Top Break .32 4th model I think

sgtphil1111 · #1 01-22-2020, 01:09 AM

I now own this revolver and have some questions about it. First would this mother of pearl grips be original or aftermarket? Am I correct to assume it’s .32 caliber? It’s not marked anywhere. The revolver spins freely is it possible for me to fix that? Is there any value fixing in it up to fire or will it always just be a wall hanger?

BMur · #2 01-22-2020, 02:10 AM

I'm sure a few of the more advanced .32 Top break collectors will chime in here but I can get you started. It is a .32 centerfire Smith and Wesson that was designed to shoot black powder.

Since there is no caliber marking on the barrel and the last patent date on the top of the barrel is 1889? The gun dates between 1890-1900. A serial number would help date it more accurately if you'd like but it's very likely an antique so it's over 120 years old.

The pearl grip is nice. Looks like it has a chip mid-ships. Can't see the other side but they are likely aftermarket. The visible grip fits very well so it may have been put on by a major distributor in the late 1800's. If the other side is intact then the grips are worth more than the gun.

The guns overall condition appears to be heavy patina. A couple photo's in natural light would help evaluate the finish further.

As far as repairing it? The double action top breaks are not easy to fix. Parts can be found but it really depends on the condition of the mechanism. If it's worn and loose? It's a hard fix. Try using penetrating oil first before you attempt to fix it. Drop the oil down into that bolt hole (cylinder lock up?) also in the hammer slot. See if a lot of rust comes out after working the action gently.

**** Don't dry fire it also. In other words, don't let the hammer slam down against the hammer slot. This is an older gun, dry firing like modern guns is not good on the older guns. Set the hammer down with your thumb.

These guns are also not in high demand and given the condition of yours? I'm not sure I would spend the money or time to fix it. It's up to you how far you want to go with it. If the bore looks like the exterior finish? It's not safe to shoot anyway. If it's a family heirloom? I'd treat it as such and leave it be.

Murph

glowe · #3 01-22-2020, 10:48 AM

The 1889 patent date only appears on a 4th Model. Also, the 4th Model was the last one to have a pinned front sight and the first one to have a oval trigger guard.

The serial number is important for this model, since production started in 1883 and ended in 1909, so both antique and modern guns are in this model category. There were a boatload of them made, about 240,000 of this model made and overall, 327,641 of all models of 32 DA manufactured.

Many collectors honed their repair skills on the little 32 DA, since both original and parts guns are quite inexpensive. There are often parts available on ebay and some found on gunpartscorp.com and other gun parts sites as well. If you are not doing the work yourself, I would hesitate to pay for any repairs. Fist, few gunsmiths will touch these guns and the cost would far exceed the value. You can buy a nice shooter 32 DA for under $200 if you look at gun shows and online gun sites. 32 S&W ammunition is available and works great in these little revolvers. They are very anemic and be careful what you shoot at or you may get bounce back. They might penetrate 1/2" plywood but would only dent a hardwood target.

If it was an heirloom, keep it!! If it has no sentimental value, consider selling it as a parts gun for someone else to fix and go buy a better one.

sgtphil1111 · #4 01-22-2020, 01:21 PM

It is not an heirloom. I was wanting to purchase a Luger from a gentleman and he had three pistol that he was selling all together. Didn’t want to just sell me the Luger. So I am now the owner of this one. The serial number is 216212. Pulling the trigger rotates the cylinder and lines it up properly. The issue with it is it doesn’t lock at all the cylinder just spins freely. I tried spraying the latch and didn’t help. The other side of the grip is in great shape and just the one side had a crack in it. What is the name of the part that locks the cylinder from spinning? Is it a hard piece to change out? My thought is just turn in into a wall hanger. Condition is pretty awful on it and barrel is dark and some pitting. I would like to see if I could fix it though. Just for my entertainment. Would selling the pearl grips be something I could do? And buy the reproduction ones to display it with?

BMur · #5 01-22-2020, 02:55 PM

Definitely Antique serial number range.

The grips are nice. I'm not sure if they are original or not. Either way the gun's condition doesn't help. It's up to you if you want to separate them for sale.

The action issue involves "The bolt" for cylinder lockup. The vast majority of the time it's the spring that actuates the bolt that is the issue. It would require significant dis-assembly to access the bolt and replace the spring.

Which involves, removing the grips so they don't get damaged, removing the main spring, removing the side plate, hammer, punching out the frame pins, removing the trigger guard. All just to access the cylinder bolt.

Once it's evaluated, then comes finding and replacing the spring. It could also be a broken piece inside the mechanism. Most often though it's the spring.

So, again, it's up to you how far you want to go with it or if you want to separate the grips. It's not like you're gonna make a lot of money though on the grips. Pearl grips are out there, folks want $60-$150 for them but often they don't sell. I suppose it depends on timing and where you list them for sale.

You might just try to sell it as a "needs bolt repair" with nice pearl grips. I really don't see much variation in results no matter what you decide regarding monetary differences?

The only real difference here is how much time you want to spend working on it?

Murph

Bobbysixkiller · #6 01-22-2020, 03:21 PM

Just for reference. I bought a 32 hammerless in good firing condition with 85 percent nickel left for 175. I might have over paid a bit.

glowe · #7 01-23-2020, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMur

Definitely Antique serial number range . . .

Nope, the official BATF antique cuttoff date for S&W Double Action (DA) .32 top break revolvers with hammer (serial # below 209,301) Your revolver would have left the factory around 1900-1901. What that means is that you are subject to all BATF regulations for modern firearms, plus any state restrictions that might exist on ownership and/or transfer of modern firearms.

BMur · #8 01-23-2020, 12:02 PM

Oh well,
I guess that doesn’t help Value either on your 32 topbreak. Looks like you have yourself a fixer/ shooter project.

Just one tip on that finish. It will worsen fast in a damp environment (Winter). Even if you oil it, rust is like cancer. Since there is no original finish to worry about I would clean it up some to avoid deep corrosion setting in. Unless you can store it in a dry atmosphere 24/7. Store it with a light layer of grease on it.

I gave my Uncle an old 1889 Remington 12ga shotgun a few years back to hang on his wall in Oregon. It had beautiful Brown soft patina type finish when it left my possession .
He hung it high on the wall in his living room and just left it there. Well, just one winter with 4 ft of snow destroyed the gun!
I went to visit him and bit my tongue when I saw it! Solid rust! I told him before he took it home with him to keep a layer of grease on it due to winter dampness and take it down once in a while to clean it and re-grease it!
Nobody listens so I’d say it’s just about worthless by now!

Murph