choosing componenets

Hello, i have questions pertaining to reloading,particularly to choosing powder and bullet combinations appropriate for revolvers, im concerned with top strap and forcing cone erosion,.. how would i know the published data is appropriate for revolvers to mitigate any erosion..please educate me because i cant find really anything on it that would be credible , speer i believe states in a manual that thin jacket bullets may accelerate forcing cone wear due to over orbturation and ive heard hodgdon had a statement for magnum powders excellerating forcing cone wear..please advise..thank you

Flame cutting appeared to be worse in K frame 357 Magnums with ball powders. [H110, WW 296] and 110 -125 gr bullets.

If you are shooting a revolver made in the last 25 years, study several manuals and take some copies with you when you search for available powders and bullets.

Currently availability is more important than what happens to your revolver after 10,000 rounds.

barrel wear in general .....
I went to cast lead virtually everywhere I could apply it.
the coated offerings have mitigated almost all the old fit and leading issues we used to see constantly in this forum.
As for revolver specific loads ... that's almost a trick question.
most are chambered for revolver cartridges with load data to go with them.
while you can find a 9mm revolver and even a 357 mag auto, they are outliers.
yesterday, I was at the range clobbering a steel plate at 100 yards with a 44 magnum from the late 1900's.
My loading for it has always been a blend of utility and accuracy in mind.
I've not worn this thing out in 30 years. Don't let such notions as preservation get in the way of getting what you paid for out of your revolver.
if you intend to hunt with it, you are morally obligated to load appropriately for that mission. If it's just a range mistress ... that's a different mission.
if it's a defensive weapon, the load must fit the mission.

I have been handloading for revolvers for 50+ years. I have always selected my powder by this method from the loading books or other known and knowledgeable sources. It takes some time to work through but "I" believe you get a very workable and accurate load with the least amount of stress on the gun and yourself as follows:


First select a bullet weight. I believe we are all in agreement that light for caliber jacketed bullets at maximum velocity cause the most erosion and flame cutting regardless the powder. That choice is up to you and your needs as to the revolvers use.
Once the bullet weight is selected go to your load data and divide the velocity by the charge weights IE. FPS/Weight in Grains. This provides an "efficiency index". The powder with the highest index is the most efficient in terms of velocity produced per unit of powder weight.
The most efficient may not be the fastest but it, and any close to it, will be the best with a high accuracy potential and burn the least amount of that particular powder. This means less heat which translates to less erosion and flame cutting, least amount of recoil to achieve a decent load and more cost effective if that is even a consideration.
This process really makes cast bullets shine and cast bullets, IMO, are a revolvers best friend.


For cases and primers "I" consider Federal the best for handguns. I have always used the Federal #200 small rifle primer in .357 Mag when shooting magnum loads and use the Federal #150 large pistol in everything. "I" do not use magnum large pistol primers even with H110.
I consider Starline next best followed by Winchester cases and their small pistol primers for the correct application and then Remington. I have also had good results with PMC .38 special cases.


I hope this is of some help to you.

yes sir !!..this is awesome stuff, exactly the type of info to reinforce the decision making processes..
can i ask why about not using the magnum primers even if load data calls for it?..additional heat??..thanks

Gn4hyr said:

yes sir !!..this is awesome stuff, exactly the type of info to reinforce the decision making processes..
can i ask why about not using the magnum primers even if load data calls for it?..additional heat??..thanks

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It is not the primer that does the damage to the gun's metal.
Case pressure and powder flame, are the main things that wear on a revolver.
I don't worry about soft copper jackets.
If they are called for, you have to use them, don't big deal it.

Gn4hyr said:

yes sir !!..this is awesome stuff, exactly the type of info to reinforce the decision making processes..
can i ask why about not using the magnum primers even if load data calls for it?..additional heat??..thanks

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I looked at years and years of chronograph data, unburned powder reports VS clean burning with cases to match and accuracy especially with properly crimped cases on cast bullets and the evidence, as I interpreted it, came down on the side on standard LP primers and more so with Federal #150's. I also noted that loads described as having flyers most always used magnum primers but that could be the shooter as much or more than the primer but, for what it's worth... there it is.

jem102 said:

I looked at years and years of chronograph data, unburned powder reports VS clean burning with cases to match and accuracy especially with properly crimped cases on cast bullets and the evidence, as I interpreted it, came down on the side on standard LP primers and more so with Federal #150's. I also noted that loads described as having flyers most always used magnum primers but that could be the shooter as much or more than the primer but, for what it's worth... there it is.

