Hello, folks.

This isn't realoding related per se, but I'd like to tap your expertise on the topic as I feel you'd be the most qualified and this forum section the most relevant.

I'd like to know what would be the simplest, most cost-effective way to cut the rim off brass cases. The lady is interested in making jewelry (such as this: 40 Smith Wesson Winchester Nickel Bullet by wildwestjewelryshop, Disclaimer: those are NOT my/our wares.) with them. We've got the rest of the steps figured out, but not how to cut them.

Any insight on the topic would be appreciated. If the mods feel that this post is inadequate, then please do lock/erase/move it.

Thanks in advance,
~hachabrava

Metal-cutting bandsaw would be the easy and safe in my opinion. You could try a hack saw but it would be difficult to hold while cutting without marring the finish.

Harbor Freight has a baby chop saw that I think uses fiber blades that I know guys use to cut down cases for making different wildcat brass like .308 into .45-08 brass. That would be my choice if I wanted to cut a bunch of cases.

I do work like that with a Dremel Tool and an abrasive cut off bit.
I cut off small bolts that way.
A hole drilled in a steel plate just the right size to hold the case should help get an accurate cut.
I slide the bit along the plate to cut bolts to just the right length.


Best,
Rick

I 2'nd the Dremel abrasive wheel. I have tried to cut various thin brass tubing and cases with a fine (32 tooth) hacksaw and it just doesn't work. Not enough teeth engaged to prevent it from grabbing. The Dremel makes a very nice cut. The key is to have it well supported so your cut is straight.

Tubing cutter from Home Depot.

A while back I made some wildcat cases (.30 Herritt), basically shoving the shoulder back on .30-30 cases to make then shorter. The excess neck was cut off with a tubing cutter, and very easily.

If I were going to use a fine hack saw, I would first fill the case with thickened epoxy and let it cure.
I use cab-o-sil to thicken it, but even sawdust works.

Best,
Rick

Somebody on another forum uses a Harbor Freight type CHOP SAW to make 300 Blackout brass cases.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Agree on the Dremel. I like the fiber metal cutting wheels.
Stick the case onto a dowel to support it.
If not totally obvious, don't do this with a live primer in the case!

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

I used a knife with the stiff replaceable blade, put the brass on a board, put the knife where you want to cut and roll the case back and forth under the blade, pressing hard. Only takes a few seconds of rolling.

I cut down cases, filed them to the right size, soldered a brass wire handle on them and used them for powder dippers. I can make any size I want.

Thank you all for the insight. I'll probably acquire a Dremel tool for the job. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Plumbers have a tool to cut copper tubing and it would only need a wooden dowel to hold the case steady and make a clean cut.

Good luck, what ever you decide on.

Dremel with a cut off blade.

Even the smallest tube/pipe cutter will not fit evenly over the head of the case. The rollers on both sides of the cutter wheel have to be on the case or pipe, she is cutting to close to the end.

A regular hack saw with a fine tooth blade will work or a mini hack saw. The closer to the end (head) the thicker the brass is in the web area.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Me too.

And with this jig I can cut 100 in a matter of minutes to the exact length (adjustable).

http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/view...?f=179&t=80842

He can, most likely, make you a jig for that. It should cost a little more, being you only need one, but with it you could go into business, literally. haha

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A real sucker for the J-frames

If I were going to do a number of them and I assume you are. Plus a number of different sizes (calibers),,I'd check and see if a couple of the LEE case trimming gadgets could help you.

Case Trimming Tools - Lee Precision

Their power case trimming tools hold on to the case by the rim, so that's a nice feature. I'd get the Universal 3-Jaw Chuck for $16 that'll fit any caliber you want.

I get a Cutter & Lock Stud for $7. (Two sizes, small & large. But it's the Lock Stud you're after, not the cutter)
The Lock Stud you'll need as it attaches the above 3 Jaw Chuck to an electric drill for you.
With the drill secured in a vise, you can lock a case in the 3-Jaw, turn on the drill and cut the excess brass off w/a hacksaw while the case is spinning. A 32 tpi blade would do fine.
While it's still spinning, a fine file could be used to trim the brass back to the final dimension needed. A touch with some fine grit abrasive cloth while spinning and that case is completed. Nice smooth, even and clean.

Seems quick, easy and an easy way to handle the cases w/o damaging them while cutting.
The only thing that may sink the whole idea is if the 3 jaw won't secure the case well enough to cut and file on it while it's spinning. It's made to be used as a trimmer w/a piloted cutter coming in from the mouth of the case so there's no side pressure on the case doing that.

Just an idea. May it'll help figuring something out. Looks like pretty neat jewelry!

Chuck the case in the lathe and use the parting tool.

That's how I would do it, although I would probably cut a mandrel out of wood to slide the case over, then bring the tailstock up to support the bottom of the case, and keep it in place after parting.

It's about time someone figured out that a Lathe is the best tool for this task. However I would strongly recommend using a Collet to hold the casing instead of a Scroll Chuck. The problem with using a chuck is that you can't get a good solid grip using a chuck so if the cutter digs in you have chunks of cuttoff tool and workpiece flying everywhere, not pleasant. A collet provides a full perimeter contact and is just the ticket for something like this.

