Hello everyone. I am looking for some help please with more up to date Lee data. I use the Lee dippers to charge my cases. I am looking for one powder for both 38/357 rounds. I will be using 158 grain Speer LSWC and CCI #500 primers. Does anyone have a newer edition of the Lee manual with more up to date information? According to my copy of the book, there are only two powders that I can use for both 38/357 with 158 grain lead bullet AND the Lee dippers. Those are Accurate #5 (out of stock/backordered) and Blue Dot. Can anyone share their data from a more modern copy of the book please? Thank you for the help.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

It is very hard for me to believe that your manual does not list...........

Bullseye and Unique as two of the powders for those two cartridges?

Good luck.

Howdy. The manual lists a lot of powders that can be used IF you are using a powder despensor but I am using the Lee dipper scoops. They measure in cc volume and not weight. Therefor I am limited as to the powders that I can use....due to using the dippers. For example:

To use 5.3 grains of Accurate #5 I use the 0.3cc dipper. The charges for Bullseye, Unique, or Universal are listed as N/A for the dippers...as the dippers do not line up with those charges.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

You need to do a little more home work......

Alliant red, green, unique, 2400 and w231, 296 and hodgdon powders are listed on the net.

That .3cc dipper will hold 2.8grs of Bullseye.

Do you have a scale to double check powder weights... ?
stay safe.

The powder dispensing chart for the Lee Auto Disc dispensers should give you some options as they, like the dippers, are in cc’s.

Here is the latest one online.

https://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/in...D_AD_Chart.pdf

I don’t know how old your dipper guide is but this lists .30cc’s of AA #5 at only 4.8 Gns.

For less than $50 you could invest in the Lee Auto Drum powder measure which gives infinite settings, or for even less get the Perfect Powder Measure which, with an adaptor, can go on top of your charge die if you choose not to use a stand.

I believe that the reason the dipper guide marks powders as unsuitable is due to the very light charges that the dippers can not deliver.

While a whole lot slower than the drum dispenser and requiring very close attention, the Perfect measure is great for those very small charges. I use mine for .38 S&W and .32 Auto (both less than 2.5 gns of powder) as well as rifle charges.

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View from down under

For less than $50 I'll sell You a powder measure and a scale. Then You can quit the dip.

Let me explain a bit more on the what and why. As some of you know, I am legally blind. I use the Lee dipper system and the Lee data to take my eyes out of the reloading and make it safer and easier on je. Yes, I have a Lee safety scale but it is difficult to read. I can use my $850 digital magnifier as needed. I realize that limiting myself to the Lee dippers does limit my powder choices butI am ok with that for my purpose of plinking. I have taken my Lee scale and Accurate #5 with the correct dipper and I get 5.3 grains every single time. No matter what you do with the dipper the charge can not exceed 5.4 grains even if you heap it. Accurate #5 is out of stock and I am low on piwder. I am looking for piwders that I can use with my dippers.....that is a safe charge, no scale, just scoop and go. I have contacted Lee and they confirm as does the book....if you use the dippers and the Lee data...no scale is needed because the work has already been done. What I want to know is this.....has the Lee data been updated since my copy of the book? Do I just stick with AA#5 and wait for it to be back in stock or try Blue Dot which will work with the Lee dippers and their data. Lee data says I need 3.5 grains of Bullseye for 38 special 158 grain. No Lee dipper will yield 3.5 grains of Bullseye. See my problem? Again the Lee dippers allow me to be consistant every charge and eliminates any mistake I might make with a piwder throwing device such as it not feeding correctly because of something I did not see. Thanks again for the help.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

You didn't ask for this advice so please ignore it completely if it offends you on any level.

Been loading for three decades-plus and it still blows my mind that I didn't truly understand the nuances of powder and powder selection until a good 10 years in to my learning curve.

Fact: Powder, priced even badly, should cost you no more than $30 for a pound out the door, and just that one pound of powder at it's absolute heaviest charge weight in .357 Magnum will be enough to roll eight full boxes of ammo. And the different powder for .38 Special will roll you more than 25 boxes of ammo.

More important FACT: Using a great .38 Special powder in .357 Magnum loads will make .357 Magnum loads that not only do NOT perform up to the potential of true .357 Magnum, they will not sound nor feel like true .357 Magnum and here's the unhappy special bonus -- they will do so with all the pressure and ugly peak pressure as a proper .357 Magnum round, with a pressure curve that is far more spiky and dangerous than a proper .357 Magnum round made with a proper, slower burning powder.

