cost of reloading?

im sure this is a broad question, what would it cost me to start reloading? I have nothing but my brass I always save.
9mm 45 38 357.
also how much money do you save by reloading?
thank you

A few hundred dollars.....

A few hundred dollars can get you started right. See this list:

MidwayUSA ? Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes

If you keep it very simple and don't have to add every toy, it can save money. What it does for MOST people is allow them to shoot more without breaking the bank. I would not be able to shoot paying $25-$30 for 20 rounds of factory ammo. Now I just load up and shoot whatever I want to. I can put 10 pounds of lead down the range and not feel like I'm throwing money down there instead of lead. Your choice of caliber can make a difference too. If you load a forgiving cartridge like .38spec/.357 you don't really need a caliper. If you load automatic cartridges you GOTTA have a caliper. With .38/.357 or some straight walled revolver cartridge, you don't need case trimmers and such.

One good thing we've discovered lately about reloading is that if you are stocked up on supplies, you don't worry about shortages where you can't find ANY ammo anywhere.

You can get loads of lead cast bullets for about a nickel each in bulk. A pound can of Bullseye will load thousands of rounds of target ammo. If you want plated it will cost more or jacketed bullets it will cost about 3x as much. Coated bullets are the latest thing now. You get your brass and take care of it and it lasts a long time, some say up to around 20 reloads at target level charges. Also I can make whatever I want. Mouse Poots to Atom Bombs in my .357 and my 30-06.
The upshot of all this is is that you probably won't save a lot of money, but you can shoot more and longer for the same amount of money.

Keeping it REALLY simple. I used Lee hand loaders for several years, the initial expense was minimal. If I didn't mind the time and effort I could have done it that way forever. I wouldn't recommend this route however. You miss out on a lot of stuff by not having the versatility a decent set up can give you. With a good scale you can know EXACTLY what is going into a cartridge.

First get manuals with good 'how to' sections and read them thoroughly. It's not rocket science but you have to know what you're doing and be careful. I have the Speer and the Lyman and Lyman cast lead manuals, and they have good instructions. Other people can recommend books they consider to be essential.

I have blabby fingers but I'll stop there for now.

PS: Aw, I couldn't stop. What kind of equipment you'll get is (besides what you can spend) how much production you need to make. Some people shoot a thousand rounds a week. I shoot a few hundred rounds in month if I can get to the range. I get by with a single stage press. I think a turret press would be ideal for me and right now I don't need the complexity and cost of a progressive press. What you buy is set by what kind of and how much shooting you are going to do.


Good luck, you won't be sorry if you get into reloading. Some people economize even further by casting their own bullets, especially if they have a source of cheap or even free lead.

45-70 at around 40 bucks for 20, you will be a reloader.
Some calibers prompt this faster than others, but all do it eventually.
Figure about a 250 budget to cover the core essentials and some of the nickel and dime stuff.

Save money by reloading? Ha Ha Ha.

Oh wait, you were serious? Let me laugh harder - HA HA HA!

Actually you can save money per round if you shop in bulk and don't include the cost of your time in the process. But reloading is about far more than the cost per round. The ability to tailor loads to your specs, the ability to make ammo when there isn't any available in your caliber (or in some cases no longer produced at all), as a hobby, as a way to learn more about firearms in general, as a way to shoot more for the same dollars spent. My average cost per round at the moment in consumables (primer, powder, projectile) is about 13 cents per round (not including the original cost of brass, most of which was part of factory ammo I bought before I started reloading but some of which is range pickup) - and that might drop a bit when I start using the powder I just bought in bulk and could drop another penny or two if I switched to cast bullets - and even more if I cast my own). So I could buy .223 at about 40 cents a round on sale or I can reload my own for about 17 cents a round - meaning I can shoot twice as much for the same price per round. Of course that 17 cents doesn't include some items such as lube and water to rinse and rags or my time - but even if I were to tack on 3 cents per round for incidentals that is still half the price.
I didn't include the cost of the the press and the dies etc since those should last for decades and the more ammo you make the lower the cost per round produced.

sawlog said:

im sure this is a broad question, what would it cost me to start reloading? I have nothing but my brass I always save.
9mm 45 38 357.
also how much money do you save by reloading?
thank you

Click to expand...

