How clean should the inside of a brass case look after tumbling?

I just tumbled my first batch of 38 Special and 9mm brass for 2.5 hours, but the inside of the brass cases still look grey. The outsides look clean, however!

For the record, I was using a Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler with Lyman walnut media. I did get this media second-hand, but an experienced reloaded did tell me the media looked clean.

Perhaps I should do another tumbling session with a few dryer sheets in the mix? Perhaps just throw out the current media and buy some new media?

Dry tumbling will never clean the inside of the cases. Wet tumbling with stainless steel pins will.

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I don’t worry too much about the inside of the case as long as the media is out of it. I get amused by some handloaders concern about extreme cleanliness of brass . When I started reloading about 45 years ago I just would wipe the cases off to clean them.they shot fine. Later on when loading high volume for USPSA shooting, I would tumble them a few hours, separate them from the media and load them. Never have had them well polished on the inside.

Dogdoc

I have my Covid meds, cold beer, and hot buttered popcorn; let the "Surgically Clean Brass Show" begin!

EDIT: I have found an easy way to remove case lube from resized brass. I use ground walnut shells, WalMart Lizard bedding, in my Dillon and Thumbler tumblers. When I remove case lube, dump in the brass, add 2 cups of ceramic triangle shaped tumbling media 1/2" x 1/4" thick, run for 1 minute to fill the inside of the cases, add 1/8 cup of liquid cleanser. Do not use an old dryer sheet to collect the dust when removing case lube.e.

Liquid cleanser: anything with detergent or cleaning agent that is water based, RCBS case lube is water soluble. I received a dozen cans of cleaner from a friend when he moved, all automotive products. I dumped whitewall tire cleaner, leather & vinyl cleaner, fabric cleaner, anything with a surfactant and water based. The result after an hour of tumbling at max fill is fresh clean brass, no lube residue, ready to prime and load.

Don't use petroleum solvent based cleaners (tar remover), it makes a gummy mess on the brass the requires hand wiping to remove the black goo.

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S&WHF 366

No real need or benefit in cleaning the inside of the cases until they're spotless. The only reason for tumbling brass is to get the outside clean.

I use the same tumbler with Petco Lizard Liter (reptile bedding), 1/2 - 3/4 cap of NuFinish, and 1 used dryer sheet, cut in half. Run at least 30 min before adding brass to disperse the polush. I run it 3.5 - 4 hours. Some brass have clean-ish interiors, and some are not. Bullseye soot doesn't come clean, but Tightgroup leaves some interiors clean-ish.

I'm all for cleaning to where it is "good enough". I've repeatedly read that bright and shiny is hard to come by with dry media, and I'm not too concerned about shiny, due to my decision to forego the polish. I just want to make sure I will not be gunking up my dies when I size and decap.

Didn't see your post before writing my most recent. Do you think the polish helps in the cleaning process itself?

As long as the flash hole is clean........, of course. My main inspection after tumbling, that and for splits at the neck. Burning powder leaves,........ burnt looking brass.

Why do YOU clean brass? To protect your dies from damage or to make purty boolits with bright shiny brass that will [hopefully] be easier to find? I’ve shot with guys that had filthy brass and others that looked like new. Either one will shoot just as well everything else being equal. The only thing that is bad would be another piece of smaller brass stuck in a slightly larger cartridge. The interior doesn’t matter.

Been tumbling with corn cob media since 1973. Outside clean is good, inside really does not matter as long as no media is stuck inside.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

My main concern is proper functioning in my guns and not gunking up and/or damaging my dies. So, it seems I should not be concerned that the inside of my cases look grey (as long as nothing is in the flash hole).

Tumbling just gets the dust, dirt, and powder smudges off of the cases
to where they are "OK" to lube and start your reloading cycles.

You need "Wet" to get new looking cases.......

I "Dry clean" my cases and it has worked out for me with a low cost system.

I'm cheap also..........
never used any polish or "conditioners" to my pampered cases.....
and never saw any dandruff.