Summary: if you are being dropped off on a deserted island for a decade and you have to choose between multiple powders or food and drink then sure, load .357 Magnum with a .38 Special powder or attempt to pick a middle road powder. But if you can afford $30 for a single pound, buy a proper powder for .357 Magnum and make proper loads.

You will make better ammo and you will in fact make safer ammo.

To reiterate, these characteristics of powder and powder selection are the antithesis of obvious. I had been making my own ammo successfully for a 10 years before I learned the nuances of powder and powder selection.

.357 Magnum ammo made with Titegroup, AA#2, Bullseye or Ramshot Zip will never again ever come from my load bench or be chambered in any of my guns, because I know better.

.357 Magnum ammo made with H-110, AA#9, Power Pro 300-MP or others is better, safer, more genuine .357 Mag ammo than anything that anyone could possibly craft with Titegroup or Bullseye or the like.

Groo here
If you don't have one , get the Lee dipper set. there are 12 or more
dipper AND a chart that tells you how much of a given powder EACH
dipper will throw...
As you found , a dipper will not throw OVER the amount listed
Lee safe factor.
Then look in your manuals for load ranges.
I use dippers most all the time and pick a dipper in the middle to upper
[but not over] range [ knowing the Lee safe factor]
Not for max loads , not for min loads, but for middle loads [like we mostly load] works fine.
For powder , I have used mostly Bullseye ,Unique, and a powder in the 2400 burn range.
If you need just one , Unique...............................................................................
PS don't worry about the load differences using a flake powder [Unique]
as long as you use the same dippding styled each time the groups will be fine...

I echo this and you could use colored tape on the handles or a large marker to distinguish them for you vision problems.

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Front sight and squeeze

For .38 Special Alliant gives a 3.5 gn charge under a 158 gn LSWC bullet.

The Lee .34 dipper gives 3.2 gns and the .37 dipper gives .35 gn exactly.

In 357 Magnum the Alliant charge is 4.8 gn with the same bullet. The Lee .49 dipper will give a 4.6 gn charge.

Hope that helps you.

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View from down under

Thank you all for the help. I do have the complete Lee dipper set in the factory box. I have the slide card as well. I understand that I am limiting myself by using the dippers. I am going to stay safe and that is why I want to stick with what Lee has printed in their book. I am also pretty new to reloading so when the Lee data says that a certain powder is N/A for use with a given charge or dipper, I simply avoid the powder. The dippers work great for me because it takes a lt of eyesight out of the powder charge. Sure it is slower but I am fine with that. I enjoy using my Lee hand press as well.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

I can help you with dippers...I use them a lot and the hand press .
Here are loads I use that work nicely :

38 Special , 158 gr. LSWC , .3cc dipper = 2.8 grs. Bullseye.
Nice pleasant target / plinking load .
Can also use the 148 gr. lead wadcutter bullet for a classic target load .

38 Special , 158 gr. LSWC , .5cc dipper = 5.0 grs. Unique .
Standard velocity 38 spcl load not quite +P but close .

357 Magnum , 158 gr. SWC GC (gas check) , .5cc dipper =
7.7 grains Accurate Arms No. 5 . This load develops about 1,000 fps
and is my standard 357 mag. general purpose load .

I like to use dippers because of the safety aspect . Dip a charge , pour into case , seat bullet ...not a lot to go wrong .
Also can be a very precise way to measure powder...once you learn how to do it.
Slow...maybe , but I don't see any speed reloading trophies handed out to the fastest reloader . Slow = Safe is the way I look at it .
The problem with dippers is they hamstring you with powder selection. You just about have to use two or three powders .
Just no getting around it . Plus Lee has two dippers suitable for handgun .3cc and .5cc ...thats it ! I make a lot of dippers to cover the inbetween sizes ... you have to for handguns .

All of the powder weights listed above for a dipper have been verified by myself based on my dipping method , you might want to double check the weights against your method . There might be some slight differences , none of my loads are maximum .

