Moving the safe down the stairs

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rustythread

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Will be moving house in the spring;the move will include putting a lot of weighty stuff in the basement. Heaviest among them is the 800-lb. gun safe. Looking for tips to avoid crippling myself.

Access is only through an inside stairway, 1 story. NOT a walk-in basement. The stairs is at least straight, and ends at a wide-open area of concrete floor. At the top of the stair--ground level--there is a landing about 30" square, with an opposite door and a couple of steps down to the attached garage.
I am looking at various models of appliance moving hand trucks with "stair-climbing" treads, and also at both 12V DC and 120VAC portable winches, with the thought of strapping the safe to the dolly and winching it down slowly.

Any suggestions on rigging, moving, safety, or other details will be very much appreciated. I have no problem with the concept of hiring help, but there is limited space to place helpers and I'm not sure I would trust the sanity of a helper who volunteered to work under the safe pushing up to restrain it...
I myself am older than dirt and so arthritic that only my trigger finger moves freely.
What say you all? Thanks
 
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How about this. Remove the door, makes it lighter, and gives edges to grab on to. Make a pallet/dolly, with no wheels, but a 4x4 on the bottom end to hold the safe in place. Ropes and straps to secure the safe, lay it on it's back on the slider, and lower with ropes/ straps/ winch, whatever. You will need some folks on the bottom to stand the safe up on another dolly to move it where ever you want it to go.(Might not be able to get around it with it laying back on the stairs.)
 
If you rent a refrigerator cart and strap it in securely, winching it down will work fine. I tired my newest safe securely to and ordinary, but heavy duty hand cart and used a 1/2 ton chainfall to get it up the steps on the porch to bring it inside. Did it by myself. Chainfalls available at places like harbor freight. you do need a secure anchor point. I used a chain lag bolted int 2 of the ceiling trusses. I wouldn't trust just 1 2x4 or one lag bolt. Also seriously avoid shock loading. Going down the steps one guy to guide (above, NOT below) and another to control the winch or chainfall. If you are worried about the strength of the individual steps laying down 2x6 or 2x8 for each wheel on the cart will spread out the pressure of the wheels and you won't have the bump bump bump as it rolls over each step. I would recommend this on steps made from less than 1 1/2 thick boards or 1" plywood. If a wheel is only 2" wide and only 1 " of its diameter is contacting the floor. Thats only 2sq in and if 1/2 the safe weight is on one wheel thats 200 psi. Better safe than sorry. A wheel breaking through a step 1/2 way down would be a problem.

But, then I have made a living moving very very heavy things for a good part of my life. Heaviest pick I ever made was 550,000 Lbs. I am certified to rig a 2 crane pick.
 
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When I purchased my safe, I hired a safe mover to help get it into the house and basement. I also had my son-in-law there for help per the movers request. We took the door off in the garage and the three of us carefully carried it down to the basement. I was worried about the safe itself just thinking about the safe getting loose on the carpeted stairs and knocking out a wall in the basement. The mover made the comment that the door was the hard part and starting wrapping the safe body with stretch wrap. He went on to say that the stretch-wrap would allow the safe to slowly slide down the steps with very little effort on our part. Once this was done, we just had to figure out which way the safe had to be orientated so that it would slide to the landing the tilt over for the next set and end up upright. He was right about the stretch-wrap as when we started the safe down the stairs and it did almost a slow motion slide with very little help from us. Experience pays off. Now if we ever decide to move, getting it back up will be fun. Good luck, be careful and think about hiring a pro with your help. Well worth the $200.
 
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I agree with those recommending professional movers. Something you may not have thought about is the strength of the stair construction. Typical construction calls for 2x12 risers which will need to be supported to handle the weight.

That being said, 20 years ago I bought a used Mosler bank safe for my guns from Bruck Safe Co here in Ohio. Weight was approx. 450lbs and we moved it down a flight of basement stairs strapped to a dolly and connected to an inline doorway by a strap and 4x4 spanning the opening. A come-along was used too. It was a lot of work.
Dave
 
As one who has done heavy rigging at work, this looks like a project that could go bad very quickly. Unless you have something solid to tie back to, the safe can take off suddenly, and anyone below it could be crushed. Tilting it at the top of the stairs would take some rigging from the other direction to keep it from crashing to the floor.
If there's a safe dealer nearby, it might be worth getting a quote for the move. They have the tools, experience and the insurance.
Edit: Looks like a consensus recommending hiring professionals.
 
