Trying to understand a Triple Lock I inherited.

Hondo44:
Again, thanks a bunch for taking the time to share your knowledge and resources.

I haven't tried to disassemble the revolver yet, but I suspect it is missing a part. When the cylinder is released it is not restrained at all in swinging out or swinging back as you describe it should be. I will view the videos and if I feel capable I will try to take it apart. I have an extensive background in machine design and construction, so am not too concerned, particularly since you warned me of the 'surprises' a novice can incur. I will let you know how it goes.

Regarding value - that subject's importance to me has diminished markedly since I have established a better understanding of this revolvers place in my families life.

Jim
 
Welcome to the Forum! It seemed you knew more about firearms than the average person, and now I know why. Engineering folks tend to be practical and level-headed.

Of course I would love to own this revolver, and who wouldn't, but I would definitely keep it given the great story and sentimental value!

Can you explain what you mean when you say the cylinder when released is not at all restrained when swinging out and back. This is normal. I think that you think that when released, the yoke will hold the cylinder wherever manually placed, whether all the way open, open half, or a third. This was never the case.

Like I said, if selling, I value at $1,000 to $1,100. However, I would insure this revolver for $1,500 to $2,000.

Given this revolver is not pristine, you NEED to shoot it. Don't forget to give us a range report.
 
u2jimbo said:
Hondo44:
Again, thanks a bunch for taking the time to share your knowledge and resources.

I haven't tried to disassemble the revolver yet, but I suspect it is missing a part. When the cylinder is released it is not restrained at all in swinging out or swinging back as you describe it should be. I will view the videos and if I feel capable I will try to take it apart. I have an extensive background in machine design and construction, so am not too concerned, particularly since you warned me of the 'surprises' a novice can incur. I will let you know how it goes.

Regarding value - that subject's importance to me has diminished markedly since I have established a better understanding of this revolvers place in my families life.

Jim
Click to expand...

Jim,
Here's a potential surprise. The yoke detent plunger and spring were missing, this a fabricated replacement. The original plunger probably went sailing many, many years ago.
 
Last edited:
The spring and plunger in the detent in the yoke may be missing or just rusted or gummed up. A replacement spring can be obtained by disassembling a BIC brand disposable lighter and saving the spring under the flint. The detent can be made from the shank of a drill bit of the correct diameter(and cutting off the 1/2" or so needed still leaves a usable drill bit).
 
Tom, you indicated I could find additional information in Posts #40 & 44.

Where are those located? I am stumbling around looking for them with no success.

Thanks,
Jim
 
u2Jimbo,
I sure enjoyed your visit here, and I think everyone else did too. I hope you decide to visit often, this is a pretty darn good group of people. I'm relatively new here and can't tell you how patient they have been with me. Congratulations on deciding to keep your dad's revolver, no amount of money can ever replace it. Welcome aboard, I hope.
Jeb
 
MRCVS:

OK, I removed the cylinder (in a plastic bag as Hondo44 suggested) and no parts went flying. That's cause there is no pin or spring. Inspecting the yoke assembly it is clear that the detent that is missing should 'stabilize' the cylinder when it is in the fully open position. My previous description sounded like it should hold the cylinder stabile in any open position. Now I see how that is not the case.

By the way, there is a screw located at the forward side of the trigger guard, in the transition radius to the pistol frame and angled up at ~ 45 degrees. Can you tell me what this screw is for?
 
"By the way, there is a screw located at the forward side of the trigger guard, in the transition radius to the pistol frame and angled up at ~ 45 degrees. Can you tell me what this screw is for?"

The screw is just a plug. It retains a small spring and plunger which actuates the cylinder stop (inside the frame), which locks the cylinder in place when the hammer is cocked for firing. S&W used that feature until ca. 1962 when a newer cylinder stop design was adopted.
 
MRCVS:

The last time I shot this pistol was the first time I shot it. I was ~ 14. In fact, I believe it was soon after my dad was given the gun and he wanted to try it out. We put up some paper targets against some telephone pole revetments used to hold dirt for the approach of a country overpass.

The recoil of the pistol surprised the heck out of me even after my dad warned me it was going to buck like a mule. It earned a ton of respect with the first shot! We probed the entry holes in the wood and were not able to find any slugs.