Load Safe,
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

i started out dipping my powder , have never quit . The Lee .5cc scoop throws 4.7 grs of Bullseye powder according to Lee data . Alliant lists 4.8 grs max in a 357 magnum case using a 158 gr bullet for a velocity of about 900+ fps , depending on barrel length , your gun etc . On my scales , I get 4.6grs . For just punching paper , that is a good load , very accurate . That .3cc scoop using bullseye with a 148gr full wadcutter bullet is 2.8grs of Bullseye powder which is the perfect load using that bullet . I have used that load many many times . So you see , Bullseye powder will work for both 38spl and 357 mag giving great target loads using the LEE dippers . I hope this helps , Regards, Paul

I find the Lee dippers have too big a gap between measures for pistol reloading. I have written Lee trying to get them to make a set just for pistol that has a bit more range between the current sizes. To no avail.

Fortunately, it is really pretty simple to make your own to throw anything you want. I found a .38 case full of Trail Boss is perfect for the .41 Magnum. Didn't even have to cut down the case that time.

Finally, someone who understands what I am doing and working with here. I would like to buy you a soda. LOL Thank you for the help. I am restricting myself to a few powder choices and I am ok withthat. I am happy to use AA#5 but it is out of stock at Midway.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

Load with whatever powders you have/can get . Western Powders (Accurate Arms) may be out of stock at Midway but it will not be for long. They are pretty good with production & distribution .
I discovered them during the great powder shortage (2013 / 2015) couldn't find my usual Bullseye or Unique anywhere .
Local dealer had received a huge shipment of Accurate/ Western Powders and there was nothing else on the shelves ... So , I tried
AA #2 and AA #5 , liked them both . They dip very consistently...a little better than Bullseye and Unique.
Glad to be of help ,
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Gentlemen...

DO NOT TRUST THE VMD DATA, DIPPING CHART, ETC.

The published information is a rough guide, that may or may not be up-to-date. I've gotten individual pounds of powder that were off by 25-35%, in both directions.

Verify charges with a scale, whether you're using a dispenser or dippers, at the start of every reloading session. And make doubly-sure to do so when opening a new jar of powder.

Literally any time someone says, "I can not have an accident because my equipment will not allow it", I can assure you, they are wrong.

Long time dipper user here. What you need are more dippers. You can buy them from Lee for about a buck apiece. Get a few extras for the recommended size and then get some for the next size larger. Use the larger size and then cut out small circles of cardboard or whatever you have. Using your scale, just keep jamming more pieces of cardboard in the dipper (reducing its volume) until you get it to give you the weight you want for that particular powder. Once you get them fine tuned then label the dipper for whatever powder you used. Obviously use the same technique for the recommended dipper if it is giving you too much weight for a certain powder.
For an example, my two favorite powders for 9mm are #5 and Autocomp. Using the described method I found that I could use the same dipper for both. 5.6 grains of Autocomp took up the same volume of 6.4 of #5.

Interesting idea. I did not think of that. I own the complete Lee dipper set with 15 dippers in it. Thanks for the help and helping me learn.

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

There is something seriously wrong if you are seeing a 25 to 35% variation in weights between different lots of the same powder. Unique (for example) has been made for over a century and has never been more than a couple percentage points off, which is well within tolerance and safety margins.

Have you verified your scale? Are you measuring the actual powder you are intending (not something else by mistake)???

I used dippers for a LONG time with many different powders. Plus made my own.


There are many powders that will work for 38 special and mild 357. I used HP38/W231 for some time. Still do.


I or anyone can give the OP the correct dipper for XYZ powder, BUT BUT


Every lot of powder varies, so my powder in my humidity may or may not be the same as someplace else.


The Lee Chart is pretty accurate for SOME powders but is WAY off for others, I made my own chart of specific weights of powders and what dipper to use or what hole in the disc to use.



The LEE scale is not worth the plastic it is made off and I am a Lee fan boy.


Perhaps the OP can get s decent scale and have someone else read it for him??


Loading without a scale is a crapshoot to me.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I have to add to the above post. My recommendation is to use medium slow powders and not real fast burning ones, The slower powders will fill the case better and you are less likely to get into trouble of overcharging.
So even though Bullseye is great for 38 special I would advise using HP 38, Unique are something like those.
If you get powders that I have I would be glad to give you the dipper data or as close as possible


For the 38 special I have HP 38, Unique, Auto Comp I have other for magnum loads or faster powders but I think you should not use those.