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rick1085 said:
Why take a chance on someone getting hurt?
Why not hire a professional?
A pro will easily and safety get your safe where you want it.

Did a Google search of safe movers in southern Illinois.
Found several including...
Illinois Gun Safe Movers Illinois Safe Gun Illinois Moves Gun Safe Moving
Click to expand...

I appreciate the thought, but I'm over 300 miles from Chicago. The only safe mover around here gets $50 per step for stairs, in addition to the base charge plus mileage. t0tal of 20+ steps...
 
I've been involved in five moves including one with a 1500 pound safe. I agree with those who suggest hiring it done. I did some of it 15 years ago but now I'm in my lower 70's and think it would be dumb for me to try it. If you bring in some friends and someone gets hurt, what will that cost you? Knowing what major town you are near might get you some recommendations on good companies. Southern Illinois covers a lot of territory. You sure can't use someone from Chicago.
 
rustythread said:
I appreciate the thought, but I'm over 300 miles from Chicago. The only safe mover around here gets $50 per step for stairs, in addition to the base charge plus mileage. t0tal of 20+ steps...
Click to expand...
I'd give the guys at the link a call and talk to them. They have a lot of service locations in Illinois listed on their website. They also say "if you live in Illinois or a state bordering on Illinois give us a call."

Nothing to lose with a phone call, and maybe they can help you out.
 
Another vote for a pro. I've watched a pro do it a few times. And then I got a report from a friend who did it themselves. It turns out the treads on their stairs were not particularly strong - and the weight of the safe pulled them up. They had to go into "Emergency secure mode NOW!!!" mode.

This happened a few years ago and, when we discuss it, they do not laugh even in the slightest. The only thing they can say is "We were REALLY lucky no one got hurt or killed."

I'd find a LGS that sells safes. My guess is they know of someone that has done it a million times - but yet isn't in the books officially as a safe mover. That's how I got the mover I used when I bought mine. The guy had done it a gazillion times. But I don't think I can find him anywhere official listed as a safe mover.

OR
 
Simple, hire a local safe moving company. The cost is WAY cheaper than meeting your medical deductible. That is what I did when I moved mine from the lower garage into my office. His moving dolly even had electric motors that lifted it up the steps.
 
I used to move safes. Thank God I don't any more.

I too would hire a pro. Once you lose control of 800 pounds you are not going to stop it.

Think about your health. Think about the health of some guy you hire that gets hurt on your property. Or maybe a friend that comes to help. And what would you anchor an 800 pound safe to, to anchor it?

I hurt myself twice. Ain't worth it. I understand it's expensive. And honestly I think $50 a step is a ripoff. If you must move it yourself plan accordingly and don't expect to do it quickly.
 
I know it's expensive but please consider hiring a professional safe moving company. I did when I moved my safe downstairs and it was money well spent. Any debilitating injury you or your friends get attempting to move the safe will cost you way more than the moving costs.
 
Just a thought, I bought a Cannon safe for my son in Western Oregon. Buying direct from the area distributor cut the price by several hundred dollars off the retail price. They delivered the safe and located it into his basement for a $50 charge. The pros used a stair stepping machine to get the safe down the steps without damage to themselves or the house.

I would consider selling your old safe and calling the Cannon (or whichever brand you prefer) safe folks to arrange delivery of your new safe. It is a good excuse to upgrade to a larger, stronger safe at the same time.
 
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I moved twice in a years time and hired a pro to move the safe both times. Money well spent IMO. He had the expertise, proper equipment and the temperament. I watched.
 
My last whole house move was 20 years ago. I finally got smart and hired the pros to handle it. They did in four hours what it would have taken me and friends two full days. I suggest you do the same. Your back will love you for ding so.
 
I'll throw this out there as an alternate. In my background in commercial construction, we design-in removable equipment hatches. Think a pull-down attic stair opening, in the floor.

You might find an area of the first floor that's carpeted, roll the carpet back, and cut a hole through the floor. Reinforce the hole by properly boxing the opening and sistering the joists, taking into account a permanent, reinforced removable hatch panel.

Properly reinforce the overhead structure for attaching a block and tackle. If you have an attic, you could construct a lifting frame there, centered over the basement hatch, and leave it there, with a small ceiling access panel for the chainfall.

Roll the safe onto the reinforced access door, raise it, remove the panel, lower it to the basement.

A circular saw and some 2x lumber gives you a permanent solution that you can operate yourself and it will be there for all those other "weighty" objects you mention.
 
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