acermanco
Member
HELP!! I have a Model 639.(Just Purchased). Every time I fire the gun the slide stop button flies out of it's hole/position in the frame.
Model 639 Problem. slide stop button comes out.
- Thread starter acermanco
- Start date
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Contacting the seller is one option.
The slide stop button is staked into the frame during assembly. If the stem on the back of the button is in-tact, you may be able to re-stake it in place. I would suggest adding some Loctite or JB Weld to the stem in addition to proper staking.
If you decide to attempt to repair it yourself, take care to properly 'back up' the button while staking it in place. This is a particularly fragile area near the frame rail and behind the cutaway, so use caution. Also, be sure that the flat on the button is set at the correct angle prior to staking/using fixative. This angle is critical to the proper function of the slide stop.
The slide stop button is staked into the frame during assembly. If the stem on the back of the button is in-tact, you may be able to re-stake it in place. I would suggest adding some Loctite or JB Weld to the stem in addition to proper staking.
If you decide to attempt to repair it yourself, take care to properly 'back up' the button while staking it in place. This is a particularly fragile area near the frame rail and behind the cutaway, so use caution. Also, be sure that the flat on the button is set at the correct angle prior to staking/using fixative. This angle is critical to the proper function of the slide stop.
OP
acermanco
Member
Option1 is not possible...Long story.
But Thank You for Option two info. I Understand what You are saying. I'm trying to decide if I want to try this staking etc. on my own. I don't know any gunsmith's in the area. I love this gun.But this imho is poor design.
Question:Am I staking the stem of the button from the inside of the frame? Or am I staking the button on the outside of frame??
But Thank You for Option two info. I Understand what You are saying. I'm trying to decide if I want to try this staking etc. on my own. I don't know any gunsmith's in the area. I love this gun.But this imho is poor design.
Question:Am I staking the stem of the button from the inside of the frame? Or am I staking the button on the outside of frame??
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You may also be able to "convert" the button configuration over to the use of a "sideplate", like the 3rd generation frames. I have never attempted this but it may be possible with little intervention. Perhaps one of the other gunsmiths or armorers will chime in with an opinion on this conversion.
Image of the sideplate in position in a 5906 frame:
Also....it may help to ask the moderators to move this thread to the "smithing" page where it will get proper attention.
Image of the sideplate in position in a 5906 frame:
Also....it may help to ask the moderators to move this thread to the "smithing" page where it will get proper attention.
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Definitely red Loc-Tite time even if you stake it. Make sure the area is chemically clean and let it sit over night. Probably longer than needed, but better than a do over. Any GOOD smith who has the staking tool for the plunger tube on a 1911 should be able to take care of this.
OP
acermanco
Member
How do I stake it?
Either a GOOD smith or buy the tool
OP; You obviously invested good money in buying the gun si it is for sure dis-heartening to have to invest more, but the only way IMHO to re-stake it is to do it right.
As posted by others, a good smith that works on 1911's would probably have the staking tool on hand but of course will charge for the service so if you are at least a little mechanically minded, probably the same money spent on buying the tool and doing it yourself would be good. Additionally, you probably can resell the tool either here or on flea-bay and recover some of your costs.
At least look at the tool so you'll see how it works, as some peoples idea of "staking" is way off base in my opinion.
I used to have a Army surplus plunger tube staking tool as shown and described in Department of the Army TM 9-1005-211-34 which is (was) the direct and general maintenance manual for the 1911A1. Mine was lost when my home flooded in 1972.
Brownells tool is the same, just go to Brownell's website and search for part number 080-001-091WB, 1911 Plunger Tube staking tool. It's currently $60.49 plus shipping and tax but again........the only SAFE way to do it right IMHO.
Best of luck and let us know how you make out.
OP; You obviously invested good money in buying the gun si it is for sure dis-heartening to have to invest more, but the only way IMHO to re-stake it is to do it right.