I use polish with media because it seems to ease belling and crimping. Another benefit of shiny brass is that my fingers are not as dirty when loading my handguns. I used RCBS corn cob for 20+ years and picked stuck media out of thousings of flash holes before I discovered lizard liter. I think I had 1 kernel stuck in a flash hole out of 10,000+ pieces tumbled.

P.S.: I also do not look at reloading as a chore. I enjoy it.

It seems the consensus is that the insides of the brass are not of concern, as long as the flash holes are clear before decapping. I'll look into polish as I continue my journey. Thank you all!

Before resizing I tumble my brass for 4 hours in walnut media in a dillon tumbler.Then i run a neck brush all the way into my brass to make sure that there is no media or anything else still in the case. I bought a bunch of once fired military 5.56 brass and I was surprised at what came out of the brass cases besides the media. Now I always use a neck brush before resizing. Just my $ .02

Two points. Just to clarify, you only use used dryer sheets, not new and one sheet torn in quarters will be enough. Other point, I read that Nufinish is no longer made but other similar products are okay.

Been reloading since mid 70’s when tumble rolling polishing brass was it. Changed to vibratory one in 80’s? , developed my own mix of media using corn cob, walnut and rice. Add liquid polishing additive, my brass get vibrated over night and looks new in the AM. Always Inspect each piece when putting in case loading blocks/ trays and clean primer pockets. Cracked/ split cases are Easy to spot and twist brass with finger nail in opening to double check for splits.

I have used corn cob and walnut and like the corn cob the best. I only tumble a couple hours usually. I only use a dryer sheet to control dust. So it may not be very often. I put a few drops of polish in a new batch of corn cobs and then no more. They seem to get cleaner quicker with it. Use a good dryer sheet and not the wally sheets. I bought some of those to use on the loading stuff. It barely picked up some dust. I put in a Snuggles sheet and it came out like a blanket. I also found they clean better and faster if you load up the tumbler with cases and not do a small batch. I guess they bounce off each other and help clean. When the media gets dirty swap it out with new. It does a better job with clean media and corn cobs are pretty cheap. Don't worry about flash holes with corn cobs. The decapper will poke it out when you size them. I don't need show room clean on mine. I just want them to look decent and protect my dies.

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Ron
Southern IL

Since the outside is clean, you don't need to worry about the inside .

One benefit I have noticed is that it’s easier to see a charge in a case, particularly on the tall skinny ones like .327FM.

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

I've gone all over the map with case cleaning. Early on, I used laundry soap in a wet process, then went to tumbling with corncobs, walnut shells. I dallied with ultrasonic. These days I use stainless pins when I figure a batch of cases needs cleaning. To clean or not to clean depends on what the cases have been in. Cases out of accurate bolt guns get wiped off, necks brushed inside and some brass wool on the outside of the neck. Revolver cases just get re-stuffed. Semi auto cases that hit the dirt get the full stainless pin process. Particularly range brass harvested after a plate match. Ya never know where it's been!

So in a nutshell, it depends. As an example, I like a clean vehicle - inside and out. But if my truck is covered with mud, I'll still drive it. And I'll pick a dirty sports car over a clean econobox.

Fickle beings we humans are . . . .

I think how thoroughly you clean depends on how much brass you clean at a time. I clean 100-200 pieces at a time of each caliber that I shoot.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I used a Lyman 3200 vibratory tumbler for years (still do). Then I got the FA platinum wet tumbler/stainless pins for Christmas several years ago. I LOVE IT! You can't get cleaner, shinier brass; outside, inside and primer pockets. A few years ago, I was curious how the brass would look without using the pins. The outside of the brass was just as clean, but not the inside or primer pockets. I have continued to tumble without the pins and still get a better cleaning than dry tumbling. It's all a matter of how clean YOU want your brass.

I have never given the cosmetic condition of the interior any concern. A shot of compresses air and clear flash hole verification is just a normal step in my reloading process.