I have Trail Boss which is a fast powder but really fills the case so it's hard to blow one up!


Set your sights on pistol reloading data | Hodgdon Reloading

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Still Running Against the Wind

Like Nevada Ed said, the .3 scoop gives you 2.8 of Bullseye, a very common middle-of-the-road loading for 38 special. However, the .3 scoop does not come with the Lee Loader 38 Special set. Who knows why!

I've made a few dippers - for a tiny one, I took a 22 Short case and drilled a small hole thru on the bottom, poked in a heavy piece of copper house wire, and then half-filled the case with solder. I checked what it was dipping on my scale, and then drilled with a bit that fit the case mouth from the top to take out some solder. Kept doing that until I had the load I wanted.

I use both the Lee Perfect powder measure as well as dippers. I check each with a Lee safety scale. I use a lot of Trail Boss and Universal. I've personally found that for 38 spcl / 158gr LSWC, a dipper works out well with TB. Check the dip against a scale. I use a dipper not listed in the book, but one that drops inside their listed powder charge safely.

For 44 mag, (light loads) I like the dipper with Universal. That being said. If I am loading Universal in 38, I like the Lee Perfect Powder measure.

I love dippers, bit for handgun loads, they are extremely limiting, and will give you functional loads following Lee's instructions, but not often the best loads. The above loads I mentioned with dippers, I like pretty well.

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Hillbilly

The best way to use dippers is in conjunction with a scale. I started with a Lee Loader, using a dipper for Bullseye and made a bunch of safe loads, but I'm sure they varied quite bit (I even had a squib in 1970). Using a scale I perfected my dipping method and I found I could vary the dipped charge by nearly a full grain (push the dipper backwards, push forwards, strike with a straight edge, wiggle the dipper to even charge, push through mouth first, mouth first twice, all gave different charges). After much practice, and when I was on a roll, I could hold +/- .1 grain of W231. I kept my own "dipping log" of which dipper consistently gave which charge of which powder.

I have used a lot Unique and in the last 8-10 years Universal for both 38 Special and 357 Magnum. A lot of reloaders will claim Unique burns "dirty" and to some extent yes it will at lighter, lower pressure charges as most pistol powders.


FWIW; if you want to continue reloading I would highly suggest a minimum of one better manual than the Lee. Lyman 50th is an excellent choice. If you shoot cast bullets, a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is often considered the "Lead Bullet Bible". If you choose jacketed bullets, get a manual published by the bullet manufacturer (Hornady bullets, Hornady manual. Speer bullets, Speer manual,etc.).

Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun...

Variance from listed VMD. Hell, I have a pound of Accurate #2 that's nearly half the density listed on a Lee VMD chart I have. In other words, blindly dropping .Xcc's of powder would have resulted in a half-charge.

And yes, I double-checked

Typical lot-to-lot variation isn't supposed to be greater than 18%, both for burn rate and density, but it's not the lot-to-lot variation you care about. It's the difference between the powder you're actually dealing with, and the chart you're working from.

"The LEE scale is not worth the plastic it is made off and I am a Lee fan boy."

I agree with that, and I'm a Lee fan boy too. Unless they've changed it, it's kinda dangerous, the one I had was. Complicated, and I feel Lee adapted it from some other source not related to powder.

I had a Lee Perfect Measure, it leaked powder.

I've never dipped powder, but have a bunch of dippers I got with die sets.

I gotta reply to these posts. Actually the Lee Safety Scale is safer than most other beam scales. The Lee has a locking function where once the weight is adjusted, and locked, the weight adjustment will not change until the function is disabled. Some folks cannot/will not learn how to read a vernier scale. "Complicated"? No, it's not digital, but easily read, accurate, and lockable. The "plastic" referred to isn't the plastic Japanese toys were made of in the '50s, but a modern synthetic material, and for this application, better than most beam materials (anybody remember all the condemnation of Mr. Ruger's modern use of modern materials; injection casting? Or all the complaints about GM's use of fiberglass auto bodies?). You can drop a Lee scale from 6' onto a hard surface and still be able to weigh .1 grain, repeatedly.