You can start for as little as $200-$300 or spend $1000 or more on loading equipment. It's all up to you and how easy or fast you want to load.

As for how much you will save, probably nothing. Most of us start loading to save money but end up shooting a lot more for the same costs.

Example, a box of .38 special ammo will cost ~$20 Retail. You can load about 4 boxes for the same cost and if you have the ammo on the shelf I have a feeling you will shoot it, I know I do!

When I started loading I was able to recover the equipment costs within 4 months. Of course over the years I have bought a lot more equipment but the initial start up was recouped in about 4 months.

I started for less than $200 for a Lee single station press, dies (2 sets for .38 and .45), powder measure, scale. The powder right now is hard to find. I bought an 8 lb jug of promo (shotgun powder) for $115. It'll last forever. I bought cases, bullets and primers and when I figured cost per box of 50 I came up with $7 for 45's and $6 for .38 special. I use lead bullets and I don't load anything special, just simple target loads. A big plus is you can load them the way you like to get the best accuracy. It does make me shoot more so I probably spend the same amount I would have shooting factory ammo but I can shoot three times as much for that money.

How much will you save? Not possible to answer given all the variables involved.

So, figure out how much you spend on each type of factory ammo each year. Take 40% of that number for common pistol caliber ammo (9mm, 45, etc FMJRN type), take 40% of cheap 223 ammo, take 50% of common bottleneck rifle and specialty pistol (eg premium hollow point), and take 66% of match rifle ammo. Add all that up - that's what you can save in a year . . . more or less . . . it's a rough estimate given the "data" you gave us that's as good as any lol.

What will you spend? $Equipment, $Inventory, $Tools, $Storage, Time, and space.

$Equipment: Press, scale, calipers, dies, tumbler, miscellaneous (Bullet puller, several other small tools for rifle, etc) depending on how you start. For multiple calibers and decent but small annual volumes plan on $500, and most of us quickly get to $1000. Production batches of 50 can reasonably use different equipment from batches of ~200 and different again from batches of 500 or more. One isn't going to do batches of 500 on a hand tool, and won't do batches less than 500-1000 on a progressive press. Can give you a better entry cost knowing calibers and annual volume.

$Inventory: To keep cost down you buy components in bulk: powder in 4-8lb jugs, bullets in 500 to 1000 lots, primers in 5k lots. Of course this inventory becomes your ammo, but you will always be keeping some amount of that on hand.

$Tools: If you have tools around the house, you may not need to buy the wrenches, drills, etc. that reloading makes use of. Most of us need to buy at least a couple of "common" hand tools.

Storage: Component inventory has to go someplace. Reloading equipment must be mounted on something. And so on. You may have this stuff empty or repurposeable around . . . you may not.

Space: You are puttting together what amounts to a tiny to small machine shop. It will not go well in most living rooms

Time: If you don't have time to read and learn and then reload and learn some more, don't even think about reloading. You are trading time for the savings . . . BUT YOU ALSO GET . . .

. . . a really nice hobby, at least for most of us. Precision loading for rifle is quite fun, and will also deliver better performing, more consistent ammo for most rifles (and even for pistols) than you can buy from the factory.

Savings on handgun ammo depends on the calaber.
My S&W 38-40 would cost me alot IF I could find the ammo.
Same with rifle ammo. I had a Weatherby .416 for a time, $8.00 per round!
I hand loaded it with some of the best bullets around for less then $4.00
per round.
Same thing with my .340 WBY.
The thing is you can shoot more and make rounds that can out preform anything you can buy in most calabers.
But saving money is not the reason to hand load, but it helps! LOL!

If you reload and shoot more you can be a better shot.

Cost? HA!

I started out with $50.00 around 1987. I bought a Lee hand loader, the kind you use a hammer to drive the case into the sizing die. and a scale.

I now use a Dillion 450 upgraded to a 550. I also have a single stage rock chucker. I did cast my own bullets for 20 or so years. I could shoot a box of 45s for $1.50 when I started. Now its more like $5.00 a box for store bought bullets and the new prices on powder and primer.

