taking apart the yoke/crane for cleaning?

BuddyD1885 · Jun 25, 2021

Pef said:
I can speak to only S&W revolvers.

I rarely remove the yoke, and when I do, it is only to lubricate because the cylinder is not spinning as easily as it should. I do not disassemble the cylinder.

I recently did this with my 637, which I carry frequently. After many years my 637 cylinder was not rotating as freely has my other j frames. I removed the yoke, then the cylinder so I could do a better job of cleaning an oiling, and then reassembled. Problem resolved.

I've not had to do this on my K, L or N frames, nor on my other J frames.

I cannot speak to the Korth; that particular design may be sensitive to residue, I don't know.

yes, the crane/yoke on a Korth comes off by pressing a button, on the right side, just forward of the trigger.

it's from there, i wanted to remove the wheel from the crane/yoke, for a good cleaning.

since i cannot unscrew the extractor's cap, i was at least able to douse the wheel's front bearing/bushing, and letting the Kroil, Hoppes and another cleaner, seep down to the bottom of the extractor.

then with my pancake air-compressor, i was able to force out almost all of the "gunk", that built up in there.

but yes too, the Korth is a German made revolver, and i can assure everyone, the tolerances are much tighter than any other gun in my collection.

now, couple those tight tolerances, along with reloaded ammo, and lock up of the wheel is certain, which it did.

i could not find factory new 357 mag or 38 special locally, but i can always get reloaded ammo. it's just dirtier than believe it or not, the steel cased ammo..!!!!!!

so, lesson learnt, NO reloaded ammo, factory NEW only.

i just wish i was able to fully disassemble the wheel, extractor rod, etc, and fully clean.

but the Kroil, which does also break down carbon, did a wonderful job!!!

BuddyD1885 · Jun 25, 2021

s&wchad said:
Kroil is intended for industrial uses. I’ve never seen it in a hardware store, but it’s often offered at gun shows.

They also sell direct at a substantial discount. Last time I bought it, they offered 2 extra large cans of AeroKroil for under $20 shipped. I also recommend getting an 8oz pour can with the spout.

You’ll find their direct ordering phone number here:
KanoLabs.com

no more now. i called the toll free number and the gal said they stopped offering specials and deals online, or over the phone. they made this change back in April.

so i had to check the distributors list, and found a refrigerant company about 3 miles from me, and all they had was the 10 oz spray, and i got 1 can for now.

PALADIN85020 · Jun 25, 2021

Besides convenience, there is another reason to remove the yoke and cylinder.

When you clean the cylinder while it's still on the yoke hanging out on the gun, you are putting unusual pressures on the yoke unless you are very, very careful. Bending the yoke is a classic no-no. I do not want to take that risk, so I remove the yoke and clean the cylinder separately from it so there is no risk of careless stress on the yoke.

John

Psprink · Jul 13, 2021

Just wanted to comment on the “reloaded ammo not working”. All ammo is basically loaded the same. Prime the case, charge the case with some powder, seat the projectile and crimp. Talking about pistol ammo here. The variables of powder brand, powder burn rate, primer brand, regular primers, magnum primers, charge weight, bullet type, bullet weight, are all in the equation.
For example, I have a freedom arms single action in 357 magnum that seizes up after a few rounds on an upper mid range charge of Hogdon H110, but if I use Vida N110 it runs perfect at approx the same velocity and bullet type and weight. I have an old model 19 that eats anything I put in it. So the point is, the reloaded ammo isn’t the problem, it’s the reloaded ammos variables that are the problem in a particular fire arm.
I’m probably not going to have to fight with my Freedom Arms SA and that Korth of yours will probably not be your go to fighting tool either. I am sure you can find a reload that will shoot perfectly in that pistol, you just have to experiment a little more.
Good Luck

Greyman50 · Jul 13, 2021

Been using Kroil for about as long as can remember, I’m 70. Most industrial supply businesses carry it, bought a gal. can about 10 years ago, have 2 small cans that refill, 1 for shop and 1 in house. The cans develop leaks at bottom seams so keep can in a old soap dish or similar in house.

mscampbell2734 · Jul 15, 2021

moosestang said:
A timely topic for me. I hadn't used my 642 for several months due to knee surgery. When I finally did pick it up, I found I couldn't open the cylinder. It was stuck. Took it to the shop I bought it from, since the gun is less than a year old. He removed the front side plate screw, as mentioned above, and worked the yoke free. It was all gunked up. I will be cleaning this more frequently in the future!

This is why back in the day of police service revolvers we were taught to clean a revolver DRY, no solvent and no oil. Over time solvent and oils get into little nooks and crannies and gunk up and cause problems. Our 15s may have look like hell from the outside but they ran like the day they left the factory.

moosestang · Jul 15, 2021

Sevens said:
Are you a user of Rem Oil?

No, I use Hoppes elite.

glenwolde · Jul 15, 2021

I'm thinking the Korth probably has a really tight cylinder/barrel gap. If the shop owner can't tell you what powder it is then I doubt he knows it's "clean". Combine one of the dirty powders, lead bullets, and a tight gap and it will bind.

It's not reloads per se, it's the combination. Reloads with plated, jacketed, or coated lead bullets would probably work fine.

taking apart the yoke/crane for cleaning?

BuddyD1885

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BuddyD1885

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PALADIN85020

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Psprink

Greyman50

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mscampbell2734

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moosestang

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glenwolde

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