If you tumble them long enough to get a shine on the outside then the inside will be clean enough ... they do NOT have to be shiny on the inside ...just clear of any crud ... don't get all anal-ocd about tumbling and getting the inside bright and shiny ... no one sees the inside ..
I use your method , dry media and in terms of the amount of time spent ... it's the best way .
The wet tumbling with dish soap steel pins additives rinses water mess and drying time ... they must all be perfectly dry before loading plus ... unless treated with something ... the shine doesn't last and they get dull in a few days ...
Keep on with dry media ( Midway Treated Nut Shell is best) when the outside is shiny ... load em' ... the inside will be clean enough !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Yup, always love the clean brass threads.

My 45 Colt brass gets wiped with a rag and reloaded.

I didn't read all of these posts but my reason for cleaning brass is to avoid harm to either the brass or the dies when sizing, getting the primer pocket clean and being sure the flash hole is not obstructed. With clean brass, you can examine each piece for neck cracks and web weakness signs. Clean brass can also cycle better through magazines.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

When I first started reloading that is what I did. Then someone gave me a rock tumbler and I used that for many years.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

With the brass clean and shiny on the inside it’s much easier to give them a glance in the reloading block to see that all the powder charges are even. So I see it as a safety feature.

I've not seen so many positive statements about pristine case interiors since wet tumbling became popular. In 40 years of reloading I have never had trouble looking at small charges in tall cases, or even bottle necked cases.

FWIW; I reloaded for 12 years before I got a tumbler. I merely wiped each case with a solvent dampened rag, no ruined dies or scratched chambers (in the "olden days" brown ammo was a sign of a reloader, sorta a "Badge of Honor"). Today I only tumble to a shine two cartridges, 45 ACP and 30-06, easier to find in the dirt. I just leave it in my tumbler or wobbler longer...

If you put the cases in your tumbler with water and barkeepers friend rather than dry media they will be shiny inside and out,but they will hang up a bit in the resizing die because they’re too clean.That can be fixed by drying them then running them in tumbling media for a few minutes
(Too much effort for me,but it works)

I would not worry about it.
Who cares if the inside looks a little gray, it will not affect performance.

Consistent crimps and other details are far more important.

I can also see powder charge levels in brass that has a black interior. However, for those that partake of the process that produces shiny case interiors, maybe there's an inherent need to justify all the rituals.

What can I say? I like clean brass, inside and out. I e only been loading for 8 years and I started with an ultrasonic cleaner. Didn’t do a great job so I went to dry tumbling and car polish. Did a great job but insides and primer pockets not that great. So I switched to wet tumbling. Clean inside and out but now so squeaky clean they get stuck in the dies.

So now I wet tumble with no pins when I get back from the range. Quick lube and then resize and expand after that. The no pin wet tumble gets them clean enough to not dirty the dies.

When I have enough expanded I wet tumble with pins. They come out squeaky clean. After they’re dry a quick dry tumble to polish them up so they don’t stick in the dies.

I take pleasure in the process. I only do this maybe 4 times a year. I like shiny brass. Necessary? Probably not, but it gives me satisfaction.

With the dry method in a vibratory tumbler, some sort of corn cob, or walnut shell, or whatever media, and some sort of "polish" additive, (like Nu Finish car polish), the brass might not be new looking, especially inside. BUT, any loose carbon/soot will be gone from inside, and the case will be slick. If you combine this with carbide dies for your straight walled cartridges, they should size and crimp relatively easily.

If I have absolutely disgusting casings, I have numerous BIG wet tumblers. My partner and I are rock hounds too. Numerous 12# and 15# tumblers. One a triple 15# monster.

I went there also ... just too much wasted time , the drying has to be complete so you can't skimp on that time .
I just find dry tumbling with treated shell media does a good job in a short time ... another thing is no water or sink in my reloading room ... I have to invade and muck up the wife's clean kitchen !
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

Has anyone used ground Hazel Nut shells in their dry tumbler?
Saw them for the 1st time today. Please share if you have. Thanks, Bob

AND when those pesky little SS pins get wedged inside a case you can kiss a decaping pin goodbye! Then look thru every case to find pins stuck inside half the 32 S&W brass I bought on line ending up with 50+ pins!
I'll use corn bob media, w/polish, for awhile longer!
IMHO, jcelect

I'd like one reasonable answer (not "Just 'cause I wanna") for tumbling to a pristine, glossy case interior?