My reloads are as good or better than factory stuff.
David

I just started and have not broken even yet but I will soon. When I add in equipment and the cost of wood to build the bench, I have spent around 900 bucks. As for shooting more, that's up to you. I have fired about 300 of my reloads, but I've been off for the summer. I go back to work in two weeks and will probably shoot 500 rounds between September and June. I just like being able to crank out ammo and stockpile it for when the mood strikes me to shoot again. .38 target loads at Walmart are 25 bucks for 50 rounds. That is insane. I can reload 100 rounds for less then 10 bucks.

I have a friend that tells me that he can not find any powder for reloading handguns. He is looking for Clay's and Winchester???.

Is he correct?

Core Essentials. Note, much of this list was result of trying to go "cheap" on some items and learning the hard way "cheap" can cost more that going first class out of the gates.

Press - RCBS Rockchucker Supreme. On sale from Fin, Feather, & Fur at 119 dollars but typically about 152.99 at Midway.

Powder Measure - RCBS Competition Handgun version 121.95, Rifle & Handgun Kit 174.95.

Scale - RCBS 502 beam type 74.99 and Midway. This is IMO the best value for money and I prefer the 2 poise design, some like the more expensive 505 with it's more complicated 3 poise design.

Hand Primer - RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool 60.99 at Midway.

Digital Scale - Frankfort Arsenal DS-750. Note, the zero on this scale will start to drift after it's been turned on for a while, sometimes in as little as 30 seconds. So, don't rely on it as a primary scale. However it is useful for checking you have your primary set correctly and only costs 29.99 at Midway.

Digital Caliper - PTS: Unique Content Written By Experts.... Procheck 6 inch digital, an excellent value with absolute value and auto off at 43.50. If you want a precision micrometer to measure bullet diameter the 0-1 inch Procheck digital 4 1/2 place micrometer lists at 82.90. Note, Production Tool commonly has either on sale, my caliper cost 34.50 and the micrometer was 49.95.

Case cleaner. Spend the money for a Thumlers Tumbler for 183.99 at Midway. Add a bag of Stainless Steel Pins to that at 46.99. Granted an expensive setup to clean cases but 2-3 hours using water, dish soap, and a 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine will result in cases that look new. There is NOTHING else that can produce better results and I know because I've tried them all. Due to it's superb design and construction these have a reputation for lasting a lifetime with only the belt needed replacement on occasion.

When I count the cost of reloading, I take into consideration the enjoyment of doing something I like. I started off slow loading mostly the. 308 win. One good point to look at is the cost of some cartridges like the .32S/W long. Also many surplus type stuff, FMJ, is not permitted by law to hunt with.So, no problem. 6.5 Jap, $40.00 a box, no problem. Just enjoy, but keep it safe. As far as manuals, you don't need a lot as a lot of info is available at your LGS and can be downloaded from the different sites on the net. This manual I made in realy the one I use most.

MrTrolleyguy said:

I have a friend that tells me that he can not find any powder for reloading handguns. He is looking for Clay's and Winchester???.

Is he correct?

Click to expand...

While your friend may not be able to find his favorite handgun powder, there are lots of alternative handgun powders out there, if you care to do the research. Like 22LR, it's all in how badly you want it. If your friend is in western PA, a trip to central Ohio is relatively short, easy and fruitful. (This I know because of the swarm of blankety-blank Penguin fans that skulk into Nationwide Arena a half dozen times a year.) Ashland, Shelby, Hebron and Columbus all have several sources. PM me if you need details.

sawlog said:

im sure this is a broad question, what would it cost me to start reloading? I have nothing but my brass I always save.
9mm 45 38 357.
also how much money do you save by reloading?
thank you

Click to expand...

Anyone considering getting into reloading in order to save money, may be better served by taking on a second job for a few shifts a week and using that "mad money" to buy ammo.

As most suggest, you won't be saving anything, as you can afford to shoot more.

In general, I'll take about 2-4x the ammo that I'd normally shoot, which represents the equivalent cost vs similar factory ammo.

