I've been dealing with this issue for a couple years now. I had some work done on my model 57 a few years back. I thought maybe the issue might wear in and fix itself. After the gunsmith returned it, I noticed that there was no over travel in the trigger. When pulling the trigger, it feels like the trigger is pushing against a stop before it breaks. I would really like just the slightest amount of over travel when pulling the trigger, so it doesn't feel like it is bottomed out. I suppose I should have brought it back to the gunsmith, but it is a 45 mile drive, and as I stated, I thought maybe it would smooth out. There is no pin inside the trigger return spring, so I don't know if there was one originally, or not. Anyway, my question. What can I do to allow a tiny but of over travel in my trigger pull?
No trigger over travel on my model 57.
- Thread starter M5741
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Check to make sure that the top of the main spring is not hitting the bottom of the hammer. That sounds like a loose or shortened strain Screw and or a main spring that has lost it's curve.
-BTM-
Member
DA & SA?
OP
Single action!
There is supposed to be trigger stop rod in the M57.
Maybe the rebound trigger spring is not the correct one, i.e. too long? supposed to only have 17 coils; maybe it is solid stacking.
Maybe cut 1-1/2 coils off the existing rebound spring.
How does it feel without the cylinder installed? You’ll have to hold the thumb piece in the rear position with your other hand to cycle the action without the cylinder.
If the problem is there both with and without the cylinder, I would look at the areas mentioned above first - hammer spring hooks touching the hammer and coil bind in the rebound spring.
If it feels normal without the cylinder and the problem comes back when the cylinder is installed, that narrows it down quite a bit. Did the gunsmith install a new hand? It could be the hand binding against the frame at the end of the trigger stroke.
If the problem is there both with and without the cylinder, I would look at the areas mentioned above first - hammer spring hooks touching the hammer and coil bind in the rebound spring.
If it feels normal without the cylinder and the problem comes back when the cylinder is installed, that narrows it down quite a bit. Did the gunsmith install a new hand? It could be the hand binding against the frame at the end of the trigger stroke.
After rereading your OP, I'm not quite sure what the problem you're describing is. At first, you mention trigger over travel, which happens after the hammer is released. But you also mention that it comes up to a hard wall before it breaks. So, is the problem a solid wall before it breaks, no over travel, or both?
OP
After careful inspection, I did find that the over travel is there albeit just a few thousands. I don't have a trigger pull weight tool, so I can't say what the poundage is, but it is a little stiff to my liking. I have read where it has been recommended for self defense, that the over travel pin be removed. I sent it back to S&W probably 20 years ago to have some parts replaced. I ask to replace 4 parts, but they replaced 9. I wonder if they might have removed the pin? I bought the model 57 through a friend that was a deputy on the sheriff's department, back in 1972 for 212.50. Way back then, it was my only revolver and I shot the hell out of it for decades. I did load hot loads as the years went by, but my go to load was the Lyman 410459 bullet over 8 grains of Unique. I even took two deer with that load. So anyway, knowing that there is just a smidgin of over travel, and although the trigger pull is a little on the heavy side, I think I'll leave well enough alone.
Thank you all for your input, and expertise. It is very much appreciated.
Thank you all for your input, and expertise. It is very much appreciated.