As posted by others, a good smith that works on 1911's would probably have the staking tool on hand but of course will charge for the service so if you are at least a little mechanically minded, probably the same money spent on buying the tool and doing it yourself would be good. Additionally, you probably can resell the tool either here or on flea-bay and recover some of your costs.
At least look at the tool so you'll see how it works, as some peoples idea of "staking" is way off base in my opinion.
I used to have a Army surplus plunger tube staking tool as shown and described in Department of the Army TM 9-1005-211-34 which is (was) the direct and general maintenance manual for the 1911A1. Mine was lost when my home flooded in 1972.
Brownells tool is the same, just go to Brownell's website and search for part number 080-001-091WB, 1911 Plunger Tube staking tool. It's currently $60.49 plus shipping and tax but again........the only SAFE way to do it right IMHO.
Best of luck and let us know how you make out.
OP
acermanco
Member
Thank You cmansguns. You have been very helpful. I will order the tool. I also picked up some locktite epoxy weld. I will use both. I'll let You know how it comes out.
Wodered if anyone could post a picture of the correct orientation of the slide release button on the frame? Thanks in advance.
Wodered if anyone could post a picture of the correct orientation of the slide release button on the frame? Thanks in advance.
paulj84003
Member
The button should pitch 1 -2 degrees forward at the top use the staking tool with care as the frame in this location is easy to break, your frame should have a square hole if memory serves me right, if so the corners of the staking tool should point at the corners of the hole. The factory used red loctite at one time equivelant to med strength. I would be careful using epoxy weld, if you need to reposition the SSB you would then need heat to break the bond. I sent several mod 59's back to the factory in the early 70's (new in the box) with the frame cracked when they fitted the SSB. They used both round and square holes for the SSB. Take care
Red Loc-Tite was specified because that's what the instructions for my 1911 front sight swaging tool specified for use (in addition to the swaging operation on the sight tenon). I had one customer who only used the Loc-Tite for an emergency front sight fix after a match (He was going to another match the next day). He never came back to have the installation done right and told me he'd get back to me if it failed. That was in the early 1980's, have never heard from him.
The red product will fill a 0.015 in gap and I'd have to go elsewhere to get the shear and tensile strength specs. The problems I've had removing the sight tenon when changing sights for people demonstrate it's THE way to go.
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OP
acermanco
Member
Thank You WR Moore and Paulj84003. Very good advice. Maybe I'll just try the red locktite? What I don't understand is the Button when installed is flush with the inside of the frame. How do you stake something that is flush with the hole?
OK, the pins on the 1911 plunger tube have little divots (shallow holes) in their ends. The staking tool flares the thinner edges of the pins against the holes in the frame. The frame holes may have (been decades) slight chamfers on the inside to accept the flare.
I've never worked on a Smith auto with the frame button, so I've no clue how the frame button was supposed to be done. The 1911 staking tool for the above job uses a pointed small pin to flare the ends of the plunger tube pins. The same system should work-with great care- on your problem by forcing the button pin metal against the frame. Post 10 suggests the hole might be square. In that case you move pin metal at the corners of the square. You might try a PM to amorer951 for more detailed advice. Since you have all the parts, you might check with S&W to see if they'd help out.
Should you decide to try changing over to the 4 digit side plate system, you'll need the side plate and the longer sear pivot pin. Possibly a little work on the hole for the slide stop.
I've never worked on a Smith auto with the frame button, so I've no clue how the frame button was supposed to be done. The 1911 staking tool for the above job uses a pointed small pin to flare the ends of the plunger tube pins. The same system should work-with great care- on your problem by forcing the button pin metal against the frame. Post 10 suggests the hole might be square. In that case you move pin metal at the corners of the square. You might try a PM to amorer951 for more detailed advice. Since you have all the parts, you might check with S&W to see if they'd help out.
Should you decide to try changing over to the 4 digit side plate system, you'll need the side plate and the longer sear pivot pin. Possibly a little work on the hole for the slide stop.
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