It is fun and rewarding but also time consuming. Never rush, check everything twice, every step of the way.

My gear is all cheap Lee stuff but it works well enough.

Most of my load data is from an older manual and they loaded a bit hotter back then. The starting loads usually have plenty behind them.

Cast your own bullets and you can save even more - if it's possible to "save"?

I don't know if I'm saving anything as I seem to keep buying dies for more calibers, more molds, etc. But, it does allow me to shoot more - plus, I enjoy the relation of casting and re-loading.

I look at it this way . . . I don't smoke, I don't drink (or very rarely have a drink) more do I have expensive toys like boats, snowmobiles, etc. Loading and shooting is my hobby and while I do find myself buying a new handgun or a piece of reloading equipment once in a while, I don't go "hog wild" on it.

You don't need a lot of expensive equipment to reload. You can buy a used press, what components you need and a good reloading manual and not have a lot of money tied up. Some fellows have been reloading on a single stage press for years - lots of good used ones out there. Loading dies - I use Lee mostly as they work well for me and don't break the bank. Lee molds are cheap if you want to start costing - used Lyman and Ideal molds can be picked up at reasonable prices if you just keep looking for them.

As already stated, it will allow you to shoot "more" - and if you do not go wild on expensive equipment - you will recover the cost over time but it will take a while.

Do your research on what new dies, presses, etc. cost and then start looking for used. Go on sites such as "castboolits" - even if you don't' cast, there is lots of good information and help on that site. Put "feelers" out for what you are looking for - you'd be surprised what you might come up with in terms of presses, dies, etc. - many of those items are just laying around unused as folks have lost interest, "grandpa", who reloaded, has passed away and the relatives don't know what to do with it, etc.

Good luck to you!

I started reloading in 1979. You can start with used equipment. The reasonably priced used equipment has dried up for the time being. I use to buy used single stage presses for $5-$15 ( I bought over 20), Used standard dies were often $5 for common sets including shell holder. I was surprised to learn many of the post WWII to 1965 reloaders never used a powder measure or a scale; They made dippers out of pistol cases that were tailored to a volume of a specific powder & made charts to what did how much from magazine articles in "American Rifleman" ans"Popular Mechanics". They established COAL from trial method or adjusted the dies to a factory round. Thousands of people cast bullets from a small pan on the camp stove they already had or even a few used the kitchen stove. I have bought old moulds (still in the box) that were shipped C.O.D. from Lyman to the owner for less than $8.00, Including the price of handles! These post war reloaders spent very hard earned money on good equipment and then loaded on it the rest of their lives. Their sons bought a generation or 2 better equipment and didn't need Dad's press or dies when he passed on so it was sold cheap! In the 80's I bought this stuff and made sets of reloading equipment and could get people reloading for around $30-35 in equipment. I gave several sets to Missionaries with press, dies, a can of powder and a Brick of primers, and I wasn't out $40. (Yes, many missionaries like to hunt or shoot for fun! I sent sets to South Afrika and Australia and friends of mine sent sets to several South American countries. Mostly 38 Special, but a few rifle sets also.) I'm sorry to say the vast majority of that generation of reloaders is gone and their equipment has dried up and the prices on used gear have gone up but it is out there. Those "Old timers" reloaded without digital scales and case cleaners and they (and I) made very good ammo-slowly. My first press was borrowed (and returned about a year and a half later), then I bought a used one. When I bought the Redding T-7 about 25 years later, My old Lyman Spar-T was given to a reloader and his older press was passed on. The Dies I buy now run as high as $190.00 with built in micrometers and fancy inserts. My B-I-L was reloading 223 already, when he got a 308 Bolt Gun, I set him up with good stuff mostly from RCBS. Remember: Quality equipment (new or used ) will last the rest of your life and start another generation of reloaders. Ivan

FWIW, I can reload a box of 9mm for around $7.00, and the other calibers you mentioned for a bit more. It's up to you if it's worth it to reload. One think to keep in mind, though, is that during the recent craziness I was shooting, and a lot of folks weren't

Any body want to start a pool on how many posts this thread gets? I'm going with 124.