I have been loading on the Lee Breach Lock press and am thinking to buy one of their turret presses (either 3 or 4 hole). I like the break lock because of the Lee quick change die system, using their quick change bushings.

I am looking for feedback / suggestions on experiences with Lee Turret presses and their autodisk system. I had a stand alone Lee perfect powder measure but switched to RCBS uniflow. The Lee powder measure leaked alot when loading fine powders such as Accurate #5. RCBS powder measure is much better.

If you buy a turret, it is most convenient to use interchangeable die plates and leave the dies permanently installed--just switch plates and shell holder.

I prefer the 4-holer so I can seat and crimp on separate stations.

I modified my turret press to mount a separate powder measure with more precise adjustments than the Lee disk powder measure. YMMV

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Science plus Art

I'll second all that. I mounted my powder measure just behind the press on a pair of vertical 2x4s screwed together. I made the arrangement just high enough so that the drop tube is above the top of the funnel which sits in the charge die. I can transfer powder from the measure to the funnel very quickly and with little likelihood of spillage.

Andy

Started with a couple of 1 Holers went to a Red 4 Holer for a few months, changed over to a Blue 5 Holer with a case feeder a few years back. Love the Powder Check Station and the No B.S. Customer Service .
Continue to use the Singles on occasion, R.I.P. for 4 Holer.

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Old Shootist

That's the same route I took.

Went from the breech lock to the Lee Classic 4 holeTurret. Shouldof wouldof , couldof, just started with the turret.

The 4 hole so you can use the Factory crimp die which is worth it. Especially for semi auto rounds.

Anyway, just by some extra turret plates and the Lee Powder pro disc system and you can change calibers in a minute.

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Still Running Against the Wind

If you go with the Lee turret get the "Classic" turret it has a cast iron base and heavier duty linkage than the standard model with the cast aluminum base. I own both.

I bought a cast alum. LEE C press for decapping and found out I needed to make a couple of changes, thought you might want to know: Of course I drilled a hole threw my bench so the used primers could drop threw.
Not wanting them on the floor I used a one quart milk bottle (plastic). I cut it just below the handle, than cut all corners down about 3/4 inch, bending three sides and stapling them to the bottom of the bench. The front 3/4 inch stapled to the front of the bench. You can cut a door into the front and tape it closed after it fills (to empty).
The primers on this press (C PRESS) seem to get by the intended slot so I took a chaulk board eraser (1/4 inch felt) and cut off one section of it. I than cut 2 two inch pieces and glued them (contact cement) to the red paint of the press ONLY. They are stiff enough to push against the shaft without any harm done and keeps the used primers from falling out onto the floor. I took the shaft off so not to cement it. I also washed the red paint with Hoppies solvent and again with rubbing alcohol. Contact cementing the edge of the felt also. You could wrap the shaft with seran wrap to keep the shaft from getting any cement on it, let dry 5 minutes before applying felt to press. I let it stand over night before using. Seems to work great. Hope this helps! Bob & Wife

I use the Lee Classic Turret 4 hole. It works really well except for the auto primer. I just can't get it to work properly, so I load my primers one at a time .........no biggy for me! I also use the Lee Pro powder measure which I find to be very accurate, even with powders like Unique, as long as you keep the powder at a consistent level. I bought the micrometer device for the powder measure which was well worth the extra $10. It allows you to make fine adjustments which you can't do with the disks.
As mentioned, extra plates allow you to change calibers in minutes.

I had this same issue. Make sure you set the washer above the mount and then watch as you set the bolt tight that it doesn't alter where the foot goes to load the primer. It pretty much lines up perfect and you almost never drop a primer or it doesn't work at all. Once I got it I wanted to JB Weld the bolt in place to never mess with it again...

I started with a Lee Turret, went to the Pro1000, and now I'm using the Lee Classic Turret. I'm pretty happy with it, although I might wish for faster round production. But that's not an issue with the machine, but the type. I don't use the automatic priming system so I have no issues with that.

so you have a single stage you can develop loads on ... good.
why a turret? get thee a progressive press as that is the next logical step.

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it just needs more voltage

2 XL650s, 1 RL450B with some extras, 3 Square Deal Bs (two are at children's houses getting used), a Lee Classic Cast Turret Press, an RS-3, and an old Herter's with a really funny story behind it, about does it for my loading equipment.

Even with all of the progressives, I am building every single .358 WSSM round on my Lee Classic Cast Turret Press, single stage fashion.

If throughput needs to go up, get a progressive. Some really like the Hornady LNL -AP, some really like Dillon, I like presses that work. Mine are mostly blue. Still, they aren't the ONLY presses that have a place on a reloading bench.

I really like the SDB for medium production of a few handgun rounds. Best bang for the buck. The dies come with the caliber conversion. If you buy an RL550B or an XL650, the conversions are still $80 and you have to buy some brand of dies after that.

FWIW