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It's almost impossible to make all inclusive statements about primer performance unless you've fired many, many benchrested groups rounds at a distance that will truly give you valid results, certainly 25 yards or more.

About twenty years ago, I tested all available American-made small pistol (standard and magnum) with a cast bullet .357 Magnum load using a suitable slow-burning powder. Loads were fired in a 6" Python benchrested at 25 yards. One magnum primer stood out over all other primers for accuracy. The difference was measurable, but not great as I recall.

As I look back on such testing, it really doesn't tell a great deal. Powder charge changes, different revolvers, and many other changeable factors could significantly alter end results.

Pick a primer and work with it. If you have to change primers for whatever reason, a different one may provide identical performance, or it may not. If the latter happens, re-work the load a little to get back to the necessary accuracy level. You will almost assuredly get there.

Also remember you don't HAVE TO push light bullets fast. I have a very nice qualification shoot in .38 special / .357 that uses Berry's plated 125 grain bullets with a modest charge of 231. My old arthritic hands appreciate it, especially on days when I am qualifying with more than one gun.

rockquarry said:

It's almost impossible to make all inclusive statements about primer performance unless you've fired many, many benchrested groups rounds at a distance that will truly give you valid results, certainly 25 yards or more.

About twenty years ago, I tested all available American-made small pistol (standard and magnum) with a cast bullet .357 Magnum load using a suitable slow-burning powder. Loads were fired in a 6" Python benchrested at 25 yards. One magnum primer stood out over all other primers for accuracy. The difference was measurable, but not great as I recall.


As I look back on such testing, it really doesn't tell a great deal. Powder charge changes, different revolvers, and many other changeable factors could significantly alter end results.

Pick a primer and work with it. If you have to change primers for whatever reason, a different one may provide identical performance, or it may not. If the latter happens, re-work the load a little to get back to the necessary accuracy level. You will almost assuredly get there.

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Agree with all your statements. I also did a LOT of bench testing and if you will note I did make an exception for .357 Mag loads where I used the Federal #200 small rifle primer which "I" would consider the same as an SP mag primer. Just my experiences.

Ziti_4445 said:

I wish there was a chain yanking emoji on here... seems to be a deal of it going on..

certain powder types are known for issues, avoid them.

avoid super light bullets and youll be happier even yet.

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I've never understood the attraction to the light bullets unless they provide exceptional accuracy. With their very poor ballistic coefficients, they slow quickly and penetration is not nearly as good as a heavier bullet, namely the weight the cartridge was designed for.

rockquarry said:

I've never understood the attraction to the light bullets unless they provide exceptional accuracy. With their very poor ballistic coefficients, they slow quickly and penetration is not nearly as good as a heavier bullet, namely the weight the cartridge was designed for.

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In an urban environment where carryover is a concern... Those aren't shortcomings, they are features

There are some .38/.357 loads that are known to be go to loads for punching holes in paper. These loads are also very useful for small game hunting, plinking, etc. As well, there are some loads that are known to produce effective service level results using cast lead bullets or jacketed HP or SP bullets. A bit of reading and you will end up noting these particular loads. Use them for your basic beginning steps in handloading. It will help you avoid "reinventing the wheel." Because handloading offers the opportunity to try out a variety of components that might or might not be offered in commercial loads, sooner or later you will end up trying some powders, primers, bullets, and even cases to come up with a load that so well meets a particular need that you will wonder why no domestic producer has reached your particular conclusion. So, you will load and shoot that load knowing that looking high or low you would never find it at any price on a dealers shelves. I have won a vintage military rifle match or two using bits and pieces of left over pistol or shotgun powder, cast lead bullets and a beloved 1903 rifle that looks like it has been drug down a dirt road behind a pickup truck! That wonderful 03 will keep 10 lead bullets inside a 1.7 inch group for about as long as someone wants to keep pulling the trigger. It started out as a practice load. But, at VRM's, it shoots like a match load! Good luck as you enjoy picking and choosing what you need to develop your perfect load! Sincerely. bruce.

Top strap erosion is nothing to worry about. You'll get flame cutting to a point and then it's a non-issue.

The bbl's face and forcing cone on the other hand will give out at the +/- 100,000 round mark using a mix of 38spl target loads up to hot 357mags. The timing will need to be redone at the same time.

As far as primers go, they can indirectly affect erosion due to unburnt powder. A lot of revolver owners change out springs, shim, stone/polish their trigger groups. That's all fine and dandy until you start getting lite strikes or are primer specific to get the revolver to go bang when you hit the loud button.

