Can cases be converted from small to large primer size?

max503

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I realize this would be a niche thing, but can it be done on calibers like the 38/357, for instance? I'm thinking maybe you could drill them out with something like a brad-point bit then finish with a primer pocket reamer.

If you were making wax boolit loads, could you convert cases from small to large primer and thus get more power? I'd rather use up my large primers for these loads than my small primers.
 
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I would be more inclined to see if magnum primers would work better or have more power with wax bullets before I would go to the trouble to try to drill out brass for a different primer size. Can you even get a drill bit that is exactly the size of a large primer cavity? Fit perfection might not be an issue for those wax loads but I would not risk firing powder loads with home modified brass.
 
There is NO good reason to do that. The whole idea is to keep wax loads safe for back yard or basement use. NOT to increase their power. Regular small pistol primers work very well for use with paraffin bullet loads. I have fired thousands of them. The only case alteration needed is to drill the flash holes larger to prevent primer setback. Such cases should not be used for reloading regular ammunition.
 
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There is NO good reason to do that.

Over the years I've collected more LR primers than I'll ever use. I used to shoot a 30-06 regularly. Sold it. Just wondering if there was an easy/fun way to use up the primers.
 
Not worth the time and trouble.
Getting the primer pockets the right depth consistently may be the hardest part.
 
Over the years I've collected more LR primers than I'll ever use. I used to shoot a 30-06 regularly. Sold it. Just wondering if there was an easy/fun way to use up the primers.

You can sell or trade your excess primers for something else you need or want. They are like gold currently, and will continue to be for the foreseeable future.
 
Not worth the time and trouble.
Getting the primer pockets the right depth consistently may be the hardest part.
LR primers are a little thicker than small pistol primers and case primer pockets would need to be deepened in addition to enlarging the primer pocket diameter. It would be a lot of work and you would probably need a special size end mill to do it right.
 
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Brad Point drills are for wood.
Soft plastics like StarBoard.
Delrin, Corian and other plastics are okay, drill slower
but dulls them faster.
They don't like fiberglass, even when laminated with epoxy.

Co-workers on boats ruined lotsa stuff.
Borrow a copper wire cutter to cut wire?
The stainless wire used in air conditioning and engine
room blower ducts.
Won't mention freshly dressed Marples chisels on metal.
Gave them a bill. :D

Best to ruin cases with the proper tools.
7/32" end mill and thin tape or super glue? :eek:

Just read that someone tried it with a lathe
and a .210" chucking reamer, but would use
a .209" if tried again.
 
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Wax loads .... Yeah, you can do it.
An end mill and a pocket swager should do it.
But do understand that the formation of the primer pockets in the manufacturing process is what gives the case head most of its hardness. The rest is rim and a finishing touch with head stamp to achieve a specific bhn.
 
Wax loads .... Yeah, you can do it.
An end mill and a pocket swager should do it.
But do understand that the formation of the primer pockets in the manufacturing process is what gives the case head most of its hardness. The rest is rim and a finishing touch with head stamp to achieve a specific bhn.

That's what I was thinking because I use these in 380/9mm. And you can unscrew the end and chuck it in a drill.
 

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Why do all that work? Carry your large pistol primers to a gun show and trade them for small pistol or rifle primers. When primers went crazy i traded all my CCI spp for CCI lpp brick for brick. I use my srp for 45acp, .38 and .455.
 
Why do all that work? Carry your large pistol primers to a gun show and trade them for small pistol or rifle primers. When primers went crazy i traded all my CCI spp for CCI lpp brick for brick. I use my srp for 45acp, .38 and .455.

Pretty much what I wrote in Post#8. Much easier than attempting to open up the pockets!
 
To do the job Right one would need a good lathe, very good tooling and lots of experience. A CNC would be best. Figure all the costs and best do what AJ posted.
 
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that guy that said enlarge the flash hole for wax bullets might have something there. Maybe try that on one case and see how that works. Of course they best not be mixed up with cases meant for actual loads. I also got large pistol primers but not loading anything that uses them any more. But I suppose I best set on them. After what I had to pay for small pistol primers recently. Pretty spicy but not nearly as bad as they were there for awhile.
 
Part of this hobby is experimentation. I thought if it was easily doable I might try it. I've always been a big fan of the powder-puff/fun loads.

Then there's that thought that I could trade them in for something good....
 
I bought some rubber bullets years ago and you had to enlarge the flash hole to prevent the primers from backing out and locking up the cylinder. I made a bullet trap out of a small square trash can.
 
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Not to get off topic, but I make very light 380 loads to take on hikes and camping/fishing. They are good for plinking and don't make much noise. They don't fling brass into the grass. My Glock 380 is target-accurate with them. I've done the wax loads and the commercial plastic boolit loads in 38.
 
I haven't made wax bullet loads or used the Speer plastic ones in years, but everything worked fine as is when I used to do this. No need to alter cases for primers they weren't intended for; neither a need to enlarge flash holes.
 
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