Hand Ejector 1896, First Model - Fresh Gun Porn 4 U

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davidj

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Here are some pictures of a First Model Hand Ejector that I recently bought.
01LeftSide.jpg

03RightSide-CylinderOpen.jpg


A lot of the finish is worn off and there are some scratches, but it is in good overall condition with good rifling and markings.
01LeftSide.jpg

04RightSideCloser.jpg


There are TWO unusual features that are present in the First Model. The first is that the cylinder stop is located on the topstrap and engages the cylinder from the top. The stop is hammer-actuated -- when the hammer moves back the stop lifts up. S&W never used a top-mounted cylinder stop again. The last time they had was in the old Model No. 2 (.32 caliber).
12CylinderStop1.jpg

11RecoilShieldDetail.jpg

13CylinderStop2.jpg


Another unusual feature is the use of hardened steel shims to reinforce the cylinder stop notches. According to Jinks' A History of Smith & Wesson, S&W installed hardened steel shims from 1896 until 1908. The practice stopped in 1908 because when S&W began using a new kind of steel for cylinders. (What kind of steel? Why does Jinks never tell us these things...)
06CylinderScroll-SWDetail.jpg

07CylinderYokeCrain.jpg
 
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Very cool! That top mounted cylinder stop is a show stopper! Somewhere in a magazine I think, I saw a training set up to teach how to install those shims in the cylinder notch's, it showed each step in the process, now that was old world craftsmanship! Thanks for shareing.
 
Very nice pictures of their unique mechanics
Makes me want to go home and take some pics of my first year nickel '96!
Is that a Colt ejector rod tip?
 
cgt4570 said:
Is that a Colt ejector rod tip?
Click to expand...

I think it's original S&W, but I'm not sure, and I originally figured it was a replacement.

There were two different styles of ejector rods -- one piece and two piece -- and I believe this is a one piece assembly. On close examination it appears to be part of the same component (as the ejector rod). Actually - does anyone know.
 
Vulcan Bob said:
Somewhere in a magazine I think, I saw a training set up to teach how to install those shims in the cylinder notch's, it showed each step in the process, now that was old world craftsmanship!
Click to expand...

Well - they do include that in Jinks book Smith & Wesson: 1857-1945. They have demo cylinders from the factory that show all 6 steps in the process of peening in the shims. That's where I got the information I put in the post about 1896-1908.
 
I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
 
davidj:

Model 1896's are difficult to find in any condition. I'm lucky to see maybe one or two a year.

I have one just like yours, a 4-1/4" barrel. Mine is nickeled and has the black hard rubber extension grips. It factory lettered as being correct in all details. And believe it or not, mine was originally shipped to New York.

Pictures of my gun and facory letter are at this thread:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...w-32-hand-ejector-1st-model-model-1896-a.html

jsmith
 
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I have two of these that are also pictured in jsmiths thread listed above.
The earliest of the two (1896) also has the extra screw at the top of the sideplate. I don't think they made too many of them with that screw.

These are great guns. I feel fortunate to have the two I have.
They are rather uncommon.
 
Man those first models are funky looking with the old style barrel and forward mounted front sight. Still way cool though! Some day I will find a short barrel shooter grade gun and grab it.
 
what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
Click to expand...

The cylinder is kept in place the same way a modern M&P is, via the cylinder pin. The difference is instead of pushing the cylinder pin out of engagement with the thumb latch, you pull it out of engagement by pulling forward on the ejector rod. The barrel lug wasn't added to Hand Ejectors until the M1902. The "pull forward" latch was also used on the 2nd and 3rd Model Ladysmiths.
 
45Wheelgun said:
I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
Click to expand...

