Well BV here we go with the marksmanship thing again, you got to use them marksmanship skills to hit um clean to be able to eat um. I’m sure you shoot more 38/357’s than me so you know which bullets are the best to use in the real world.
Here’s a pistol that I bought new back in 87, used wc’s to hunt rabbit with it & rn bullets to hunt deer with. Somehow I managed to kill 3 deer in 3 seasons with the rn bullets with no problem. I’ve only had to send this pistol back to S&W once to get it rebuilt back in 2006, wore the timing out. Note the lee rnfp bullets in the background.
What I shot this year & reloaded for next year/season. 38’s on the left of the coffee can & 357’s on the right. These are only the lyman 358311 158g rn bullets & the lee 158g rnfp bullets.
I’m just now getting started on the 38/357 wc loads/bullets/reloading. A pic of the lyman 358495 bullets being processed, extra lee 158g rnfp bullets already sized/lubed & my lyman 358311 rn bullet mold. I loaded all the bullets I cast in the 358311’s. Note the use of 4 & 6 cavity molds exclusively for the 38/357’s, volume shooting requires volume casting.
Now you want to talk about a real world devastating bullet, use a full wc bullet. These things get mid-evil on anything they hit (bigger meplat, you know the 10” & deposit all the energy thing). A sized bullet with a 38wc (left) for target/small game, a hot 357 wc load (center) for the revolver & hot wc 357 load (right) for a contender.
Yup, I need to get out in the real world more & do some real shooting/hunting & quit using those useless ballistic programs. The OP asked about the difference in bullets, I gave them a real world answer.