J Frame Trigger job

[jcelect]

J frame springs

But in my estimation, a trigger return spring in the 13 lb range does nothing but help lighten the pull. A too light hammer spring (or God forbid loosening the hammer spring screw) can certainly lead to light primer strikes. You will get other different opinion on this as well.

J frames do not have the main spring tension screw! They use a coil main spring!
Not one post mentioned the most important tool used in lightening the trigger pull! Do not do any work on the trigger unless you have a trigger pull gauge! J frames are the most difficult guns to produce a reliable light trigger pull on! Do not try to lighten the SA pull because the trigger rebound spring is totally compressed in SA and you are pulling against the main spring only. The trigger rebound spring is the only spring you should do any work on!
jcelect
jcelect

 

[Frank usmc]

Thank you all for input.

 

[stansdds]

Best trigger job for a J-frame would be a good cleaning, proper lubrication, and lots of trigger time, both live fire and dry fire. J-frames are made to be defensive revolvers, not precision target revolvers. Messing with the springs can make them unreliable and the last thing one needs on a defensive revolver is to pull the trigger and the primers don't ignite.

 

[much ado]

J Frame Triggers

Bought a S&W 63 earlier this year and the trigger is/was horrible. Ordered a Wolff J frame spring kit and proceeded to install the lightest springs in the kit. The package did not take well. The trigger return was too light. Moved to the next lightest return with the lightest mainspring still installed and that`s about as good as the spring kit can do. No misfires any way shape or form. I have dry fired it many times and notice that when I shift to left-handed that the trigger will not immediately return on about 1 of 8 but I think that is something mechanical rather than the springs. Doesn`t happen right-handed. I picture in my mind that it`s something in the advancing hand/ ratchet process and if I guess even further it`s the ratchet since I would assume the advancing hand does the same job every time. I haven`t marked the cylinder to determine which bore it is as I don`t think anything I or anyone else can do to change that short of a new extractor/ratchet will help. It`s not a conversation that I`m ready to enter in with S&W I guess.
That`s my story and I`m sticking to it .