Bad news is that lathes aren't cheap, a small bench lathe will typically start at about 1000 dollars. In addition I don't know if one of the small bench lathes can be set up with a quick release collet. If you are interrest in taking this route I would suggest contacting a Machine Shop Equipment dealer such as Production Tool.

Another vote for the cheap hf mini-chopsaw. They use metal blades that when lubed (a bar of soap or candle held against the spinning blade every 10 cuts) will easily make strait or angled cuts in shell cases.

I cut 1000+ shell cases a year to make bullets with. After the cases are trimmed to length I seat lead cores & swage them into bullets.

Some 220gr 45acp hp's that I make out of 40s&w cases.



Some 165gr 30cal bullets that I make from 9mm/380acp/32acp cases.



147gr 9mm & 357 for the 38/357 from 9mm/380acp cases.



220gr .430 bullets for the 44spl/mag.



I'm showing you all these bullets because I would never do them if I had to use a cast trimmer or a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.

I do own a case trimmer, have for decades & a dremel tool and have tried them both. Waaaay to time consuming!!!!

I like the idea your bullets ....would love know more on how you do it.

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S&W Accumulator

220gr .430 bullets for the 44spl/mag.

I like the idea of your bullets ....would love know more on how you do it.

Me too! What cases are you using for those 44 bullets? I need to
start picking those up at the range.

---
Nemo

The 45acp's & 44's are made from 40s&w cases.

I'm using old shell cases for 1/2 jackets, they either go threw draw dies to shrink them down or a bump die to expand them bigger.

The nose profiles are made from either cast bullets used for the lead cores or a nose forming die. I have/own a mini-lathe (hobby lathe) so I can easily make my own nose profiles.

I'm only limited to what I can make by my own imagination. This winter when I have some time I plan on making xpt dies/bullets for the 9mm, 38/357, 44's & 45's.

I would use a small band saw with a fine tooth blade. Please use a vise grip to hold the cartridge as they do get hot...

I have been making Brass jewlry and when I first started cutting the nickel was not burning but now I have been cutting and all the bras and the nickel is burning. Can someone help me with what can i do to not have it burn. We use a 6" cutt-off saw. Thank you.

most brass work is a job for a lathe of some form.
most case trimmers are exactly that, small, usually hand operated, lathes.

I figure a cross slide vise, drill press, Lee case trimmers, and a lathe bit might prove quite satisfactory for the OP's needs.

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it just needs more voltage

I've cut 1000's of pieces of brass and never burned them with nothing more than a cheap harbor freight mini cut-off saw.



The main players:
The saw itself
A used hacksaw blade
A 1"square 1/2" high v-block
A flat piece of steel screwed to the side of the saw that is threaded for a 1/4-20 screw (part stop).

The v-block is used to keep the brass from moving/spinning. The 1" square 1/2" thick v-block next to a 40s&w case.



Simply set the brass to be cut in the v-block & adjust the 1/4-20 screw over until you have the piece of brass lined up with the saw blade at the point where you want to cut it. Then put the hacksaw blade (hacksaw blade is screwed to the back of the saws table/lower than the brass being cut/puts tension & holds the brass down and against the stop) on the piece of brass and slide the blade to the left (toward the 1/4-20 stop screw). When the piece of brass is held against the stop screw then press down on the hacksaw blade. That holds the brass tightly in place to be cut.

Another look at the stop screw, v-block & hacksaw blade.



A piece of brass in the saw and ready to be cut.



The thin metal blades the saw uses are made for cutting soft steel/metals. Extra blades (3 packs) can also be bought from harbor freight.

Every ten cuts I'll use a piece of soap or paraffin to lube the blade. Simply put the lube against the blade with the saw running for 2 or 3 seconds on each side. Doing this extends the life of the blade. The 1st blade made it thru 90 to 100 cuts. After that I started lubing the blade and have made 1000's of cuts with the same blade.

These saws will easily cut thru brass/nickel plated brass without leaving any burn marks. Their able to do this because the extremely thin blade actually cuts the metal. Go slow ='s no heat/burn marks and the cut will actually even be burr free.

Hope this helps.

Thank you forrest r. If i have the 6 inch 55 amp cut off saw would that be too much power or I have both. I started using the mini aand then I went to the 6 inch cut off saw. When i started the mini was not cutting as fast and when I went to the 6 inch it cut faster and didn't burn but now it is. so should I go back to the mini.

I do this as well. It is by far the easiest and fastest way to do it.
these saws are cheap on amazon even free shipping.
I can chop 100 cases in about 30 minutes without a jig. With a jig (you can make yourself) I can do 100 in 15 minutes. The jig insures you chop at the same length every time. Just shove the case on the jig, pull down the handle , repeat. Highly recomended.

Also like to add.. get the 2" fine tooth (100 tpi) Praxxon saw blade that can cut soft metal.
called :
HSS saw blade for KS 115

It will last alot longer than a typical chop blade/disk and make a better cut without burning

Sorry Forrest, didnt scroll down enough to see your elaborate post before I posted.

Yes OP, what he said