Preventing rust on a blue finish for carry?

b737lvr

b737lvr

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First off I’m asking this here simply because I believe this section is the most relevant to a time when this was very common. I recently acquired a new Model 36 and really want to carry it everywhere I go. I much prefer a steel J frame over the airweights and I have a major affinity for blued J frames. Ok, the question…

What is the most effective method of preventing rust? My critical thinking tells me that simply rubbing my finger, with a conservative amount of oil like CLP, all over the steel is the way to do it. When it eventually gets dry just reapply. Is it this simple? I’m located in the humid hot south so the last thing I want to find on the is rust.
 
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Frailer said:
I use Renaissance Wax.
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I considered that but I was cautioned against it as the wax, over time as it’s applied, can get into areas not wanted and gum up the function. From what I can tell wax is more for storage or show than it is for a carry gun
 
The best way is to carry an air weight like a 642. Or pocket carry, but then you have to worry about the pocket lint bunnies.
 
Doug G said:
The best way is to carry an air weight like a 642. Or pocket carry, but then you have to worry about the pocket lint bunnies.
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I have an Airweight Chief (637) but I’ve delegated it as a range only pistol because I don’t trust the internal lock on an airweight and I prefer the heavier steel frame of the M36.
 
It is true that if oil and wax mix, they will form a grease, but wax works well on exterior surfaces. Renaissance Wax is probably the best, but Johnson's paste floor wax works well too and you could even use pure Carnuba automotive wax. Other than that, keep it well oiled or have it plated in nickel or hard chrome, but that gets real expensive.
 
Keeping my blued revolvers rust free is a two step process . I have some old school cotton baby diapers . They are used to wipe down my guns and remove all fingerprints before oiling them . I haven't found anything softer or more absorbent than a 100 % cotton baby diaper . Removing all traces of fingerprints goes a long way to preventing corrosion .
 
b737lvr said:
First off I’m asking this here simply because I believe this section is the most relevant to a time when this was very common. I recently acquired a new Model 36 and really want to carry it everywhere I go. I much prefer a steel J frame over the airweights and I have a major affinity for blued J frames. Ok, the question…

What is the most effective method of preventing rust? My critical thinking tells me that simply rubbing my finger, with a conservative amount of oil like CLP, all over the steel is the way to do it. When it eventually gets dry just reapply. Is it this simple? I’m located in the humid hot south so the last thing I want to find on the is rust.
Click to expand...
Since I started using BALLISTOL years ago, I haven't seen any rust on my pieces. Prior to that, I used a car wax that was clear as not to cloud the blued guns.
 
b737lvr said:
I considered that but I was cautioned against it as the wax, over time as it’s applied, can get into areas not wanted and gum up the function. From what I can tell wax is more for storage or show than it is for a carry gun
Click to expand...

I would beg to differ with those who make this claim.

But that’s OK; everyone is entitled to their opinion. As for me, wax goes in the outside, and oil goes on the inside. I don’t want to carry an oily gun, and it works for me.
 
I’m gonna go ahead and just try the CLP idea, keeping it at a minimal thin amount. I’ve been doing this with my model 10 and haven’t had any rust on it yet and I’ve had it sitting in the hot humid car at times right after shooting. If I ever notice it is not working I’ll update the thread about it. I’m pretty convinced that even when CLP dries it’s leaving behind a protective layer. If it didn’t work I think I would have noticed it in my 1894, 870, and Model 10 by now down here.
 
I carried revolvers for quite a few years for duty and just wiped them down occasionally with whatever gun oil I had at the time, just leaving a film but not oily to the touch. Duty gun stayed in the holster 24 hours a day unless wet and I often carried it exposed in foul weather. Sweaty hands and arm got the backstrap a little rusty but the rest was mainly bluing loss but if I saw any trace of rust I used oil and steel wool. Duty or not, if your carrying it every day it is a working gun so it is OK to look the part.
 
You can keep a revolver pristine or you can carry and use it. Not both. You need to practice presentations, resulting in holster wear. You need to do practice and drills, both live and dry fire, resulting in drag lines, etc. Just carrying it will do a little buffing here and scratching there. Corrosion protection is part of the cleaning regime you will perform on your valuable life saving device.
None of the above will result in keeping the revolver "like new*. To keep it like new, keep it in the safe.
 
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