrel mates up and either buy the tooling needed or have a gunsmith do it. Everything else I can handle.

 

[calmex]

I’ve done plenty of tuning and spring swapping but never done this! As soon as I find a 14 donor for the frame, that is. In the meantime there is enough of a frame stump to work with.

Building a wrench and frame/barrel clamps now, should be fun. The wrench is just a long piece of 1/4” angle iron, the clamps will be cast out of JB Steel Stick. I’ll see how the barrel mates up and either buy the tooling needed or have a gunsmith do it. Everything else I can handle.

Great idea. I screwed one of those barrels onto my Model 14-3 down in Mexico. I changed out the black patridge sight for an SDM Gold Bead .250 -- back then they were still easily available -- and bought a Model 64 parts kit off of some company or other and sent the cylinder off to TK-Custom to be moonclipped before having it returned to my P.O. Box that I had in Texas at the time.

I put that stainless cylinder into my K-38 and it timed perfectly, perhaps slightly better than the original because it carried up 100% on all cylinders rather than just 5. Liking the look, I also installed the Model 64 trigger and hammer, as well as a stainless (SDM I think) new style thumb latch and the stainless ejector rod.

I sold that k-38 when I left Mexico, and now that we're almost ready to move back I guess I'll have to build up something else once we get back down there. It was a great setup for shooting the San Miguel/Queretero PPC and NRA Action style events our club liked so much. I hope yours works out at well as mine did.

Here's mine as it was, pictured with my wife's Model 60 which we still have down there at the sister-in-law's place:

And all by her lonesome, with a TK-moonclip:

 

[JOliver]

I know a little and have "built" and fixed many a revolver over the years but a few years ago my dear friend gifted me a 14 that someone had tried to make a "competition" piece out of... it's like they had the concept but their execution was poor. They made it a DAO and did some weird stuff.
I had a bunch of new old stock internals and wanted to make this my son's gun, one he could learn to shoot and load up with wad cutters and go to the range with me. Dealing with brand new pieces I really learned a lot over the next few days, I really learned what part does what and why, take a little off of here to make this fit and go better. I ended up with a few sleepless nights and the journey was much more than I had planned. It was much more than dropping a used fitted hammer, trigger or hand in... I learned a TON about a sear those nights.
Came out excellent, best action I have ever felt and shoots like a dream.. wish you the best in your journey. That looks like a really neat "kit" you have there. I think you're about to have alot of fun.
By the way, I have never owned a "wrench" good piece of leather, a good vise and a hammer handle have changed out a many a barrel.
After you accomplish that, you'll be on your way.
Now I kind of look for a good project piece of priced right. I also enjoy rebluing an old tired one and even done a few nickel with some assistance.

After that one if you think you have them mastered, get you a colt and try! They're a whole bunch of fun! Especially an older Python! I used to cringe when taking one to my local expert gunsmith. Now if I take him something I think "heck that's cheap, he ain't charging enough for all the time involved with that thing".

 

[Muley Gil]

Regarding the use of a hammer handle instead of a frame wrench-yes, it can be done and yes, I have done it myself. Do I recommend it? NO!!!!!

A frame can be bent using the hammer handle and I personally wouldn't want to try and straighten one. If you decide to make your own wrench, make sure it fills the cylinder opening and spreads the force out.

 

[AudieMurphy]

Like the previous poster said...a frame CAN BEND....not so much a pinned barrel, BUT a stainless WILL bend. Becuse they are crushed fitted after 1981 and extremely difficult to remove

 

[Protocall_Design]

They were crush fitted long before they quit pinning them. The pin is just there for looks on millions of guns. The blue frames will bend as easily as the stainless frames.

 

[Jebus35745]

Nice project, if you can cut the barrel to 5”. Would look real cool, Larry

 

[mchom]

Cool project

If you cut it back to 4”, add a Patridge and recessed crown you’ll have a Roper

 

[Engine49guy]

My buddy built a 4" full underlug from a Model 19 frame and a Model 16 barrel and cylinder came out nice.
I have a six inch Model 14-6 but if I ever find a 4" barrel it will be swapped.