I'm a lifelong machinist/mechanic and found most of the complaints I see about Lee tools and equipment are from ignorance. Not knowing how to use a tool as it's designed, and unable to learn tried and true practices. Instructions need to be read and understood. Because one is a reloader and "uses" reloading tools does not mean they are informed tool users. I have a multi colored bench, tools and equipment from most manufacturers, (current and defunct), and have made a living with tools for at least 50 years. I just don't care for any one specific tool manufacturer getting a bad rap because the user is unable to make the tool perform as it is designed...

Say what you will, the Lee scale may indeed be accurate but it is a PITA to use and not worth the $30 it costs. I have all LEE equipment for years. Has nothing to do with the "user"
You like it fine, use it.


I have a Dillon!

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Still Running Against the Wind

Accurate? Yes, I suppose so. I'm not a machinist (like most people in the world) so I'm forced to use other scales, which are a lot less complicated, like a Lyman balance beam. If you Google Lee powder scales, you'll see a lot of negative comments. Lots of which are quite vehement.

A common complaint is it's nearly impossible to zero. I can't remember what one I used,or if I found it difficult to zero, but I didn't like it. IIRC, it required a chart to interpret it. Is it possible the scale (or the one I had) measured in cc, and had to be converted to grains.

Looks like the newer ones are a lot simpler.

Hello again folks. Not sure how we got from my question to Lee bashing and then to the Lee scale LOL but anywho. The Lee scale is what I have. Here is a video on how to zero it and use it. The scale is very sensitive. I had a fan running and it would not zero. Turned the fan off and it did zero. Is it a little picky to set up? Yes, a little bit. Is it accurate? Yep, I weighed a post it note. Then wrote my name in pencil on the post it note. The scale noticed.

YouTube

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Livin’ Life From The Blindside

My personal favorite is, "Durrhurrdurr! They used a cheap plastic nut in mah Lee Turret! Cheap company grumble-grumble whiffle-whaffle...I replaced it with a metal one for a nickel!"

Hey genius--ever hear of this thing called a "sacrificial part"? May as well go ahead and order a new turret indexing rod to go with your 5-cent 'improvement'. And maybe order a couple of those nylon sacrificial nuts, they're like a quarter each.

There's a huge difference between " faulty manufacturing " and " user error " . I have used a LEE powder scale for yrs so I can honestly say that I put the complaints about it on " user error " . Regards, Paul

^^^LOL!!! I think most of it is nothing more than an inability to follow the instructions.

Unfortunately there are people in this world that don't know how to properly use a hammer and it doesn't take a 6 year apprenticeship and 30 years of experience to use one and it's the same with any tools, including reloading tools (ever see a youtube video where Bubba is beating on an engine part or Lee Loader with a claw hammer?). In real life a vernier scale is easy to read, all ya gotta do is line up a couple marks on a slide, but there are many that look at one and they nearly faint. No need for a Phd in physics to read or learn to read one. Negative comments? I could whine/complain about dental surgery, but because I know nothing about it, my "complaints" are worthless, like a lot of "internet wisdom/complaints". Use of Lee Scales is simple and straight forward; move a steel ball and adjust a slide, positive adjustment that won't change if the pan is removed too quickly or the bench is bumped. I've never had a problem with the brass "zeroing" nut/screw on the Lee scales I'v tried. I don't think there has been a change in design, at least the ones I own, maybe 30 years old, and it stays usable and accurate.

Again I'm not selling Lee, badmouthing user's failures, just don't care for general, unnecessary product bashing. New reloaders often look in to reloading forums and can get a skewed, inaccurate "review" of some good, entry level tools, and this I object to. Many reloading tools users seem to get emotionally wrapped up in their choice of tools and vigorously defend their choice and try to destroy the products they do not use...

If your problem is that you can't find AA #5 powder, Midway, Graf's, and Powder Valley all have it in stock and ready to ship in both 1 lb and 8 lb containers. Powder Valley even has a "half-off Hazmat" deal going. If you can use it, the 8 pounder saves a lot of money and amortizes the Hazmat fee over a lot of powder. At 4.7 grains per dip, that would give you about 11,914 dips.

Then please do tell us why there is a need to have a Dillon Love-fest every day. week or month.??

How about Ford or Chevy?

Out of all the scales available the Lee scale is at the bottom regardless. and this is from a long time Lee product user that has a degree in Brain Surgery for Rocket scientists!

I used the Lee scale and don't like it, is that OK?

