Revolver notches peening

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

Hello guys,

I am fairly new to revolvers. Bought S&W 627 8 shots scandium cylinder about a year ago and shot about 1000 rounds / dry fired probably 3000 times.

There is now noticable peening on the cylinder notches as you can see on the pics below.

I have read quite a bit since about this, I understand this probably due to some of the revolver components being not 100% perfectly fit and that at some point the wear should stop.

My intutions says however that this is a bad start and that I am eventually have to go through the hassle of having my revolver repaired.

I live in France, basically a third world country when it comes to acquiring and maintaining weapons. Ordering a new cylinder can take up to year....!

Any kind advice on the current state of the cylinder and what I may do to stop the erosion of the notches would be much appreciated, I can post more pics if needed.

Regards,

Wissam

20171205 201521 — imgbb.com

20171205 201428 — imgbb.com

20171205 201428 — imgbb.com

20171205 201428 — imgbb.com

Edit, sorry couldn'nt figure out how to display the pictures here, added links instead

Daver7 · Dec 5, 2017

I'm not seeing the pictures

muddocktor · Dec 5, 2017

Sorry, but your pictures are not showing for me.

EDIT: Embedded your pics for you in post #6 below.

StakeOut · Dec 5, 2017

Welcome to the forums.

I don't see any attached or linked photos

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

Sorry for this, just added links instead for now

muddocktor · Dec 5, 2017

wboustany said:
Hello guys,

I am fairly new to revolvers. Bought S&W 627 8 shots scandium cylinder about a year ago and shot about 1000 rounds / dry fired probably 3000 times.

There is now noticable peening on the cylinder notches as you can see on the pics below.

I have read quite a bit since about this, I understand this probably due to some of the revolver components being not 100% perfectly fit and that at some point the wear should stop.

My intutions says however that this is a bad start and that I am eventually have to go through the hassle of having my revolver repaired.

I live in France, basically a third world country when it comes to acquiring and maintaining weapons. Ordering a new cylinder can take up to year....!

Any kind advice on the current state of the cylinder and what I may do to stop the erosion of the notches would be much appreciated, I can post more pics if needed.

Regards,

Wissam

I figured it out. You didn't use the embed codes at the bottom of the pics. I went ahead and copied them in this post for you.

Jim

muddocktor · Dec 5, 2017

I wish I could give you a hand with your problem, but I have zero experience with titanium cylinders so I really can't even try to hazard a guess on what is happening. But you definitely have some peening going on.

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

Thank you Jim.

Any advice on how dealing with this issue ?

RGVshooter · Dec 5, 2017

I see nothing unusual but normal use

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

RGVshooter said:
I see nothing unusual but normal use

From your experience penning should stop at some point ?

StakeOut · Dec 5, 2017

I think a little bit of smoothing the edges and taking a bit off the thickness of the cylinder stop with a fine arkansas stone will solve the issue.

The sideplate will need to be removed and the interior disassembled to get at the cylinder stop.

There are you tube videos if you don't have S&W revolver disassembly experience and knowledge.

Dorian · Dec 5, 2017

penning

Good day, If you can call S&W and ask if the gun can be sent for inspection, that should be covered under warranty. International number 1-413-781-8300

GCF · Dec 5, 2017

Was this (3000X) RAPID dry, & (1000X) RAPID live fire? If so, as much as I hate to say it, it doesn't look "too bad" - for 4000X. Especially considering a titanium cylinder.

Understand you find it irritating, as it would bother me too.

Others may disagree, but I personally think that "high speed" cylinder revolution - only being stopped by the small (but hard) cylinder bolt slamming into the relatively small notches (even in a steel cylinder), tends to promote peening.

I tend to handle the bulk of my dry, & live fire (for training purposes at least), w/ slow / deliberate action - for this very reason.

Goes without saying that, although replacement parts are "theoretically" available from S&W, the technical expertise required to fit a new cylinder - may not be readily available near your location.

I wonder if S&W would handle this problem, as a warranty?

iPac · Dec 5, 2017

There is definitely peening of the cylinder notches, on the edge that takes the pressure when the cylinder comes to a stop.

I would say this is probably from cycling the action TOO fast with an unfluted cylinder, however this would be a steel cylinder, and yours is whatever, so not sure if same weight.

Due to the lockup design of S&Ws, one cause of this would be cocking the hammer or pulling the trigger like a madman, making the cylinder rotate very fast then coming to a complete stop against the bolt (stop). Unless something about these particular materials makes them weaker, I don't know because modern S&Ws don't interest me to study them enough.

Also due to the design of S&Ws, with their "auto bore alignment", I don't think any "play" that this peening may cause would make it shoot bad, as the cylinder will still self align when fired.

Now if it was on a Colt V spring action, the "play" that peening creates would affect chamber to bore alignment, and eventually repairs would need made, which would be a new cylinder.

Good thing is your gun should have warranty and be taken care of if needed.

Side note, sometimes "peening" or "dragging" will occur in that same location, but it's not from cylinder travel, but rather the bolt (stop) not fully retracting from the notch before cylinder rotation begins. However, that doesn't appear to be what's happening here.

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

Well yes, there no staging of the trigger, mostly rapid double action pulls.

I don't mind pulling the trigger slower if that can help stop the peening. I heard that the peening will eventully stop, that the cylinder notches are currently being in an "ajustment" phase...does that make sense ?

Macinaw · Dec 5, 2017

muddocktor said:
I wish I could give you a hand with your problem, but I have zero experience with titanium cylinders so I really can't even try to hazard a guess on what is happening. But you definitely have some peening going on.

I don't think the 627 has a titanium cylinder.

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

Is a scandium cylinder

Macinaw · Dec 5, 2017

wboustany said:
Is a scandium cylinder

They make scandium frames. They make titanium cylinders. They don't make scandium alloy cylinders.

wboustany · Dec 5, 2017

I stand corrected.

Here's the model I have

PERFORMANCE CENTER(R) Model 627 | Smith & Wesson

Thank you all for your helpful responses. I've got now much better insight on how I should deal with this.

Protocall_Design · Dec 5, 2017

The ramps leading into the notches are cut too shallow. What we are looking at is more tearing off material than peening. When the cylinder is cycled quickly (especially a stainless non fluted one) the rotational inertia and speed is enough that the cylinder stop doesn't have time to drop into the notch and is just catching the corner of the other side. Also, the ramps are off center to the cylinder stop which is causing the stop to hardly go down at all as it comes to the notch. The line on the cylinder needs to be centered in the ramp.

The real solution for this problem is to recut the ramps to the correct angle and depth. This is easily done on a milling machine by a qualified machinist. It can also be done by careful hand filing with a round file. A chainsaw sharpening file would work. I had to do this on one of my 627s that had the exact same problem. It has now worked perfect for thousands of rounds.

Peening never goes away. It is always an issue when shooting fast or just a lot of rounds. The fix for peening is to use a flat ended punch and move the material back where it came from. Do not file it off. I don't like non fluted cylinders because of the problems caused by the heavy weight. Your gun will last longer if you slow down the speed of the cylinder.

Revolver notches peening

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