Besides, case tumbling seems to be the most talked about, but least important part of reloading...

Clean brass is easier on your loading dies and more than likely is better for the chambers on our guns. I remember before I learned real proper techniques. I loaded untumbled brass in steel dies and it was hard. Then I learned to lube the brass. When I found carbide dies , I learned about clean unlubed brass being easier to load and it was. To me it just stands to reason that clean brass would be better for our guns too.

Besides the tumbled clean cases look pretty!

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

You covered it in your post. No "reasonable answer", but there's a whole new group of fastidious reloaders / handloaders these days. Many may easily see that they attach an importance to unimportant things, but it's their time, effort, and expense. As such it should be of little regard to the rest of us.

It's just gonna get dirty again....

So is your firearm. But you were taught to clean it after shooting it.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I've been reloading since 1979. I've been wet tumbling with SS pins for 10 years. The 32 years in between, my brass had corrosive stains, Black Powder Sulfur stains, oxidation from WWII ammo, and bugs climb inside of cases and lay eggs!

Clean brass holds a more consistent load. For 1000 yard ammo, that is important, for 10 yard ammo not so much!

I size and/or deprime first then clean. This gets the inside and the primer pocket to like new condition! Primer Pocket consistency is super important in any high precision ammo!

Ivan

Been reloading off and on since 1987. Cleaning brass was always the worst part of the process. Had a Lyman vibratory cleaner and tried all the various techniques : Corn cobb media with and without polish; ground walnut shells treated with polishing rouge; etc. Was never satisfied with the results. Took too long and the brass never seemed to be as clean as I liked.

Recently tried wet cleaning using a Frankford Arsenal tumbler and their pre-packaged cleaning solution. Was amazed with the results. I don't use the pins, but after about an hour and a half the outside of the cases look like new. I rinse thoroughly, spin the remaining water out, and let dry overnight on a piece of old carpet. I don't de-prime first and am not concerned with the inside of the cases. I don't know what is in the pre-packaged cleaning solution, they look like dishwasher detergent packs, but the cases do not tarnish in storage and work smoothly in my dies. This change made my reloading much more enjoyable.

Most of the complaints I read about wet tumbling seem to revolve around issues with the stainless pins. My experience is you don't have to use them to get good results.

I've been SS pin wet tumbling since 2015, got rid of/sold the dry media apparatus in 2017 due to non-use.
Whenever I do a batch of brass I toss in other non-weaponry household stuff. Brass, aluminum, stainless steel hinges, door latch plates, dirty pennies, plumbing small parts, drawer/door handles, disc brake SS parts, decorative fasteners. everything comes out looking brand new.

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So, I am slowly working through cleaning the collection of brass I have accumulated over the last year. Yesterday, I tumbled roughly 150 cases of a mix of 38 Special and 357 Magnum, but placed 4 quarters of a used dryer sheet in the mix this time. I am quite please with the results! The outside of the cases looked a little cleaner than the batch without the dryer sheets, and the insides appeared free of any buildup. I think, for now, I will consider this to be good for my purposes, but I'll reevaluate as time goes on.

Perhaps I will look into more thorough cleaning methods if I get into more precision shooting. Right now, I'm wanting to reload to have ammo to have fun with at the range, so precision accuracy is not on my radar at this time.

I appreciate the comments! I am enjoying learning about the different cleaning methods, and I really appreciate all of the advice!

As a new reloader, you all will probably see future posts from me asking more questions on various topics!

EDIT: I'd like to show off my reloading bench, so I'll probably create a new thread about that in a few days!

May try the dryer sheet thing. Can't hurt.

AJ

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.