I went and bought a couple of boxes of 250 grain FTX bullets to make some 45 Colt and 454 Casull's for my 460V. Every thing I have is made for deep penetration and the FTX's supposedly dump all there energy in a soft target pretty quickly compared to the XTP's and flat nose I have. Well don't you know, bullets for 450 Bushmaster don't require a cannelure, that's what the 250 grain FTX's are rated for (.452). I ordered a tool from Buffalo Arms a couple of day ago and can expect it at the end of the week. I guess a trip to the range next week will be needed to test rounds next week, O the pain of it all.
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Getting a tool to make cannelure.
- Thread starter Oldfrt
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Funflyer
Member
I know how you feel. I had to add a cannelure to some Speer 50AE bullets to use in my 500 Mag recently. They work great. I got this one from a friend some time ago. It had been through a fire and was pretty much toast but with some TLC and a complete restoration I have it working like new.
Attachments
Good luck with the new tool but.............
a bullet might not need a "Can" on it to work or get enough fps out of a weapon to drop game.
"Red tip" or plain old JHP, it comes down to tight groups, bullet placement and how your weapon shoots the bullet in the load.
Good luck .
a bullet might not need a "Can" on it to work or get enough fps out of a weapon to drop game.
"Red tip" or plain old JHP, it comes down to tight groups, bullet placement and how your weapon shoots the bullet in the load.
Good luck .
J. R. WEEMS
Member
CAN TOOLS
Picked up this CH tool some time back-- does what it is supposed to do. Just dont turn the grand the wrong way. I will cause it to come unscrew. Put some clear nail polish in the threads from the fly tying bench-- no more problem.
Picked up this CH tool some time back-- does what it is supposed to do. Just dont turn the grand the wrong way. I will cause it to come unscrew. Put some clear nail polish in the threads from the fly tying bench-- no more problem.
Boy you are right about the handle coming off. I recently got 2 of the CH cannelure tools. One was given to me sans the knob and the other I bought at a recent gun show for 5 bucks. I was surprised that no one knew what the tool was for. They had another cannelure tool also but somewhat different. After I told another fellow what it did he bought the other one. I have a few hundred home swaged 44 bullets I need to put a cannelure on. Got to get a knob for the other onePicked up this CH tool some time back-- does what it is supposed to do. Just dont turn the grand the wrong way. I will cause it to come unscrew. Put some clear nail polish in the threads from the fly tying bench-- no more problem.
Nemo288
Member
Here is the site for the CH4D cannelure tool.
It's not cheap.
Cannelure Tool
Buffalo Arms sells the CH a little cheaper.
Bullet Cannelure Tool - Buffalo Arms
Corbin also makes one.
It's even more expensive.
Hand Cannelure Tool
It's not cheap.
Cannelure Tool
Buffalo Arms sells the CH a little cheaper.
Bullet Cannelure Tool - Buffalo Arms
Corbin also makes one.
It's even more expensive.
Hand Cannelure Tool
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Sometimes the cannelure is to keep recoil from sitting back bullets in case. Other times for use in tube magazines. I don’t crimp anything I don’t have to but I was recently going to buy the tool to do some Barnes 410 gr .458” and Speer 235gr .375”.
Nemo288
Member
Yeah ^^.
Plated bullets (with no cannelure) I'll taper crimp slightly for revolvers and lever/break action rifles.
Not enough to break the plating.
Have not had a bullet move that I know about.
But solid copper/brass bullets and some H frames are tough to crimp to if no cannelure or its in the wrong place.
I could see having one of these machines if I was serious about using solids.
Plated bullets (with no cannelure) I'll taper crimp slightly for revolvers and lever/break action rifles.
Not enough to break the plating.
Have not had a bullet move that I know about.
But solid copper/brass bullets and some H frames are tough to crimp to if no cannelure or its in the wrong place.
I could see having one of these machines if I was serious about using solids.
Heavy recoiling hand guns like the 460 S&W magnum require a good crimp. I'd prefer a hefty roll or Profile Crimp. Not for performance/accuracy, but so I could fire a cylinder full without any bullets moving north and binding up the cylinder...
I found that I need a heavy crimp on the 454's and 460's, the 460 dies I have do a good crimp, but I had to get a profile crimp die for both sets of 45's (one is set up for the 454's the other for 45's). I prefer a cannelure on anything I put in my 460, even the 45's, just in case I load a mixture and the little stuff is after the big ones. I am also making the loads with the FTX for carry rounds and not range, the last thing I want is for a bullet to jump crimp in a outside a range situation.
I got the tool a couple of days ago and put a cannelure on a box of 250 grain FTX's, was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Put 10 rounds together 5 45 colts and 5 454 casulls, visited the range this morning, to test them out. I got a very small amount of crimp jump on one of the 45's after shooting 4 460's with 300 grain XTP magnum with max charge of H110 in my 460V. Every thing shot straight and no signs of tumbling even out to 25 yds. Now I sit here cleaning the brass and getting ready to reload all those cases I emptied today plus some of the new brass I got from Powder Valley about a week ago.
J. R. WEEMS
Member
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I got a Corbin tool several years ago for $10, never used it once on a bullet, I did put cannelures on 45-70 cases for the same reason!
Ivan
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You can also do a regular roll crimp then add a taper crimp.
Funflyer
Member
Where may I ask did you get the little plastic ball??
Picked it up at a hardware store. They come in several different sizes.
That tool is a classic made by C&H I believe. I think Dillon offers one but I could be wrong.
I retract the Dillon comment its a tool made by Corbin.
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gwpercle
Member
Nice tool to have around . So many smooth sided bullets , intended for semi-auto pistols , can be purchased somewhat economically , a cannelure rolled on and Ta - Dah revolver bullets with a place to roll a crimp into .
I've gotten away with 125 gr. Truncated Cone 9mm bullets loaded with a taper crimp in 357 Magnum w/ a modest (mid-range) charge AA #5 but anything heavier , bullet or load , might not hold and need a place to put a proper roll crimp .
Going to keep my eyes open for an affordable one ...good thread .
Gary
I've gotten away with 125 gr. Truncated Cone 9mm bullets loaded with a taper crimp in 357 Magnum w/ a modest (mid-range) charge AA #5 but anything heavier , bullet or load , might not hold and need a place to put a proper roll crimp .
Going to keep my eyes open for an affordable one ...good thread .
Gary
Funflyer
Member
Yep, Speer 50AE bullets cost me $19.99 and Hornady are double that price, or more. Wouldn't take too long for a tool to pay for itself.
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