Frame size and Trigger Reach

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Hi Folks,

I have a very short trigger finger which has plagued me for 45 years of shooting. There are many handguns I just can't use.

My second handgun was a M28 6" I got new in 1974. As much as I love Smiths, the N frame trigger is just outside of a comfortable reach in dbl action. The J Frame fits my hand great. And I could go a very little bigger and still be good.

So I have my N Frames for playing at the range and J Frames for CCW. I am wanting to get a M686 2.5" L Frame for CCW to get the added 2 rounds. Or a short barreled K Frame for 6 rounds.

There are all kinds of spec's but I have never found any listing from the back of the handgrip to the trigger face, it can be a deal breaker for me. I would rather not spend what it cost for a new L Frame gun to find out a K Frame would be a much better choice.

Any advice I can get regarding fit and feel of the 2 mid sized frames offered by S&W would be appreciated.

Larry

"If it wasn't for the cops, we'd be living in the wild wild west" Charles Barkley
 
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Count me in as interested, very similar situation with my shooting hand...
 
The rear end of K and L frames are identical for the same butt style (round or square). K and L frames use identical grips, and if you want the shortest reach, get something like the Pro Gripper that has the backstrap exposed.

Measuring directly back from the trigger to the grip is not very informative, since your hand is supposed to be positioned high on the grip, not straight back. I ran into a student that tried to hold his hand low so "his finger would go straight" and that makes the reach longer.
 
In my experience, a lot has to do with the style/design of the grip as well as the frame size.

If on an N-frame I use a magna style grip with a Tyler T insert it is easier for double action though with heavy loads it isn't too pleasant.

I've found Smith's newest "target" grips with open back straps, which are basically a lot thinner than what used to be supplied, are more ideal than the older target style grips

I'd suggest that the OP find a LGS or range with rentals where he can "test" gripping the newer K and L frame revolvers. He might be surprised. In an L-frame 2.5 or 3-inch barrels he might with Smiths newest rubber grips find what he's looking for. Those
newer grips somewhat mimic the old Uncle Mike products which so many liked.

Another alternative is the Herrett line of grips which are made more or less to the specifications of a shooter's hand that he submits to the company. Though "custom" the prices are reasonable.
 
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I have the same problem with hand size and a short trigger finger. Look at the 686 Plus Performance Center revolver. The Altamont grips are thin, the finger grooves are sized well for smaller hands, and the backstrap is exposed. I have no problem with a proper grip on it. By comparison, my Model 66 came with Hogue Rubber grips that cover the backstrap, and I had to adjust my grip. I've ordered Altamont round butt combats to put on it when I get it back from repair. K and L frames are the same grip/trigger reach as far as I can tell. It's all about the grips.
 
When I first shot the M28 at the tender age of 21 I hoped that a new set of custom grips would cure the problem I was having. I did the trace out my hand on a piece of paper and sent to Herret. I figure they must have had a good laugh when they saw my fingers and the gun I wanted to shoot :). "Can't do much to help this guy" I imagine them saying.

I do hold the gun as high on the grip as possible and now use open backed Hogue Monogrips. They are thin and I just come up a little short of getting the pad of my index finger flat on the trigger.

It is almost comical how much shorter my index (Trigger) finger is compared to my ring finger. 1/2" shorter. Nice to see I am not alone.

Thanks for all the info so far. I'll keep checking. The more info I get from experienced people. The better decision I'll be able to make.

Larry
 
Larry,

I just measured the difference between my N-frame and K-frame trigger reach as 3/32".

Measured diagonally, roughly in the direction of the trigger finger. Others may come up with different numbers. They have the similar open back Hogues on them. There are far too many variables to take a precise measurement, but I'm not surprised the difference is small. My K-frame does feel only slightly shorter in reach (617 vs 627).

I don't want to start a riot, as I have more S&W's than Rugers, but if short trigger reach is a big deal, you can't beat a GP100 with this grip, which still supports all fingers well (the reviews on the site do not exaggerate the excellence of these grips):

Rubber Grips with Rosewood Inserts Compact-ShopRuger

Not to be confused with similar appearing, but considerably larger, and much more common:

Rubber Grip w/ Rosewood inserts-ShopRuger
 
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Thanks for the measurement Foyt.

3/32 may not sound like much but it very well could be the perfect difference for me.

My first handgun was a Ruger Single Six Convertible which I still shoot regularly. Great gun. But I am pretty hung up on S&W revolvers.

Sounds like the K and L Frames fit similar so I'll have to check on some shops and ranges that rent to see if I can find either a K or L frame and check the fit and feel. Then I will feel better about ordering my next S&W.

Thanks to all for such a quick reply to my question. Nice when I can get years of experience from all over the country in a few minutes. Great forum. I hope to be of help to someone in the future.

Larry
"Live Free or Die"
 
I found that trigger shape makes a big difference in reaching the trigger on the N frames. A custom smith took my target trigger on a 29-2 down to a narrow width and rounded both front edges. Made a huge difference.

Found a 629 snubbie that had the same treatment and the right side was relieved even more. They both feel great. Pics of the 629



Charlie
 
Gorgeous revolver, Charlie. I also have relatively small hands for a man & have had an excellent gun smith do what you did on one of my revs, where the original collectability wasn't important.

Hank M.
 
Thanks Charlie,

As Hank said "Gorgeous revolver"

Fabulous idea. In my semi-retirement,coming up in a couple of years, I plan on making triggers for Tanfoglio Witness single action pistols for short fingered folks like me. Sounding like there are many more out there than I thought. I have a full blown CNC Machine Shop that my son will be taking over and I want to make some gun parts and see if I can sell them.

Time to order a couple of S&W N Frame triggers and see what magic I can do to help us short trigger finger guys and gals.

Love this forum. Many great minds in one place.

Larry
"Live Free or Die"
 
That sounds like a great idea.

Now that there are many reliable and accurate firearms available, the fit to a person's hand is starting to be the most important variable.

Every gun forum is packed with strings about grips.
 
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From what I have seen myself and all of the good tips here, changing grips is step 1. It may be the only thing needed to get a nice fit. But it can only get me so far.
After that it is either a gunsmith dressing up metal parts or making a new part with mods that address the fit issue.
It will be a few weeks before I can get to this N Frame trigger issue. I'll report back when I do.
 
It looks like you've got some great advice. Shaping the trigger combined with different grips would likely make a world of difference. Maybe you could buy another trigger to have the work done on in case you don't like the results.

I am at the other extreme. On my x frame, the trigger is well into my second joint so I have to adjust so the squeeze is on the pad of my finger tip.
 
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