Magazine repair ? Little help.
- Thread starter hardknocks
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Depending on the steel, a good welder should be able to TIG it back together, maybe. I've also heard of micro-welding; a search for that term should turn up leads, although it might not make financial sense.
It also looks like Triple K makes magazines for an H&R 25 ACP (
https://triplek.com/product/harrington-richardson-vest-pocket-25acp-6-rd-magazine-or-grips/ ) . Don't know if it's what you have or not. I've found that almost anything is fixable if you want to spend the money. Good luck
It also looks like Triple K makes magazines for an H&R 25 ACP (
https://triplek.com/product/harrington-richardson-vest-pocket-25acp-6-rd-magazine-or-grips/ ) . Don't know if it's what you have or not. I've found that almost anything is fixable if you want to spend the money. Good luck
OP
That's the gun, i seen triple K has mags, i have not had much luck with their mags.
Thanks
Thanks
I've silver soldered cracked mags like that back together.
That is High Temp Silver Solder (1400F and up)
Not the commonly used and called soft solder that is Tin/Silver 95/5 % and melts at around 400F.
I'd push the sides back into place so there's no stress on them trying to spring back open.
Heating the small area red hot with a very small torch flame and then pushing them together will do it.
At that heat they will be very pliable and push easily together w/no spring back.
Then soak the top portion of the mag in a weak soln of muriatic acid and water (a couple tbs to a pint of water/room temp)
Let it set untill any heat scale is loosened and falls free easily from the crack and surrounding area.
That will set you up for a clean scale free surface to silver braze.
..Don't discard the acid soln..you will use it once again after soldering the joint back up...
Use the required flux. Heat the surface warm and apply some flux. Then heat it more as the flux melts.
It will first bloom up in a puffy white mound and then melt down and will then appear clear.
It will cling and puddle all over the area to be brazed.
When the area is hot enough (red heat again) touch the tip of the silver solder/braze wire to the crack and it will flow right into the crack and onto the surrounding clean & fluxed area.
Done..
Let it cool on it's own, no rapid cooling, water dunking etc.
When cool, back into the acid soln again. This will remove the now hardened flux and any scale built up around the repair.. Don't worry, it won't hurt the steel at this % soln and at room temp.
It can sit in it for a couple hrs and more.
Pull it out and scrape what little crud remains if any. Rinse to remove any acid from the surface. and dry it.
Now with fine files and grit paper backed with a file, trim down any excess silver solder/braze around the repair.
You should end up with just the faintest of hairline crack repair showing with the silver solder in it. It will be a pale yellow color most likely and after time will oxidize back down somewhat and be hardly noticeable at all.
That is High Temp Silver Solder (1400F and up)
Not the commonly used and called soft solder that is Tin/Silver 95/5 % and melts at around 400F.
I'd push the sides back into place so there's no stress on them trying to spring back open.
Heating the small area red hot with a very small torch flame and then pushing them together will do it.
At that heat they will be very pliable and push easily together w/no spring back.
Then soak the top portion of the mag in a weak soln of muriatic acid and water (a couple tbs to a pint of water/room temp)
Let it set untill any heat scale is loosened and falls free easily from the crack and surrounding area.
That will set you up for a clean scale free surface to silver braze.
..Don't discard the acid soln..you will use it once again after soldering the joint back up...
Use the required flux. Heat the surface warm and apply some flux. Then heat it more as the flux melts.
It will first bloom up in a puffy white mound and then melt down and will then appear clear.
It will cling and puddle all over the area to be brazed.
When the area is hot enough (red heat again) touch the tip of the silver solder/braze wire to the crack and it will flow right into the crack and onto the surrounding clean & fluxed area.
Done..
Let it cool on it's own, no rapid cooling, water dunking etc.
When cool, back into the acid soln again. This will remove the now hardened flux and any scale built up around the repair.. Don't worry, it won't hurt the steel at this % soln and at room temp.
It can sit in it for a couple hrs and more.
Pull it out and scrape what little crud remains if any. Rinse to remove any acid from the surface. and dry it.
Now with fine files and grit paper backed with a file, trim down any excess silver solder/braze around the repair.
You should end up with just the faintest of hairline crack repair showing with the silver solder in it. It will be a pale yellow color most likely and after time will oxidize back down somewhat and be hardly noticeable at all.
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Remember that mag lips, on mags like yours, are springs of a degree.
Try a good jeweler, see what they think.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
I have tig weleded mags with cracks like that with stainless steel rod. Silver soldering is also a good fix.
OP
I'll probably try silver solder. The one I used to use at work (plumbing) is 15% silver, not sure if it matters
215hg gave excellent instructions.
Thanks
215hg gave excellent instructions.
Thanks
That's likely a 'Soft Solder' and melts and flows around 500F.
Soft solders no matter their alloy and % are generally not strong enough to hold a thin sheet metal crack together.
Popular term for any of the 'Green' soft solders (not containing lead) is now Silver Solder because the lead content has been removed and replaced with small amts of Silver.
They are still Soft Solders if they work in the range of 400 to 650F.
'IF' the Silver Solder (old school term for Hard Solder or Silver Braze) you have requires red heat (around 1300/1500F) to melt and flow,,then it is what I refer to Silver Solder or Hard Solder/Silver Braze.
Plumbing around refrigeration units and the like requires the use of it very often.
Many different alloys, melt & flow temp ranges, etc. But they all require the high heat range to work with.
Very strong stuff. Not quite fuse welding strength, but awfully close to it in many instances.
TIG or Laser welding would be a good way to fix the damage as well. Some fantastic work is done with Laser Weld.
The magazine is certainly worth saving.
I wouldn't try to attack it with my OA torch of course!
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As many have already stated, a TIG weld or high temp. Silver Solder would be the way to go. I can see that original mag's would be hard to come by and I also agree that Triple K mag's (even if they make them) are hit and miss as to if they actually function.
OP
Hey guys
I call it silver solder or brazing rods, we use for medical gas piping in hospitals. It melts around 1200 of 1300 degrees and i been brazing copper pipes forever, wasn't sure i would work on the magazine. I have acytelene and many different tips. Don't need oxy acytelene setup for small brazing.
May give it a go.
Thanks
I call it silver solder or brazing rods, we use for medical gas piping in hospitals. It melts around 1200 of 1300 degrees and i been brazing copper pipes forever, wasn't sure i would work on the magazine. I have acytelene and many different tips. Don't need oxy acytelene setup for small brazing.
May give it a go.
Thanks
https://www.microprecisionwelding.com/
Tony has done a lot of work for me on stuff I'm not equipped for. Highly recommended.
Cheers
Bill
Tony has done a lot of work for me on stuff I'm not equipped for. Highly recommended.
Cheers
Bill
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