Hornady .357 158 Gr XTP Ammo Jams My New 686!
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your ejector rod has probably backed out a tad...tighten it (counterclockwise) should do it
Doug M.
Member
I thought that the change in threading of the ejector rods back in the ... early 60s(?) put a stop to them backing out. This sounds like something else.
kamloops67
Member
what "unlocks" it? or is it still locked up now?
Bruce51
Member
The only time mine locked up was due to the ratchet galling the recoil shield.
I just smoothed the raised metal and the problem never reoccurred.
This was after the modification and had nothing to do with the firing pin bushing.
Look for burrs on the cylinder ratchet and recoil shield.
BLM
I just smoothed the raised metal and the problem never reoccurred.
This was after the modification and had nothing to do with the firing pin bushing.
Look for burrs on the cylinder ratchet and recoil shield.
BLM
Bruce51
Member
Ok which 686 do you have? The 686 no dash was recalled for a firing pin bushing replacement.
If modified a M was stamped into the yoke recess.
I think the 686-1 corrected this problem.
Do you have an unmodified 686 no dash?
Bruce
If modified a M was stamped into the yoke recess.
I think the 686-1 corrected this problem.
Do you have an unmodified 686 no dash?
Bruce
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686-380
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Bruce, I have a 686-6. After the jam occurs, I have to pry the cylinder open. I suspect it has something to do with the round somehow moving the cylinder out, somehow. I'm not a gunsmith, however, so I don't know. I've contacted customer service. Maybe they'll have a solution. Thanks to all who took the time to reply!!!
scooter123
Member
The thought of "prying open the cylinder" just sends shivers up my spine at the damage that could result.
Tip one. If you have a problem don't grab the nearest pry bar, instead use your eyes and look things over closely.
Has the firing pin retracted? If it hasn't, your problem is a pierced primer and simply rocking the cylinder from side to side will usually pop it free. The fix for this is to replace that extended length firing pin with a Factory firing pin or reduce the mainspring energy enough that you don't pierce the primer.
Look at the front of the cylinder. Is one of the bullets projecting out above the front surface of the cylinder? If so that is the cause for your jam. Take a wood dowel and a hammer and GENTLY tap that bullet back into the case so that it's below the front surface of the cylinder. Then open the cylinder and contact Hornady about replacing your defective ammunition. Because a well made 357 Magnum should NOT be jumping the crimp in a revolver as heavy as a 686.
The third issue is a seriously loose ejector rod and you should have noticed problems opening the cylinder LONG before it unscrewed enough to actually "jam" the cylinder. On a 686 this has a LEFT HAND THREAD, so you tighten in by turning it backwards. Anytime a loosened ejector rod is causing problem with opening the cylinder it can be tightened using a thumbnail to "pinch" the knurling and repeatedly cocking and uncocking the hammer to drive the cylinder around. Once the knurling starts grinding down your thumbnail it should be tight enough to allow the cylinder to open properly. Then you should take the revolver home and tighten the ejector rod properly. NOTE, for safeties sake you should shoot off any loaded rounds before any attempt at tightening the ejector rod in the field.
Tip one. If you have a problem don't grab the nearest pry bar, instead use your eyes and look things over closely.
Has the firing pin retracted? If it hasn't, your problem is a pierced primer and simply rocking the cylinder from side to side will usually pop it free. The fix for this is to replace that extended length firing pin with a Factory firing pin or reduce the mainspring energy enough that you don't pierce the primer.
Look at the front of the cylinder. Is one of the bullets projecting out above the front surface of the cylinder? If so that is the cause for your jam. Take a wood dowel and a hammer and GENTLY tap that bullet back into the case so that it's below the front surface of the cylinder. Then open the cylinder and contact Hornady about replacing your defective ammunition. Because a well made 357 Magnum should NOT be jumping the crimp in a revolver as heavy as a 686.
The third issue is a seriously loose ejector rod and you should have noticed problems opening the cylinder LONG before it unscrewed enough to actually "jam" the cylinder. On a 686 this has a LEFT HAND THREAD, so you tighten in by turning it backwards. Anytime a loosened ejector rod is causing problem with opening the cylinder it can be tightened using a thumbnail to "pinch" the knurling and repeatedly cocking and uncocking the hammer to drive the cylinder around. Once the knurling starts grinding down your thumbnail it should be tight enough to allow the cylinder to open properly. Then you should take the revolver home and tighten the ejector rod properly. NOTE, for safeties sake you should shoot off any loaded rounds before any attempt at tightening the ejector rod in the field.
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686-380
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Scooter123, The ejector rod appears tight and the 158 grain bullets don't protrude and look flush with the top of the brass.