 

[AudieMurphy]

They were crush fitted long before they quit pinning them. The pin is just there for looks on millions of guns. The blue frames will bend as easily as the stainless frames.

your not doing it right if you bend a pinned barrel...remove the pin first.....then turn. its easy

 

[calmex]

I strongly recommend the MGW frame wrench and proper neoprene inserts for the frame you are working on, in this case the "K". I have one of those wrenches in Mexico and another here in Canada. It's a "can't be without" tool if you think you're going to be rebarrelling something or other. I know they're expensive. But they work.

 

[Protocall_Design]

your not doing it right if you bend a pinned barrel...remove the pin first.....then turn. its easy

I am well aware to remove the pin first. They were still crush fit before the pin was installed. There was just a clearance groove cut across the top of the barrel before it was put on, instead of drilling the pin hole after it was in place.

 

[Muley Gil]

I strongly recommend the MGW frame wrench and proper neoprene inserts for the frame you are working on, in this case the "K". I have one of those wrenches in Mexico and another here in Canada. It's a "can't be without" tool if you think you're going to be rebarrelling something or other. I know they're expensive. But they work.

The Maryland Gun Works wrench is what I own and use.

 

[-BTM-]

If you cut it back to 4”, add a Patridge and recessed crown you’ll have a Roper

That’s sweet. What’s a Roper?

 

[YeshuaIsa53]

I sense a need for one or more Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson.

 

[Jebus35745]

The top gun is a Roper, have a 3 caliber set of 4” full lug in .22, .32 & .38. Larry

 

[SmithNut]

That’s sweet. What’s a Roper?

It's a Performance Center M14-6 with a 4" full lug barrel, there were about 100 made and distributed by Roper Police Supply in Picayune, MS.
Many were given as prizes to the winners at the National Police Championships over a few years.

Here's a flyer that the PC put out for Roper:

The three bottom ones in this pic are Ropers

(Adding this pic of the Target Crown)

(Edited to add this old link where the M14-6 Roper revolvers were discussed)

MODEL 14-6 FOUR INCH ROPER GUN FOUND IT!

Enjoy.............

 

[CALREB]

Hey BTM, a good project. Hope this helps. I have 6-7 14-5/6/7s 4" and 6" revolvers also 6-7 14-2/3/4 6" and 1 14-2 4" revolver. I have done numerous barrel changes on all these models over the years. If you want a under lugged model 14, you can put that barrel on any 14 or model 15-5/6 and it will shoot great if you check gaps, alignments and such. The only way it will appear different is the frame area on a non inderlugged gun is not square to the underlugged barrel. Very minor and most would not pick it up. Here are photos of a 4" 14 barrel on a 15-2 , 2" model ( their frame is square like a model 14, just has a bit thicker topstrap due to the 2" barrel. A 6" 14 will not have as much of a step up from the barrel to the frame. Also in the last photo notice the bit of a gap from the under lugged barrel to the frame. No big deal just want to point it out to you. Depending on what you want to use the gun for you can put that barrel on a model 19 ( post pinned barrel) and it will mate up fine. the only thing is the barrel will need to be trimmed up and forcing cone recut to allow for the model 19 longer cylinder. The model 14 or model 15/5-6-7 will mate up easily and be a great gun. Plus all the other parts you have will work fine. Beware the Hammer on your model 14 parts kit is post 1985-6?" and is spring loaded/ relieved on the left side and works on a post 85/6 model gun. The model 15-5/6/7 are usually found cheaper than an older model 14 anyway.

For those of us that want to groan a bit. I went back to Iowa last summer to visit and went to a pistol match to visit with guys I shot with back in 1981-86. One young shooter had just bought the model 15 pictured in this thread. I asked Lon the guy who sold it, because he had another one just like it, if he wanted to sell it also. No!!

He told me when the 4" 14 ppc models came out he called Jim Rae at the PC and asked what it cost to have the barrels put on a 2" 15. $119 total cost , he said I will be sending 2 guns to you.....

 

[-BTM-]

If you cut it back to 4”, add a Patridge and recessed crown you’ll have a Roper

Ok, I learned what a Roper is and I need one!

 

[-BTM-]

Found the donor. $336 for what I hope is a K38 Target Masterpiece. Seller described it as a 14 or 15, he couldn’t be sure because the model#wasn’t on the frame so it should be from 1957 or prior. Comes with two barrels, 8 3/8 & 4. TTTHTS

Found a FFL that will take as a C&R. The shipping, transfer fees, DROS and CA SIN TAXES WILL ALMOST DOUBLE THAT!

I’ll check the serial number to see how it left the factory before I abuse it further.