I guess that is really the third unique feature of the third model. The ejector rod and center pin are slightly different from a "modern" S&W revolver. Pulling on the front of the ejector rod pulls the center pin forward:
08CyilinderYokeCrane-Front.jpg


When the center pin is forward, it is no longer engaging the hole in the recoil shield. At that point, nothing is holding the cylinder in place and it can be pushed to the side. If you look in this picture you can see where the center pin has made a curved drag mark on the recoil shield from the action being opened:
11RecoilShieldDetail.jpg


The center pin is in the center of the rachet. It is spring-loaded and moves rearward as soon as the ejector rod is released:
10Chambers-CylinderFace.jpg


The "collector" significance of the HE 1st Model is that it is the first S&W built with a solid frame, and from a developmental point of view it brings together the basic design components of a "modern" S&W revolver. When S&W brought out the second model, the added a thumbpiece cylinder release on the left side. But the only real difference was -- pushing this thumbpiece forward pushed the center pin forward, freeing the cylinder to open to the side. (So the center pin is now pushed from the rear instead of pulled from the front.) S&W then later began using an engagement for the forward end of the ejector rod. This required the center pin to move independent of the ejector rod, but the basic design was still the design that S&W first put forward in the 1st HE. (Pretty cool huh?)
 
jsmith said:
I have one just like yours, a 4-1/4" barrel. Mine is nickeled and has the black hard rubber extension grips. It factory lettered as being correct in all details. And believe it or not, mine was originally shipped to New York.

Pictures of my gun and facory letter are at this thread:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...w-32-hand-ejector-1st-model-model-1896-a.html
Click to expand...

That is a very nice piece. I would love to have one in that nice of a condition. (It's also nice to have one that I can shoot guilt-free...)
 
Pontiaker said:
Man those first models are funky looking with the old style barrel and forward mounted front sight. Still way cool though! Some day I will find a short barrel shooter grade gun and grab it.
Click to expand...

Yeah I love my little 3 !/4 incher. I've actually never fired it for fear of hurting it with smokeless ammo. I'm probably being overly cautious though. I did fire a few rounds though my 4 1/4 incher without any ill effects. I'd love to see one done up as a snubnose. This gun would look great with a 2 inch tube. I like to know if S&W made any like this on special order. It would be a 1896 HE Bicycle gun..how cool would that be!
 
45Wheelgun said:
I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
Click to expand...

You unlock them just like 2nd and 3rd model Ladysmiths - by pulling out on the ejector rod tip.
 
Model 1896

Here is a Model 1896, sn 31xx, a relatively low sn. As you can see it has the 2 piece extractor rod but does not have the 4th side plate screw. It is pictured with a period Ideal No. 1 Reloading tool and period ammo.

DSC_35915374-1.jpg


DSC_36075384.jpg


DSC_36175391.jpg


DSC_36315400.jpg
 
Brush,

Nice gun!

One thing to remember about these is the serial numbers alone do nothing to tell you the date of manufacture. One of mine has a 5 digit serial number and was shipped in 1896 (has the extra screw in the sideplate).
My other one has a 4 digit serial number and was shipped in 1901.
I have the Jinks letter for both revolvers. So the serial numbers are all over the place for these.
The only way to verify DOM is through a Roy Jinks letter.


IMGP2947.jpg



Another interesting thing about these that wasn't mentioned above is that they have a cylinder hold open device. There is a spring inside the yoke somewhere that holds the cylinder open until you physically close it.
 
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twaits:

Shooting modern smokeless powder in these guns will not hurt them. The .32 S&W Long cartridge has been a smokeless powder round for nearly it's entire existence. All the cartridges that were originally black powder loads are loaded to smokeless powder equivalents.

I shoot my Model 1896 with regular factory ammo and reloads. As long as you are not shooting any souped-up reloads, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. The .32 S&W rounds (shorts or longs) are not a very powerful cartridge.

jsmith
 
Very interesting thread. Here is my 1st model. It was my Grandfathers, and I had it for several years before I realized what I had. It has had the ejector knob replaced, my dad lost it one time when he was cleaning it. I haven't shot it for years, but have several times with standard .32s. When I was a kid, about 12 or 13, whenever the folks would go to town, I would take it out and shoot it a couple times. I once shot a sparrow off my Dad's garage roof with it. I'm 70 now and know that was an extremely lucky shot in so many ways. The second shot shows it with three of my Grandmothers husbands pocket watches. She had 5 husbands and outlived them all. My Grandfather died in 1918 from the Spanish flu, at the ripe old age of 35.

smithfirsthandejector.jpg


smithsold.jpg
 
Wundudnee - Nice guns and history. With 5 Grandfathers I'm it looks like you were fortunate to wind up with the 1896 Model as well as the watches. Your Grandmother sounds like quite a gal.
 
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