New 686 4" Cylinder play

Laker2004

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Hey guys, new to these forums. Just picked up a brand new 686 with a 4 in barrel. I noticed that the cylinder does not lock up tight. (hammer back, trigger depressed, hammer eased. ) it's not much play, normal with a smith now? trying to educate myself before sending the gun in.

Thanks in advance for a dumb question...
 
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attn laker 2004

Hi Laker, the only dumb questions are the ones not asked...

I'm not a gunsmith, but I check cylinder lockup with an empty gun. I dry fire DA the gun and hold the trigger back fully, which is where it would be with ignition of a chambered round. There is normally no play at this point, as the hand is holding the cylinder ratchet while the bolt is in the corresponding notch.

I do not worry if my gun passes the above informal test. Too many folks stare at their guns and worry needlessly that something is desperately wrong. I would NOT manipulate the cylinder manually from side to side to induce play and wear in order to give myself something to worry about. Some folks do this. Hope I've helped.

OOPS! Forgot. Welcome to the Forum. Always great to have new members. We're here to help. And learn. And ask questions ourselves!
 
Always was normal, nothing new. Some (usually who don't shoot the gun much) people like to find their idea of a "perfect tight gun" but competitors want just a little wiggle so it keeps working when dirty..
 
My 686, when new had what I thought to be excessive (rotational) play. The gun shop guy agreed, and sent it back for repair. When it came back, the ticket said that 'excessive endshake' had been repaired. It was a bit tighter. I don't know what endshake has to do with rotational play though.

I've since seen S&W revolvers that had more play than mine did before the repair, the owners didn't seem to care. It doesn't seem to be very critical to proper functioning.

It's not like a Colt, where if it doesn't lock up tight there is something wrong or badly worn.
 
A little lateral play in the cylinder is normal. The cylinder should lock up just before the hammer reaches the notch (or released in DA) with your thumb slightly holding the cylinder back against the hand. Unlike Colt revolvers, the hand on Smith revolvers does not always tighten the cylinder against the lock. That is by design, in order to avoid stress on the hand as the bullet enters the forcing cone. In my experience, there is no tightening effect half in half of my "collection."
 
I do not worry if my gun passes the above informal test. Too many folks stare at their guns and worry needlessly that something is desperately wrong. I would NOT manipulate the cylinder manually from side to side to induce play and wear in order to give myself something to worry about. Some folks do this.

Lots of wisdom in the above comment. I have been guilty of doing that very thing. Welcome to the forum! It's a great place to spend your spare time.
 
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