The only abnormality that I noticed was the cylinder release is locked in the forward position (when the jam occurs with the 158 grain bullets). You're right, I should have looked closely at the firing pin area. I just might go back out to the range for another try. Thanks for the input...
cocojo
Member
Check for high or raised primers, after firing the primer backs into the firing pin hole. If that's the case the firing pin hole is too big. Raised primers with low pressure rounds will do that. Higher pressure rounds flatten out. Call smith and send it in you should be able to shoot all ammo types. Older 686's had this issue in the eighties.
Fishinfool
Member
Take a good look at the rim thickness of the shells that are tying up the gun, and compare them to those that are not. A couple years ago, I had a problem with factory Federal loads in my 586 that did the same thing. It was cartridge rims that were way out of spec (to thick). Must have been a bad lot, as I have never had that problem with Federal before.
Larry
Larry
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Cocojo and fishinfool - THe primers and rim thickness look O.K., not out of the ordinary.
I will probably go out to the range in the next few days and video a few rounds. I'll try to achieve a close-up after the gun jams, to illustrate exactly what transpires...
Thanks for your input!!
I will probably go out to the range in the next few days and video a few rounds. I'll try to achieve a close-up after the gun jams, to illustrate exactly what transpires...
Thanks for your input!!
buck460XVR
Member
You don't have a thumb on the cylinder release when you are shooting do you? The recoil from the heavier bullets may have you involuntarily pushing it forward when you shoot. Whether or not this is the problem, I don't know, but I see no other way the the release would or could go forward when shooting.
scooter123
Member
One other thought and I really dropped the ball by not thinking of it before is that the internal lock might be self activating. If I remember correctly the -6 is the model with the infamous lock. It's rare with the 686 because it's heavy enough that it can't rotate fast enough under recoil but if the lock was assembled improperly or the spring broke they can lock up the gun. That would be a warranty issue. If it locks up again look to see if the "locked" flag next to the hammer is partially extended. If it is, that is your problem and that's a warranty issue.
Second thought concerns that cylinder release you state was in the forward position. Again something quite rare but a spring may have broken and if in the forward position it will lock up the hammer. The field fix for this is to manually pull the cylinder release to the rear in order to cock the hammer. This is also a warranty issue.
BTW, it's also a good idea to develop a grip that keeps your thumb well away from the cylinder release. Not only will hitting it under recoil cause problems, usually a cylinder opening and dump, but it can also cut your thumb up pretty good. I use the same Thumbs Forward grip on my revolver as I use with my semi's with the support hand thumb against the frame under the cylinder and my strong hand thumb on top of the heel of my support hand thumb.
Second thought concerns that cylinder release you state was in the forward position. Again something quite rare but a spring may have broken and if in the forward position it will lock up the hammer. The field fix for this is to manually pull the cylinder release to the rear in order to cock the hammer. This is also a warranty issue.
BTW, it's also a good idea to develop a grip that keeps your thumb well away from the cylinder release. Not only will hitting it under recoil cause problems, usually a cylinder opening and dump, but it can also cut your thumb up pretty good. I use the same Thumbs Forward grip on my revolver as I use with my semi's with the support hand thumb against the frame under the cylinder and my strong hand thumb on top of the heel of my support hand thumb.
hangnoose
Member
686 locking up
Bullet creep? are the bullets under recoil moving forward in the cases & block the cylinder from moving? Try loading only 1 round when firing.
Bullet creep? are the bullets under recoil moving forward in the cases & block the cylinder from moving? Try loading only 1 round when firing.
flagman1776
Member
After firing, are you holding the trigger all the way back, perchance? If so, examine the primers. Do they have a raised crater locking into the firing pin hole?
At one time, I was carrying really hot loads as my duty ammo in my blue 19... no issues what so ever. When my 66 came in, I switched over... but this load did as I described above. I switched ammo & problem went away. I decided the first loads (I won't mention the brand I think they were but if I'm remembering correctly, they were from a famous specialty maker no longer on the scene).
From my experience in IPSC, lots of guys were running hot loads & using harder rifle primers to stop cratering which would lock the firing pin on revolver or semi-auto.
This probably is not it... as I've heard current factory ammo is more conservative in pressure that the 60's stuff... but this is something else to rule out.
At one time, I was carrying really hot loads as my duty ammo in my blue 19... no issues what so ever. When my 66 came in, I switched over... but this load did as I described above. I switched ammo & problem went away. I decided the first loads (I won't mention the brand I think they were but if I'm remembering correctly, they were from a famous specialty maker no longer on the scene).
From my experience in IPSC, lots of guys were running hot loads & using harder rifle primers to stop cratering which would lock the firing pin on revolver or semi-auto.
This probably is not it... as I've heard current factory ammo is more conservative in pressure that the 60's stuff... but this is something else to rule out.
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