New Starline Brass - Need Sizing?

doc540

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I hauled off and bought new Starline brass in both .44 Mag and .357.

Might even get here today.

Does new brass need sizing or any other special prep?

Or should I just expand it, prime it and load it?
 
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I size all new brass just to get the dings out. Sometimes the mouth is dented and sometimes they will be a little oversized at the mouth.

John
 
All new brass needs to be sized. If you buy rifle brass it may also need to be trimmed. If you want to be super anal perfect with your revolver crimp then they may also need to be trimmed. We are talking about a very mass produced on a high speed line product.
 
size it all no matter what.
essentially what comes out of the bags and boxes of new brass essentially rained out of the end of the machine that made it.
the rate is just too fast for an operator to inspect even 1 out of 100 cases.
 
I've reloaded thousands of their .38 brass by simply expanding, priming and loading. I've never found the need to resize (new brass), it loads and shoots just fine. I'm very pleased with the quality of their brass. And FYI, their Website has a FAQ section that addresses that issue.
 
On revolver loads you probably could get by without sizing their brass as it is pretty good stuff. But as a general rule, yes size it and also check for length.

It's the right thing to do.:)
 
I load mostly Starline brass. I never bother to size any of the new handgun brass with the exception of 32-20 (sometimes has dents). Haven't had any problems so far.
 
I never size new brass. And with tens of thousands used, I have never had a problem.

You specifically asked about brass that will be fired in a revolver. For revolver brass, I use a Lyman M expander on it as my prep after using a chamfer tool to take the sharp edge off the inside of the neck. The M die will straighten the necks and prepare it for bullet seating.

For rifle brass, I run the expander through the neck to straighten it. The necks in their annealed state are soft and will not be perfectly round.

I do check the shoulder of rifle brass for headspace and what I have always found is that it already is set back too far. I check length and chamfer the inside and outside of the neck.

I also realize that the majority of folks do size new brass prior to loading. I'm just saying my experience indicates the sizing step is unnecessary and provides no benefit.

If you have a Wilson case gage, just drop them in and see if the case shows any problems.
 
Do you need to FL size? No.
Should you? Yes, and also trim to a uniform length. As previously noted, some percentage of cases received will have case mouth dents which will usually go away with neck expansion..
 
5 extra cases

Doc
I got a bag of Starline 357 brass a couple months ago and I did measure them all. They varied from 1.279" to 1.286" and 80% of them were between 1.282" and 1.284". I did trim them all to 1.280" - but I have to admit I had also just bought a new case trimmer and wanted to try it out. I actually didn't expect to see any shavings come off under the trimmer - but there was a decent size pile of little strips. Oh! and as a bonus, because I measured and documented it, I found out I got an extra 5 cases. That brass is on its 3rd reload and checks of a dozen or so cases each go round show that they're still at 1.280".

If you're shooting like I think you are - for tight target groups - the advice I'm getting is - reduce or eliminate as many of the variables as possible.

Keep posting - its getting cold here in MD and I am spending more time at the loading bench than at the range.
 
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If you cant shoot at least a 95 with 1 hand @ 25 yards you dont need to worry about this. I have never trimed any pistol brass that made a difference.--I do not chunk my pistol brass until it cracks. Rifle is different. I have mixed up 10 different loads in a 45 acp- 185-200 gr. with different powder charges & they shoot the same place @ 25 yards with a good gun.
 
No problem with the 10MM

I bought a thousand 10MM, they all fit the case gauge. Primed, expanded and loaded, I check every 10 on the gauge and everything was peaches.

Function flawlessly in my 1006. Any misses are mine, not the brass.

All that being said...your weapon, your choice.
 
Doc
If you're shooting like I think you are - for tight target groups - the advice I'm getting is - reduce or eliminate as many of the variables as possible.
Keep posting - its getting cold here in MD and I am spending more time at the loading bench than at the range.

Yessir, I'm working for accuracy so I can shoot steel silhouettes at 50 yds, so I need to be able to shoot at least 5" groups, standing with two hands and iron sights.

Using new brass is another variable I'm trying to eliminate.

I think I have the 629 loads just about dialed in, but I'm chasing my tail with the 686. Even ordered new .357 brass last night, too.

More pics soon as the quest continues.
 
4 barrel
Doc is a shooter and shooting instructor.
He's just starting on reloading - but he competes at 50 yard Silhouettes and just won a recent match - don't know what score he shoots. But his are interesting series of threads to follow - because his shooting techniques and guns aren't the question - they are the constants - and the questions come down to reloading components and loading technique.

The question becomes - which reloading practices actually make the differences and which do not?

to a novice, like me - I agree, the biggest thing is keeping the sights lined up with the target while pulling the trigger. But without an accurate gun and accurate ammo, developing accurate shooting technique is difficult. With factory rounds, on a rest (25 yards), I do 3"-4" patterns. With my reloads, on a rest (25 yards) I can do 1" groups.

Kind of makes me want to buy a Ransom Rest soon.
 
I bought new Starline .41 Magnum brass when I started loading it years
ago. Did not size it. Had no problems and the loads were accurate enough for bowling pins at eight yards and steel plates farther out.
 
I use a Lee turret press and it sizes and primes on the same operation (unless you remove the die) Judging by the minimal resistance, the Starline doesn't need much or any sizing.
 
4 barrel
Doc is a shooter and shooting instructor.
He's just starting on reloading - but he competes at 50 yard Silhouettes and just won a recent match - don't know what score he shoots. But his are interesting series of threads to follow - because his shooting techniques and guns aren't the question - they are the constants - and the questions come down to reloading components and loading technique.

The question becomes - which reloading practices actually make the differences and which do not?

to a novice, like me - I agree, the biggest thing is keeping the sights lined up with the target while pulling the trigger. But without an accurate gun and accurate ammo, developing accurate shooting technique is difficult. With factory rounds, on a rest (25 yards), I do 3"-4" patterns. With my reloads, on a rest (25 yards) I can do 1" groups.

Kind of makes me want to buy a Ransom Rest soon.

Yessir, I've wrestled with the expense of a Ransom Rest just to know for sure how well my ammo is shooting.

I can shoot accurately enough to win matches, and my guns are, indeed, accurate.

But, like you pointed out, being new to reloading is almost like starting all over again.

And most everyone keeps telling me I should be able to reload .357 with 158 gr SWC's that shoot as accurately as factory ammo.

This is the reloading goal I'm pursuing.
best2.jpg


I have a match this Saturday, and I'm going to just shoot more of that Rem UMC ammo even though 125's tend to turn some of the steel animals instead of knock them down.

.357 loads are still in the test stages
 
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