How about the Lee FCD? I use them and like them, how much bashing has there been on those?
To each their own. OK?
If the OP is visually impaired then the Lee scale is a poor choice.

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Still Running Against the Wind

And I would order it in an 8 pound container and solve the problem for a long time!
Ed

And if the OP is "visually impaired" to the extent of not being able to see a vernier scale, he should be using factory ammo, not reloading, as there are many other potential problems that can/should be seen.

No there is no need for a "love fest" for any product. I don't own any Dillon products (and I can't see how a "Dillon Love Fest" as anything to do with this thread) and posting about how much one likes their choice has nothing to do with the bashing that goes on for other products. Yes the Lee scale is an "entry level" scale. Meaning it is less expensive, but it is no less accurate, harder to use or less safe than any scale. Because it is less expensive, the "experts" go to great lengths to badmouth the product ("it ain't as expensive so it can't be any good" kinda BS). I guess one can argue about the use of modern materials and modern manufacturing methods, but that too is open to much criticism; some are accused of "old school", "dinosaur reloader", "Model T vs Ford explorer" kind of accusations.

If you read my posts you will see my intention is to give a product an even shake. Most of the Lee Bashing isn't "I don't like it" as much as it is a derogatory rant.

I have had two Lee scales and yes they may be a bit slower to "settle" than some $$$$ magnetic dampened scales, but it is certainly no less accurate, nor any less safe than any reloading scale on the market. I have 3 scales I use regularly, an RCBS 505, a Lyman/Ohaus D5 and my Lee SS. The Lee is no less accurate than either of the other two. As in most tool misuse, the problem isn't with the tool itself, but the nut behind the handle.

My main complaint is many new reloaders look in on reloading forums to get an idea of the equipment and Lee Bashing just does the new guy a major disservice. Just look at how new reloaders are lead to believe a tumbler with "reloading media" and all the necessary tools to get pristine shiny brass is absolutely necessary to get decent, safe reloads.

Personally I don't care what tools equipment anyone uses, but I don't care for the "tool snobs" tying to destroy a perfectly good product which often is unnecessary and gives the less informed a skewed/biased view.

No need to reply as I'm done. There's no intelligent conversation possible with a Lee Hater. Reminds me of the old saw; "Arguing with a an old reloader is much like wrestling with a pig..."

Lets relax people. We can get our point across without being upset. If a thread bothers you stay out of it.

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Freedom is never free!!
SWCA #3437

All of my dies (.38S, .38SC, .32HR, 9mm, and .380) are Lee - as is my one press - which is a single-stage. I have had zero problems and have zero complaints about Lee equipment. For powder, I use the RCBS Lil Dandy and regularly load .38SP with mostly Power Pistol but I also use Universal. Although the upfront cost for the Lil Dandy is a lot more than the Lee dippers - I have absolute faith in them and load rounds a few times each month. One caveat, as I think was mentioned above, both the Lee dippers and Lil Dandy rely on the accuracy of the published powder VMD data. I always, always, always reload on the low side of any of the published data and I still have all of my fingers intact + all loads are test fired in a metal-framed handgun before using them in a Glock or Airweight S&W.

Buy a $30 Harbor Freight digital scale. Or a $20 Lee Balance scale. Check what your scoops are actually throwing with any powder. I only use the Lee guide that comes with the scoops to get close to how much powder I want to throw and use the scale to verify.

If you want even better accuracy, use the scoops to throw the charge right onto the scale, if they check out, pour 'em in the case.

I go one step further. I throw a slightly reduced charge with the scoop, then trickle the charge to what I want.

My final form is to put the case on the scale and tare it. Scoop and fill the case and put it back on the scale. Less handling that way and measures every throw. Good for when you are going for near max loads.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I use Lee dippers and Unique for both 38 Special and 357 Magnum loads.

The spreadsheets for the Lee dippers are notorious for being inaccurate, usually erring on the light (safe) side. IIRC powder is actually allowed a fairly large difference in density from one batch to another.

You really need a scale. It's the only way to be sure.

I have a powder thrower, scale and Lee dip set. Depending on the amount of ammo you want to load, and the load weight in question. Sometimes its easier to use the dips instead of setting up a charge weight in the thrower.
When I had nothing but Lee hand dies and a 12ga Load All for 38, 45acp and 12 ga, Unique powder was all I needed.

Unique = good stuff.