JBWeld Repair

I always use the strongest version of JB Weld that comes in the two tubes. One is white and black and the other is white and red. That is their highest strength product and dries to a dark gray color. Like I said above, I use JBW all the time and have never been disappointed!
 
I use JB weld for a lot of things, has always worked well for me. One instance, about 30 years ago, I had an old Case pocket knife with the yellow plastic(?) handles that had disintegrated. A piece of making tape around one side the knife sticking up about 1/8 inch. Filled the channel with JB Weld, let set, and did the other side. After both sides set, sanded them smooth. Knife still sits on my workbench and is used almost daily.

Also, FYI.....JB Weld will take an alcohol based stain. I have repaired and replaced missing chunks out of rifle and pistol stocks with JB Weld and stained the area to make it blend in.
Recently repaired and stained a set of 1950's Colt Woodsman coltwood plastic grips that had a chunk missing. Used an alcohol based stain (Fiebing's leather dye) red and brown, to get close to the original color.

Also, Fiebing's leather dye works well on wood.
 
JB Weld is good stuff, I've used it on a number of items and unless the surface is contaminated with water, oil, or corrosion, it typically bonds very well. I once used it to build up a magazine catch in an old Thompson Auto-Ordnance 1911. The hole in receiver had been incorrectly machined and created a sloppy fit with catch and that positioned the magazine just a tiny bit too low in the receiver for reliable feeding. I JB Welded the bottom surface of the catch, which eliminated the slop and slightly lifted the magazine. The JB Weld held up for about 1000 rounds of full power ammo.

I also used JB Weld to attach a piece of metal to a Mauser 98 military trigger to eliminate the first stage of the pull. Also used it to attach a piece of metal to a Ruger MK II target pistol to act as a trigger over-travel stop. Added a bead of JB Weld to the bottom of my M1 Garand stock to tighten up a previous glass bedding job.
 
That should work ok, my only suggestion would be to clamp some flat stock on to each side of the frame and apply some mold release to it and slather away and you won’t have much finish shaping to the sides..
 
Patrick L said:
I can't tell from the pictures, is the butt just rounded, or was a piece actually missing?

If you are just building out the square, I see no reason the JB wouldn't work. I might prefer Accra Glass gel with the powdered steel mixed in, but that's just me. If you are regluing a missing piece, it probably would still work, maybe need a little creative reinforcing, but as others said it's a low stress area.
Click to expand...

I should have taken a shot of the gun before I started. I thought I already had one. I imagine the completed sale in the Want Ads would show. It was ground off, and not very neatly. As stated above, it's only JB Weld on an area that handles pretty much no stress and it can be removed. One question I have about the cured JB: it still feels almost soft. Maybe the tiny bit of nail polish causes that? I'm really not THAT worried as it's only a filler. I have a picture of it set up on that vise.
 
JB Weld is plastic, and won't work on an exhaust system, especially near the engine. It has a temp limit.
I used Marine Tex, a similar product, to repair a pin hole leak in my Audi Fox gas tank. It was outside, on the bottom, and was permanent, as long as I had the car.

73,
Rick
 
I am a big fan of J-B Weld. Learned about something like it when I was in the military. The stuff we used them was called Devcon and we used it for everything. If it is good for a 50 million dollar aircraft....... So J-B Weld is my go to for most small repairs. I probably would not have bothered with a gunsmith. Most are just parts replacers. I would have taken it to a real weld shop or a machine shop for a repair like you are attempting. That said, good luck with your endeavor and keep us posted!
 
Many years back (1972 or so) we had a big problem. A pump that was needed for heat was broken with the building supposed to be taken over by the state in a few days, The flange on discharge side of the pump had a nasty cut/slash and leaked big time.

We could not et another pump so we tried that JB. Followed the directions and then gently ground it down, put the pump back together.

Well that did it. I worked in that general area for a few more years and that pump never got replaced. Made a believer out of me!-:D
 
I had forgotten that I had used J-B Weld to repair a water pump on a 1976 Jeep Wagoneer that I had. Living in Ca. on the economy as there was no base housing available at the time so money was tight. Found a water leak in my Wagoneer at the water pump. No money for a replacement. 1stSgt. suggested J-B Weld. Removed the water pump and found there was a lot of corrosion in the housing. Coated it on every surface that I could. Let it harden for 24 hours (actually about 36) and put it back on. Drove it another two years and it was still holding when I sold it.
 
This is the “forms” I made. I have a much better clamp than the vice grips! I will need to make a vertical piece to build up the heel. Drilling it and inserting something in to act as rebar w a s a good idea. I appreciate the responses, as I never really used JB Weld much. I’ll try to find a couple pics.
 

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Jeff I’ve read that Pachmayr Grippers grips will fit a low back if you knock out the locator pin. I believe they are also “closed back” so as sort of a last resort if your efforts fail to meet your satisfaction you might try them.
I might have a set. I’ll look and see.
 
In 1980 we used Devcon to glue the bases of leveling jacks for a 30’ machine bed at the International machine tool show in Chicago. After the show had to use a forklift to “ break” the bases loose. Problem was it pulled up a 15” Dia. x 8” sections of the concrete floor. Tough stuff.
 
Greyman50 said:
In 1980 we used Devcon to glue the bases of leveling jacks for a 30’ machine bed at the International machine tool show in Chicago. After the show had to use a forklift to “ break” the bases loose. Problem was it pulled up a 15” Dia. x 8” sections of the concrete floor. Tough stuff.
Click to expand...

We used Devcon on the aircraft. Usually we repaired anchor nuts and things like that, it could be drilled and tapped. Once it was on there was no taking it off.
 
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As Chief38 said, it's usually best to use the strongest version of JB Weld. It will be in two toothpaste type tubes and the strongest WILL NOT say "Quick". The slow stuff is much stronger. The strong versions really are amazingly strong.

I would think epoxy resin pigment would be much better for adding color.

For your purposes it probably doesn't make any difference.
 
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