A chronograph is a beautiful thing:
I test 22lr firearms with it. I use a known lot of ammo +/- 20fps ES's and test firearms with it. If a new/new to me firearm uses that ammo and ES's over 20fps I know that the firearm needs fp/bolt/trigger work. The same thing goes for centerfire firearms/revolvers. If you're getting lite fp hits it will show up when using a chronograph. Lite fp hits ='s inconsistent ignition or more specifically, unburnt powder. The slower the powder or the harder to ignite powder. The more unburnt powder affects not only your target, but you also get more wear from sanding & secondary ignition of that unburnt powder.

I've showed this chicken scratch of a target before. I was playing around with a 686 @ 50yds using 2 different bullets and 2 different powder charges (5.5gr/6.0gr) of the same powder.


Consistency ='s accuracy. And a consistent fp hit is part of that consistency. That may be a fast-burning powder but I use small rifle primers for all my 357mag/9mm & 223 reloading. Those groups were shot in a 686 using small rifle primers.

A 586 bbl with +/- 75,000 rounds shot thru it after a rebuild.


That bbl has had the face set back and forcing cone recut twice before. The lands gave up the ghost finely (drive side rounded/non-drive side still has a sharp edge).

The cylinder on that revolver had steps flame cut into the chambers.


The frame was still good on that 586 so I had a used cylinder and bbl installed on it (4" bbl). I shot it for a while and ended up selling it. Just don't like a 4" bbl'd revolver.

Anyway, the top strap survived on that 586 while the bbl and timing had to be redone twice. Along with another +/- 75,000 rounds after that 2nd rebuild.

99%+ of the bullets I shoot are cast bullets. They ranged from 115gr to 170gr. And were loaded with anything from mild to wild in 28spl and 357mag cases.

I mostly shoot light for caliber cast bullets due to cost. I also purchase powder in 8 lb. kegs based on suitability, availability and cost. There are usually a handful or more powders that will work for a given caliber, though some may/will give better accuracy than others. Some load books note which loads give best accuracy. Pay attention to reasons given for using magnum primers. Some loads are tailored for a certain power factor, but I don't do P+ or maximum loadings.

venomballistics said:

In an urban environment where carryover is a concern... Those aren't shortcomings, they are features

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They are shortcomings...every mention of handgun cartridges is not about concealed carry or self-defense, but some are obsessed with that and are unaware that some folks shoot targets, hunt, etc.

If "carryover" is a big concern, it might be a good idea to learn basic shooting skills. That begins with paper targets.

rockquarry said:

They are shortcomings...every mention of handgun cartridges is not about concealed carry or self-defense, but some are obsessed with that and are unaware that some folks shoot targets, hunt, etc.

If "carryover" is a big concern, it might be a good idea to learn basic shooting skills. That begins with paper targets.

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It is not at all uncommon for a bullet to pass through a target.
what ever remaining weight and velocity it retains after it exits the target still answers to the same mass x velocity squared physics calculation it did when it left the muzzle of the firearm that fired it.
this will give you remaining energy. that is to say, the energy that did nothing to your target.
the lower that figure is, the greater the energy your game animal, or attacker actually absorbed

venomballistics said:

It is not at all uncommon for a bullet to pass through a target.
what ever remaining weight and velocity it retains after it exits the target still answers to the same mass x velocity squared physics calculation it did when it left the muzzle of the firearm that fired it.
this will give you remaining energy. that is to say, the energy that did nothing to your target.
the lower that figure is, the greater the energy your game animal, or attacker actually absorbed

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Textbook material. When you've hunted game, how many many times have you seen an animal drop dead even when the bullet exits? It usually happens if you strike a vital spot. Some shooting skill required.

rockquarry said:

Textbook material. When you've hunted game, how many many times have you seen an animal drop dead even when the bullet exits? It usually happens if you strike a vital spot. Some shooting skill required.

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My usual rifle is sighted in for it's cold shot.
It prints sub MOA groups and I can track its drift across a series of shots as the barrel heats up.
But please do tell me more about range practice

When I hunted in WI farmland, my usual post covered 300 to 600 yard ranges where I'd use a 165 grain 30 cal to hold energy for the fringe.
The tavern banter typically involved tracking ... an issue I seldom had.

venomballistics said:

My usual rifle is sighted in for it's cold shot.
It prints sub MOA groups and I can track its drift across a series of shots as the barrel heats up.
But please do tell me more about range practice

When I hunted in WI farmland, my usual post covered 300 to 600 yard ranges where I'd use a 165 grain 30 cal to hold energy for the fringe.
The tavern banter typically involved tracking ... an issue I seldom had.

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No need to tell you about practice if you do it. I thought we were discussing penetration or lack of it.