Do Scandium guns like the M&P 340, 340PD, and 360 suffer from frame cracks like the Airweights?

Do we see as many cracked Scandium frames as other Airweight Aluminum frames without Scandium incorporated in the alloy?

I assume one of the reason for adding Sc to the alloy mix was to strengthen the frames against cracks.

I own 5 of the above: no cracks in any of them. Was not aware the non-scandium aluminum frames were prone to cracking. Again, none here either.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I had a 340PD I purchased in December 2004. I ran less than a box of .357 Magnums through it. I shot many standard and "+P" .38 Special loads through it as it is the firearm I carry during the summer months. Last October, after LEOSA quals, I noted a crack in the frame directly beneath the barrel/forcing cone. I contacted S & W and they requested I forward it back to them. After examining the firearm, they provided me with a new 340PD.

You may wish to do a search here as I think this may have been discussed. I believe that others have experienced similar problems.

HTH.

JPJ

The PC 625-10 had a scandium alloy frame and mine developed a frame crack under the barrel. One of our club members had another one and it cracked in the same spot. It’s a discontinued model and S&W doesn’t have replacement frames, but they did offer to substitute our choice of a different in-stock PC model.

The 625-10 seems more prone to cracking than other models, possibly due to the length of the barrel projecting into the frame window. S&W blames over-torquing at assembly.

__________________
"I also cook."

Right now I have 6 Scandium framed revolvers.

And just like those folk so many years ago that marveled at the innovation of alloy framed 38s, I am thrilled at an advancement that lets me carry a 5" Magnum N-frame that has the weight of a 4" K-frame or a 357 pocket gun that weighs less than me cell phone .

Yes, Scandium alloy frames crack in the same spot that aluminium alloy frames have been cracking for more than half a century now. That risk is the price we pay to save all that weight

That crack is not a catastrophic failure. Once cracked it would still take many, many rounds of ammunition to cause the revolver to become non-functional

When you buy a used alloy or Scandium framed revolver make sure you give it a good inspection before you buy it or better yet buy a new one so that you are assured of having the Smith and Wesson warranty to cover issues like this.

Remember that a Factory warranty only applies to the original purchaser

In the grand vision of lightweight revolvers Scandium is relatively new. I do not think there is enough of a publicly known sampling to be able to say if they crack less or not. Only Smith and Wesson could calculate the facts on that issue as they know how many tens of thousands of light weight revolvers are shipped annually vs. the number of cracks that occur. That percentage of cracks is very low regardless if we are talking aluminium or Scandium

The reason for adding Scandium was to be able to withstand the stretching forces of Magnum cartridges.

I had my 327 Pug Nose crack on me more than a decade ago. I actually noticed it after the first shooting session. Smith and Wesson replaced the firearm and it has been good ever since

I've got (8) Sc framed revolvers currently & so far so good. Their owner might be a little cracked, but not their frames.

.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

I've got a 340MP that I fitted with a titanium cylinder and a 340PD the MP has probably 2000+ rounds through it 75-80% of those have been 357, using the some of the heaviest hitters (even a few Buffalo Bore 180gr) and no cracks..Have shot the living daylights out of it and nothing to shake a stick at yet. If it cracked I'd buy another right away.

I have a M&P with a bunch of .357 through it and never a problem.

I regard the lightweight J frames as deep concealment carry guns not intended for the same level of use as all-steel revolvers. I have shot .357 magnum ammo in my M340 once. That was enough for me. I practice with .38 specials and carry it with .38+P ammo.
But of course, YMMV.

I own a new one with no lock 340 PD and have no cracks 1000 rounds of ball and plus P 38 SPL with 400 rounds. I will say this I did have one crack with a locked 340 PD (lock has nothing to do with it) many years ago 2003. After 50 rds of AE 38 spl above the yoke cracked frame. The reason was I was told from SW that when they pressed BBL in held the switch a little to long and caused it to crack they fix that issue many moons ago from what I understand.

I just bought a 340PD made about when your first one was.

It's been shot, but I don't know how much.

It's tight and seems in good shape, but there is some holster wear with shiny frame corners.

I'm thinking many 340PDs from that era were carried by LEOs as backup weapons and probably not shot a lot.

No cracks, but I'm hoping it will last. Don't expect to be shooting 357 Mag much.

Very good choice Cal44 no you should have no problems look under the bottom of frame were BBL is those cracked 340 PD from back then were coming out of factory already broke not all came like that back in the day. I don't think you will have a problem at all. Remember don't use chemicals that can take off finish of the titanium cylinder. Just search forum about what cleaner to use on cylinder or call Smith about that you can do damage if you use the wrong cleaner on that grey cylinder. GOOD LUCK WITH THAT NEW GEM