Speer half jackets .357
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Those are GREAT projectiles. Super accurate. While they did suffer from jacket separation in some hunting incidents I wish they were still made.
Sorry. I thought you were revering to the Jacket SWCs that Speer used to manufacture. Like the one on the right
If Just another 22 shooter backs out because of a similar misunderstanding, I do swage projectiles for my 357s and could still make use of them.
If Just another 22 shooter backs out because of a similar misunderstanding, I do swage projectiles for my 357s and could still make use of them.
...or they can be filled with shot and glued into place to make your own "safety slugs". As long as you are careful to keep their balance symmetric. Or if you heat the shot until they melt you can compress them to fill the jacket in better.
Sounds interseting
Would you then weigh them and use a powder charge for that weight?? What COL to use? Like a wad cutter?
I can use these half-jackets, I'm a swager.
Edited to
Edited to
WaMike
Member
Somewhere in the bowels of my cabinets is a box of half-jacketed bullets. The only time I loaded and shot them, the jacket separated, including one stuck in the barrel (thank goodness I checked after each shot).
Mine aren't crimped like the one in colt saa's post.....which, of course, is why the separation issues.
I presume that you swaggers have the appropriate crimp die. If I find said bullets (I might have melted them down), is there a way to easily crimp?
Mine aren't crimped like the one in colt saa's post.....which, of course, is why the separation issues.
I presume that you swaggers have the appropriate crimp die. If I find said bullets (I might have melted them down), is there a way to easily crimp?
Rule3,
If filled with shot they are going to be lighter than a solid lead jacketed bullet due to the spaces between the pellets, even if they are filled with epoxy.
The best way to start is to find the COAL that suits you best. If it's for an auto that will be where they feed the best. With revolvers you can pretty much load them anyway you want, so use data for a bullet that seats about to the same depth as where you estimate your shot cups will be, start low and work your way up.
If filled with shot they are going to be lighter than a solid lead jacketed bullet due to the spaces between the pellets, even if they are filled with epoxy.
The best way to start is to find the COAL that suits you best. If it's for an auto that will be where they feed the best. With revolvers you can pretty much load them anyway you want, so use data for a bullet that seats about to the same depth as where you estimate your shot cups will be, start low and work your way up.
Fredo Batali
Member
The half jackets still work great in my Model 57 (I found a fellow at a gun show with a sizable stash). Speer has a caveat in their early loading manuals concerning these bullets. "The 146 gr. HP and 160 SP straight-sided jacketed bullets may separate core from jacket if fired at low velocities, with the possibility of the jacket remaining in the barrel. The lighter charge shown for each powder should be considered MINIMUM" The same holds true for the 200 gr HP and the 220 SP half jackets.
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