I was always impressed with the trigger action. Pulling the trigger with the hammer uncocked is very smooth requiring very little additional grip pressure as the cylinder advances and the hammer cycles back and releases. The trigger pull is very light when the hammer is cocked. Almost a surprise. My dad told me that was good cause I was less likely to jerk the trigger and miss my target. Made me very cautious.

My original purpose in coming to this forum was to gather info to value the gun, sell it and buy a replacement semi-automatic pistol as a home defense weapon. I know I can't sell it, now. And a salesman at Bass Pro Shop looked at me quizzically when I told him my 'plan'. He questioned whether it was such a good idea to trade simple for complicated. Particularly, this caliber. He was partial to .45's.

So, now I'm keeping the gun. I better go shoot it as you suggest to get an adult perspective on its feel and fitness for purpose...
 
GilaBender:

I found posts #40 & 44. Duh...just click on the link! Sometimes I just make things too complicated. Thanks for the referrals.
 
Jack the Toad:

I just placed my order for the Smith & Wesson Revolvers - A Service Manual. Thanks for the link. While shopping at Brownell's I came across a listing for schematic diagrams. I wanted to get one of those, too, but the inventory of choices was by the guns frame.

That got me thinking. What is the frame designation for my revolver? And what would the formal revolver description be? I can describe it as: Smith & Wesson .44 Special, New Century, Triple Lock, Hand Ejector with 6 ½" barrel but is that the appropriate nomenclature? Plus there is no reference to the frame type...

Anyway, thanks, I have something to read in bed...
 
It would become known as the N frame but that would have been many years later.

I always referred them as a large frame hand ejector or triple lock.
 
gjamison said:
It would become known as the N frame but that would have been many years later.

I always referred them as a large frame hand ejector or triple lock.
Click to expand...

The frame size designations have been around as long as the guns, just not always commonly known.

First # sizes were used.

Then the first factory frame size letter designation began with the first hand ejector model, the I frame for the the ".32 Model of 1896 -1st Model".

The N frame designation began with the design of the .44 Triple Lock, introduced in 1908.

Much more recently when the N frame was introduced in stainless, it became the G frame.
 
Jim,

With your developing interest in your .44, I thought you might find these tidbits interesting:

Here are the 6 fixed sight frame hand ejector serial # locations until ~1956:

1. Gun butt - or forestrap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt

2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud

3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight

4. Extractor star - backside

5. Cylinder - rear face

6. Right stock only - on back; stamped, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material. (except most target grips because individual fitting not required.)

Assembly (factory work) #s:

These multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke at the hinge, in the 'yoke cut' on frame opposite the yoke near the hinge, and inside of the sideplate, for the pre war and early post war period. The assembly # in the yoke cut of the frame was relocated to the left side of grip frame after model #s were assigned and the serial # was added in the 'yoke cut' where the assembly #, now moved to the left side of the grip frame, used to be. You know they are assembly (factory work) #s because of those 3 locations that always match on guns that are original, and that's the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory: still used to this day, long after serial number locations decreased.
 
Hondo44:

Serial #'s
1. Gun butt: 8124
2. Extractor shroud: 8124
3. Yoke: 8124
4. Extractor star: 8124
5. Cylinder: 8124
6. Right stock: top=3; middle=2; bottom=20 (between screw & locating pin). I am guessing they are surface flatness measurements to ensure the grip seats along the frame uniformly - there are horizontal file marks under each number.
7. Left stock: top=8; middle=6; bottom=6

Assembly #'s:
1. Yoke @ hinge: 2028
2. Yoke cut: 1018
3. Inside side plate: 1018 (the demonstration in the video you shared of tapping the grip frame to vibrate the side plate loose worked like a champ!)
 
Jim,

Since all the serial #s match, I'm having difficulty with the non matching assembly # on the yoke. Is it at all possible with magnification that the 2s are actually 1s? Those turn of the century fonts are extremely hard too read. Especially if stamped to hard, 1s can look like 2s!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

paladin42
I need a gunsmith familiar with the New Century Triple Lock
Replies
12
Views
672
paladin42
paladin42
4
Very Early Triple Lock
Replies
3
Views
366
larkworthy
L
G
Triple Lock franken gun
Replies
4
Views
667
gmarshall99
G
EcoCharlieZulu
Please, is this an authentic H.E. Triple Lock?
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
steelslaver
steelslaver
G
19-3 is toast?
Replies
8
Views
839
GraMott
G

Latest posts

Back
Top